Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello guys, I have a question. I bought a Rolls Royce in England and since my wife got a circle, I have to sell, everything is no problem, a buyer has already melted, but the seller wants to have the following. I am supposed to bring the car here through the TüV (no problems) but he wants to steal the car already registered, with license plates etc. The problem is he lives in another federal state, and I can not allow a car to drive their taxes I don’t know how to fix it.

Dear experts, we would like to buy a Austin Healey. Unfortunately, except that it is a cool car, nothing about it. It should be a classic MK II/MK III (or which would you prefer) with spoke rims and everything around it. Who can say where you can get such a car best, which year of construction is the best (Is there actually new editions with BMW engine?), what you should pay attention to, what a good model in about cost etc. pp. I would be grateful for tips and tips. d All kinds of suggestions

Hello I bought an old horn at the Flomarkt today which looks like the Ford t model and also sounds like it. Unfortunately, there is no type designation on it…. Could I legally build it into my car? Could I build it in if it had a type plate but really was of the time?

In the current issue 11/2013 of the AUTO BILD CLASSIC engine oils were tested for classic cars. The result is simply frightening for classic car lovers. Only 4 products are “good”, among them Liqui Moly (www.liqui-moly.de) and ******. What do you think of these results? *** Contribution shortened due to suspicion of self-promotion! – Johnes, MT-Moderation ***

Servus, I have had a BMW E9 2.5 CS Bj.74 for a few days. Unfortunately, the car has never been cared for, neither optically nor technically, but the body is surprisingly well preserved for this series. At the moment, the electrics, the brakes and small maintenance work on the carburettors on the plan. Can you possibly recommend me a dealer/shop where I can buy “priced” parts? According to research on the internet, the quoted prices are very high … Have you got a picture of the BMW uploaded, if desired also gladly more ! Thanks, greeting Maurizio

Hello. The BMW M 535 i has only 185 hp with Kat but without Kat 218 hp (!). That’s a huge difference. – If I buy one now with Kat, then it is enough to exchange the exhaust with Kat for one without Kat or there must also be changes to the motor electronics, so that nothing “mistakes” ? Thank you. Greetings, Thorsten

Hello, I have already tried the SuFu function, but I have not come across an identical question (perhaps overlooked?) I would like to bring a vehicle that is currently registered as a vintage car in Poland (until mid 2022) to Germany and also allow it with H-marks. For the vehicle necessary steps were carried out in Poland: expert opinion, registration of the vehicle as a cultural property in the listed monument (so-called “white card” etc. A vehicle certificate is available. or would foreign (EU) oldtimer papers (certificates) be recognized (at least partially)? It’s about a Lada model from the old Soviet Union production. Thank you in advance!

Hello guys I need your help. I have a classic car (Super Seven) with 2Ltr Ford OHC and 48 IDF double weaver carburetor. When I bought the car, it had to be re-set. But since there are hardly any workshops that can still hire a carburetor, I have read myself the best possible into the matter and tried it. I bought a broadband lambda probe for diagnosis and tried it by Trail & Error until the values as much as possible between The average value, I would type, is 0.9. Apart from the fact that despite the 700kg car the engine still needs its 12-15 liters (I’m afraid this is the 48th weaver), the Sambda probe says that I am 98% of the time in the right range between 0.8 and 1.0. But there are rashes down and up. The rashes are all in the range of 1-2 seconds. Then the value normalizes like The fact that he overgrates for a short time is only begrent tragic in my eyes. The values over 1.0 bother me more. If I step through the gas pedal abruptly between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm, it happens (about 25% of the cases) that the mixture becomes thin for about 1-1.5 seconds according to Lambda probe, then to return to the normal range again, although I leave the foot on the gas. Moreover, he has the tendency, if I take away the gas abruptly between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm, the Lambda jumps Value also likes to be 1.1 times and the engine pastes (easy bangs in the exhaust). I can turn this off by short minimum gas giving. Unfortunately, I find nowhere good clues, which I should correctly change (or do I not have to?). Some say I just have to go down 5 points air correction nozzle so that the mixture generally gets fatter, others say I have to take main nozzle and LKD both 5 points larger. Currently I drive the Kombi 130 / 175. I do not have a full set at Haupt But I buy what I need if I know which direction I need to test. Can someone with some theory help me further?

Moin Oldie Fans! Can someone please tell me how old my Oldheimer must be at least so that I can drive him with a so-called Oldheimer license plate or 07-mark. Thank you!

hello, I’m new here in the forum and wanted to introduce myself briefly before my questions come. am 25, living in leipzig and studying. I am travelling with nem passat 3bg and nem vw t3 bj.86 cs. I plan to expand my driving park for the next summer, or to change and find myself looking for a nice “oldtimer”. my first question also refers to a car that could come into the closer choice for me and I would be happy if m someone could say something about the car with regard to reperture susceptibility, replacement situation, cost for a vehicle in the “daily-driver” condition and everything else worth knowing about the model. the vehicle is the audi coupe s. thanks for the answers…www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx (not now specifically this vehicle, only taken as an example)