Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello, I have already tried the SuFu function, but I have not come across an identical question (perhaps overlooked?) I would like to bring a vehicle that is currently registered as a vintage car in Poland (until mid 2022) to Germany and also allow it with H-marks. For the vehicle necessary steps were carried out in Poland: expert opinion, registration of the vehicle as a cultural property in the listed monument (so-called “white card” etc. A vehicle certificate is available. or would foreign (EU) oldtimer papers (certificates) be recognized (at least partially)? It’s about a Lada model from the old Soviet Union production. Thank you in advance!

Hello guys I need your help. I have a classic car (Super Seven) with 2Ltr Ford OHC and 48 IDF double weaver carburetor. When I bought the car, it had to be re-set. But since there are hardly any workshops that can still hire a carburetor, I have read myself the best possible into the matter and tried it. I bought a broadband lambda probe for diagnosis and tried it by Trail & Error until the values as much as possible between The average value, I would type, is 0.9. Apart from the fact that despite the 700kg car the engine still needs its 12-15 liters (I’m afraid this is the 48th weaver), the Sambda probe says that I am 98% of the time in the right range between 0.8 and 1.0. But there are rashes down and up. The rashes are all in the range of 1-2 seconds. Then the value normalizes like The fact that he overgrates for a short time is only begrent tragic in my eyes. The values over 1.0 bother me more. If I step through the gas pedal abruptly between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm, it happens (about 25% of the cases) that the mixture becomes thin for about 1-1.5 seconds according to Lambda probe, then to return to the normal range again, although I leave the foot on the gas. Moreover, he has the tendency, if I take away the gas abruptly between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm, the Lambda jumps Value also likes to be 1.1 times and the engine pastes (easy bangs in the exhaust). I can turn this off by short minimum gas giving. Unfortunately, I find nowhere good clues, which I should correctly change (or do I not have to?). Some say I just have to go down 5 points air correction nozzle so that the mixture generally gets fatter, others say I have to take main nozzle and LKD both 5 points larger. Currently I drive the Kombi 130 / 175. I do not have a full set at Haupt But I buy what I need if I know which direction I need to test. Can someone with some theory help me further?

Moin Oldie Fans! Can someone please tell me how old my Oldheimer must be at least so that I can drive him with a so-called Oldheimer license plate or 07-mark. Thank you!

hello, I’m new here in the forum and wanted to introduce myself briefly before my questions come. am 25, living in leipzig and studying. I am travelling with nem passat 3bg and nem vw t3 bj.86 cs. I plan to expand my driving park for the next summer, or to change and find myself looking for a nice “oldtimer”. my first question also refers to a car that could come into the closer choice for me and I would be happy if m someone could say something about the car with regard to reperture susceptibility, replacement situation, cost for a vehicle in the “daily-driver” condition and everything else worth knowing about the model. the vehicle is the audi coupe s. thanks for the answers…www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx (not now specifically this vehicle, only taken as an example)

Hello, with my old Volvo I had to repair the ignition, and at first I did not notice, when setting the ignition time, that there is still a fourth ignition angle marking on the engine block. The 0-degree marking is completely hidden and placed by the others. So I had held the 10 degree marking for the 0 degree marking. Now the car is feeling 1000x better than before, 50km/h in the village can now go for example playing with about 5mm gas old, but the ignition time is now estimated (I have to flash it off again without a vacuum hose) at approx. 7.5 degrees too early compared to the factory specifications. Can I leave this safely if I move the car as before almost exclusively in the lower speed range, or can this damage the engine already there? And how can I determine whether and when the engine starts ringing? Do you feel or hear that?

Hello, it’s not really about vintage cars, but the future environmental zones are also a problem for our everyday cars in many cases. For a TV report to be realized shortly, I’m looking for people who could have a problem with the environmental zones for their vehicle. Good would be a W123er (example) without a cat, a Euro-1 standard car (Ford Mondeo, Fiesta etc.) after Euro 1 and an old diesel golf 2. It would be nice if vehicles and holders came from Cologne. rvice-Beitrag in a reputable car magazine show the audience possibilities for keeping their vehicles. Thank you and love greeting Buckeltaunus

I hope I’m right with the restorers. I have a 2005 Opel with which I want to spice up the original aluminiums again. The paint has to go down and here stands a beam cabin around. Which beam material is recommended for a standard aluminium rim?

Allegedly there was a white fleet of Mercedes in 1987 (source: AZ 10 1988).Can anyone tell me what this white fleet was?

Hello together, my father and I are currently restoring our Pilgrim Bulldog BJ1989 and would like to drive on spoke rims in the future. I have a good offer for 17 inch spoke rims from Dayton Wheels with cross spokes. Currently, however, only 14 inch wheels are registered. Does anyone happen to have experience with the registration of such rims with the Bulldog? Information such as maximum load capacity etc. are on the rim. Furthermore, we also need hole circle adapters. Company epytec. Does anyone have some experience? I especially liked that I can configure the adapters there completely free, at a reasonably reasonable price, and you also get a TÜV-certificate. Thanks already and dear greetings Phillip

I would like to change the cranking at an Alfa Romeo Spider 1600 Junior, but I can’t get the gearbox out. I’ve already dismantled everything, tilted the gearbox, etc. But there’s always something on the sheet metal. There’s nothing in the workshop manual except “pull out”. But I can’t pull out straight, because then the switchboard is in the way and lowered, the gearbox is on. Is there any special trick to pull the gearbox out? I’m after 3h with two men with me The only thing I’d think of would be loosening the engine bearings and pushing the engine forward.