Category: Oldtimer Forum

How is that with the very old machines and the lead replacement – necessary or not ? I would now intuitively refuel super gasoline instead of normal, but is lead replacement additionally necessary and there are differences in the middle ones ? Go around a Dixi 3/15 DA 1. Thank you !

Dear Foristi, For a few days I have been the proud owner of a Cadillac DeVille built in 1966. The vehicle only has a mileage of 33,000 miles. Whether the car has driven only little during these 48 years each year or whether there have been years in which it was not moved at all, I cannot say. Can it not be that with this low mileage in the tank, in the transmission oil tank and in the engine oil tank, residues have formed, which are now being flooded when the vehicle is running Is there therefore a risk that such flooded residues will damage the automatic transmission and the engine? Is it not advisable, therefore, to completely expand the engine oil tank and transmission oil tank and to check, if necessary, to clean it? Or is it enough for a simple oil change? WIe can I inspect the tank for any residue? Is there something like a mini camera that can be looked up? Does anyone have experience with a vintage car with such low mileage? maybe just coughing the fleas? Thank you for your efforts

I am looking for a reliable vintage car, which I can use 1-2 times a week for the way to work (about 60 km back and forth (motorway and road)) and sometimes on weekends. My budget is 14,000 €. I don’t care if it’s a diesel or petrol, but the consumption should not be extremely high. Since the car is supposed to serve as a second vehicle, it can also be a bit fun, but at the same time be reliable. with certain models? Thanks for your tips!

Tach together, in Düsseldorf there is no screwdriver workshop where you can park your vehicle (e.g. Bulli in my case) for manageable money and optimize if necessary! Anyway, I found nothing. So I found one – provided there are enough people who show interest. So this is a “market analysis”… I could imagine 10-15 people would have to find themselves together (as a sub-tenant? somehow like that) their car regularly in a workshop with minimum lifting platform and maybe welding machine, which all share – with reservation plan and so, horny! – and for that are ready to pay a certain monthly price. Without lifting platforms hourly fee, everything fixed. So a little equipment and there must be covered parking spaces available. I once looked at Immoscout, with 10 to 15 people it runs out to about 150 euros per month per person.QuESTION: Does anyone have interest? I thought until 01.01.2013 you should get that to run…. VG Falk o

Hi together, yesterday, on the exercise, I meant as a joke, that we should title the desired press article with the title “The Oldtimer Fire Brigade in Use” (in view of the historical age of the two fire brigade transits). So at least one MT article is made of it 🙂

Hello together. I have long wanted to get a truck (pritsche) and to convert it to a home/expedition mobile. Now I have time for this “hobby” and I have come across a stumbling block that could mess up a lot of things for me… I would plan a truck (pritche over 7.5to) as an oldtimer (H-mark) and the construction as a “charge” (to avoid endangering the H-mark) How is that now with journeys abroad? Is it enough for the a Is it necessary to use (cards) tachographs abroad (because of H-marks) at all? Should one then retrofit a digital one? In D one is actually free of it. Vll Additional question: Do one have to let the old FS before something like this again? The conversion would certainly not cost a little. (The penalties might even be much more) Therefore the question. Thanks already in advance. Edit: Should EU as well as non-EU concern.

I have here an Alfa 33, which has a bit of coolant loss (about 250ml on 500km). I have the car now after almost 16 years standing very carefully over 500 km again “began in” The car had a problem because the radiator fan was wrongly wired and pulled only warm air out of the engine room. So it is quite possible that the right cylinder group in the summer in the city traffic became very hot, because he did not get fresh air. RELD CO2 test bought and see it becomes green, which suggests CO2 in the cooling circuit. There is no emulsion in the oil, the oil cover is clean and there are no white clouds from the exhaust. The colleagues (@Diplomat28E and @Go}][{esZorN) here in the forum had advised to let the ZKD be replaced prophylactically with such a low coolant loss, especially since it could also be micro-cracks in the cylinder head or that it has spread. See https://www.motor-talk.de/…lkreisla uf-z-b-reld-t7752126.html?… Now I had informed myself whether K-Seal vlt. could be used to fix the problem. K-Seal’s support reacted surprisingly quickly. They thought that the loss of coolant was so low that they could not assure that K-Seal really got to the point where it was damaged. Either after 10 warm-up and cooling phases K-Seal was successful or the leak was too small. Does anyone have any experience with it? Would you start an attempt like this or do it with it? Replenish cooling fluid until the damage becomes greater.

Hello together Maybe someone can help me. I don’t know anything about vintage cars yet, but would be happy if you have some tips for a driver. I’m looking for a vintage car or maybe even more youngtimer (with potential). I love small and middle-class cars, which come a bit rough. Because Saab 900 in the first generation I find for example great. Unfortunately, there is hardly any under 100hp. Somehow, however, a diesel floats through me. the head, which from me can romp and polish as he wants, as long as he is only reliable. Performance doesn’t matter, but I want to be able to participate in the city traffic normally. (So no Lanz Bulldog )) Honestly, I would even prefer less performance. That’s why the Mercedes Benz 200D 123W came into my mind. Also a VW Golf 1 would be a treat. Maybe you can tell me what you think of these models and which other additional youngtimer you recommend to me. What about the purchase of spare parts? Cost up to 6000Euro. Thank you

Hello together, carry me with the idea to build an NSU TT in the race trim. Do you actually know alternatives to the NSU TT with similar driving performance, size and feeling? Then let’s hear.

Hello! I am French, and I am currently driving a Golf IV TDI 101. I plan to sell it to enjoy a nice SLC. I am still a student, but I will work in a few months (and therefore finally earn money). An old Mercedes has always been my dream. I will see the SLC tomorrow, it should be in a very good condition. It is yellow, has insured 140,000kms, 1974, second hand, only some rust points. Leather, aluminum rims, climate, electric roof (sunroof The V8 runs perfectly, he told me, and he drives the car regularly. He demands 7,600€ for the thing. What do they think about it, is this price correct? Will the car not be too unreliable after the 35 years? Will I not have too many problems? What would a cavity seal cost? I don’t know about mechanics at all, but I am ready to learn. (Since I am French I make mistakes, but would be glad to be corrected to speak German better). Thank you!