Category: Oldtimer Forum

Here is the petition against the compulsory blending of 10% bioethanol and the forced change for the majority of motorists to Super Plus:http://itc.napier.ac.uk/…/view_petition.asp?PetitionID=610 I can only advise everyone to sign up to stop the bullshit.

I hope this is the “right department” for my question. I’ve already researched and found out that the classic car suppliers don’t supply any sheet metal for newer models. The others only had standard parts etc. I’m looking for an outer skirt for Audi A3 (possibly Berlin!? to the need also in all of Germany) About 10 years ago I had a company in B-Schöneberg, which could supply all body parts. Unfortunately, this doesn’t exist anymore. (not AUDI directly!) In advance thanks from one who can prove the opposite that Audi Schweller can not rust. 🙁

Meal, I own a vehicle from 1990, which was built almost unchanged for a total of 30 years. (1976-2006) It is built by the previous owner rims from another/later vehicle of the brand, which I would like to continue driving. The car comes from abroad and on the letter/sale is not as irgedwas in terms of rim size noted or removed ect. Original were 175/70R13 on it, now 185/55R14 also on steel rim. I want to let the combination, rides itself sup i and don’t want to go back to narrower or even hose tires because the original ones were still without hump. My vehicle type was built until 2006, the rims from the successor or its production start was 2005. Now the question counts the year of the vehicle with the 10-year regulation or counts the year until the model was built? Vehicle gets a 21 and 23er acceptance, i.e. the rims fit easily and do not grind anything with any other hole circle or anywhere. or something. Loads are also right and even the roll circumference is loosely in the tolerance. Greetings, Lars

Hello guys, my Healey 3000 BJ8 Bj.66 spins a little. The problem is I drive such a scarce hour completely without props and then at once the speed goes down and it just goes off. After an hour he jumps back on, but goes out again. After 2h you can drive a piece, but then goes out again. Other tomorrow it goes back about 45 min, then end. Have already long a lumenition in it. Yesterday built in a new high-performance ignition coil from Lucas,because the old became so hot, but the same problem. At the ignition coil only nearly7 volts arrive, is that normal? Or lies the problem elsewhere. Would be grateful for any help or idea. Gruss Dany

Hello, I just want to sell my oldtimer and have advertised it. Now I received a request with the request to have a GRA review report made from the page prufdaten.de. I find no information on this page on the net and it also seems a bit strange to me. It also came directly to the request to share the PDF of the result, that I already felt a bit researchy. In addition, this report should cost 14.99€. I can understand of course, that an Inter essent wants to make sure that the vehicle is not stolen or was a total damage, etcpp. That’s all ok. I just don’t know anything about this page and I don’t find any information about it. So before I enter data somewhere, I want to make sure that there is no scam / fraud attempt or phishing behind it. And I don’t know if the inquirer has any connections to help the business model there boost. To request ele reports to 14.99€ seems to me an option … Does anyone know the page? Is that legitimate there? My gut feeling is bad anyway. HG

Hello, my friend is now driving a 89er Trabant. After initial problems with hanging and draught swimmers the car runs quite well. Now I only remembered how I stuck my Trabant on the highway about 3 years ago and had to change the engine. At that time the ADAC man explained to me that the engine lacks lead, because today’s petrol is lead-free. Because my girlfriend now has to drive about 250 km over the highway, I thought if it is advisable i You might be able to get a lead replacement tonight and tip it in. What do you say? Drive 2 clocks with or without lead replacement? Greeting. Dennis

This was a press photo of the first Bertone-BMW from 1960, 2 years later as 3200CS went into production. It differed in some details from the later series car, among others the front flash/fog headlights (perhaps they are only standing lights). Probably Bertone here, as with the rear lights, simply reached into the shelf, and looked for which from the shape to the car. But where did they come from, bwz. in which car they were installed?? In the later series the used by the Borgward P100 – whether this was a happy choice remains to be seen. Maybe one wanted to build something from a German manufacturer (here: Hella). Bertone used the same round lamps for the rear lights that Zagato had chosen for the Lancia Flaminia Sport (manufacturer: Lucas). Here, too, BMW installed the ones from the big Borgward in the series. The round rear lights of the later “02 series” were very similar.

In many forums there is a thread where everyone can adjust their treasures. Is certainly also a good thing in the Oldtimerforum. Then I make the beginning with my Cécile, the Renault 4CV, built in 1961, which was also the last year of the cream cut. Unfortunately, I know little about its history. I bought it in 2012 in the Netherlands. Was well restored a few years ago and is stainless The standard engine with 21 hp has no more, but the 28 hp engine of the Nachf olfgers Dauphine. Here are some pictures

Hello, my grandfather had a construction company in the late ’50s and for a long time I have been dreaming of refurbishing a small truck after a photo template (color, labeling) as it was used in his Frima. At first I thought of a T2 Doka, but I find it relatively expensive, Hanomag F-series or Mercedes had it as well and these are in a usable condition to get cheaper. Optical “new car character” however, he should not get, I find to a construction site driving a certain patina, the smell of wet cement and equipment on the loading area. Is there any more people who do such a thing or am I in danger of being looked at wrong by other classic car fans? Greetings

Hello, have a approx. 30 to 40 years old balenmower with a 2-stroke Aspera / Tecumseh engine. Unfortunately, don’t get it running. There is no spark of ignition available. Is in a very good condition the part. Who knows advice? Can it possibly be that because of the long standing e.g. the capacitor has abandoned the spirit? Ignition coil already probably not. had already the same problem with an Aspera lawnmower. Was also no spark of ignition available. So maybe it was a condenser or rather a contact matter? Are really quite robish motors, at least when they are running. Who knows advice or has a few tips on how to get to the thing? Like e.g. the Zünspule, interrupter contacts or or capacitor check…. I am grateful for any help. Many greetings send ulili