Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello, our T2 Joker motorhome built in 1982 is only registered in the 4 summer months and stands 8 months in winter unmoved. Now the carburetor is resinated and does not do anymore. If I have it cleaned or replaced, how can I prevent resination in the future? Is the only way to prevent resination to drive the bus regularly even in winter? (12 months of meltdugn costs of course the triple)

Hi guys. On my 2 Ltr Ford OHC “Pinto” engine, the previous owner has changed pretty much everything you can imagine. Among other things, my crankcase ventilation ends in a Coke bottle installed in the engine compartment. My workshop said that this was not permitted. The KWE hose had slipped so far into the bottle that the opening was completely tight and the air could not go anywhere. The result was that the engine was quite massively pumping oil from the filling nozzle. I have now burned holes in the bottle so that the air can escape again. But I would like to connect the hose correctly again. Unfortunately I find in the net no useful description, what this should look like with the engine. Do not have anyone I could ask about it. In the net I found that the fumes should be fed into the carburetor and that many carburetors have a connection for it. But on my DGV I see no connection. Can also present me Is the vacuum generated by the cracker harmful? Therefore, my question: Where should the hose be connected? And must in between something like a pressure regulator, oil separator or any other part? Thank you in advance for the help.

Hello, wanted to ask you something about the Young or Oldtimer in general? Ask the question consciously, since I prepare a small work with presentation for the school about the economic efficiency of a (part) restoration of Young or Oldtimer. Unfortunately I do not own a Oldtimer yet, have a 89er Jetta 2 which will be 25 in 3 months and thus finally belong to the Youngtimer. But I ask myself the question, is the restoration or that again make of such a Youngtimer imer/oldtimer economically worthwhile? I also want to include what the new purchase, the maintenance and the subsequent costs of a newer car would entail. So already compared to old against “new” used cars of newer year of construction. Does and drive you a oldtimer because you have fun at the car or because it is better economically? Would I be happy about a few answers from you! P.S. is a small oldtimer fan myself

Hello, have bought us 2 weeks ago a b1000 of 81 ( 353 engine) the problem is, the engine is in my opinion fixed! it can not be turned and the starter tries to start it in vain. it is the 353 engine 3 cylinders, 2-stroke…what can you do there? I already flushed the cylinders with WD40

Hello, a friend of mine and I myself have had very bad experiences with the TÜV regarding chassis number in the last two months, we both did not get the badge for our classic cars, my buddy, because the number was not hit in the car but only on a sheet metal plate. With my old car, the gentleman in the coat did not find the chassis number at all, a look into the operating instructions helped him then. But on the small riveted sign, the last digit is strangely missing, which was taken by the friendly one as an opportunity to deny me the badge, he said that I was going to have trouble with a police check. I have never seen the police check the chassis number during a check. Besides, I received the badge from the same examiner already in 2011 and 2009, he apparently didn’t care about the number. Then I asked, If you want me to do that, the answer is: first use the cardboard letter to determine whether the last digit is there or not and then come over again. But that’s exactly what I won’t do! After exactly 35 years of vehicle owners, mostly of several at the same time, and estimated 25 main investigations exclusively at the TÜV, I will go to the Dekra or the GTÜ in the future.

Does anyone have experience with RapidPrototyping techniques for the production of vintage car spare parts ? So gears, housing parts, small parts … .etc ? made of plastic or metal. There are now enough procedures to produce individual pieces. It should be possible to use it in oldie restorations, or ? Let’s not forget the prices, I would be interested in the process and the possibilities. Above all contact addresses of companies that offer something like this for private people and in d For the readers who can’t do anything with the term: RapidPrototyping means that single pieces can be produced immediately without casting moulds…etc. For example, plastic parts are made of UV hardened synthetic resin by means of 3D laser exposure, or metal powder is melted into solid metal by laser. This results in finished and usable parts. A 3D printer. Advantage: Prototypes can thus be produced without complex mould construction often with full function since also loadable parts can be produced. Cheaper and faster than the classic mould making. Disadvantage: Expensive (probably) for prvat users, only for single pieces and small series. The latter is just right for US 🙂 I am missing e.g. nylon gears from an electric seat adjustment. The procurement from USA for this part is lengthy and not cheap. The part simply to replicate on the computer. The problem is of course Among other things, you have to create a 3D model of the workpiece on the computer. This is not possible for beginners.

Hello Talker, I was made aware by a forum member of a product, which is added to the oil, a kind of ceramic coating in the engine block. I can still remember older advertising shows, in which the guys also used such a product or similar and partly had machines run without oil and water… well.. Advertising just 🙂 I got the broth for my oldie (70s Mustang Coupe V8), but wanted to get ahead ask again if someone has had experiences with it and if so which one. The product is called Ceram-Flow and comes in a small (estimated 250-300 ml) plastic bottle WITHOUT instruction manual. So if someone has experience with this or similar products – please report.

Dear experts, my Datsun 280 ZX from California has to be flooded, because otherwise it does not survive the weather in D. My idea: Doing yourself with Dinitrol ML as a spray can and a cavity probe about 60 cm long, 4 mm diameter. How many cans (500 ml) do I need? At what places do I have to open or drill? Does anyone have a plan for Dinitrol or other manufacturers? Who has collected his own experience in this procedure and can tell me some tips? Alternatively: Who could sowa What costs do I have to reckon with? still what: Beginner’s question: When protecting the underfloor, leave out the silencer 1.) Exhaust paint on the same and after that 2.) Underfloor treatment (Owatrol oil, Brantho Korrux 3 in 1, Dinitrol ) or only 2.) and then apply the omitted 1.)? The exhaust paint can drop 600 degrees Celsius. Thanks for every tip! Pit

Moin, I’m looking for a car next time, which I can drive the next 10-20 years as much as possible. I’m a car ́ler myself, so screwing is no problem. I’m currently driving a Mercedes 190E 2.3 from 1991 in everyday life. However, as I’m going to change soon and extend my work path a bit and I’m going to drive home on the weekend (about 180km), the 190 is too bad for me and he consumes too much of it. I completely renovated it, so it’s too bad for me. I’m looking for a combination with a diesel engine, H-mark and good rust protection. There are certainly enough cars, such as a Mercedes W/S204, but that’s actually too modern and, above all, far too expensive in the insurance, since I’m only 20. An Audi 80 B4 or Audi 100 C4 have already fallen into my eye as Avant with the 1.9 TDI. They are already so old that they get an H-mark and still very economical and comfortable. Since I still have a lot of fun and fun. I had a VW Golf 4 SDI once, which was actually top but I went the soundscape at 100km/h and 3000U/min. Animal on the pointer. I’m looking forward to your suggestions.

Hi together, I’m new here and I signed up because I fell in love with a car. It’s a red VW Karmann Ghia, who leaves me awake in bed at night. But let’s start from the beginning. I’ll be 24 years old soon, I’ve never been the owner of a car, let alone any screwdriver knowledge, have been driving the driver’s license for seven years and regularly drive my parents’ or friends’ cars because I don’t drink alcohol often back from the parties. After my studies I will start my first job and even if I have learned to appreciate the public transport as a student, driving the bus without a student ticket loses my attractiveness. In addition, I would need a bus 40 min and a car 10 min to work. So I looked around for my first own car. I quickly realized that a golf, Corsa and other solid small cars would probably be the most sensible and safe choice as first cars. However, my taste has a If these cars are not met and with car radio, air conditioning or other frills you can not lure me either. Then I looked for something extraordinary. Why not a classic car? Many were not at all in my price range, but then this beautiful red Karmann Ghia came and for four days I think of nothing else. (EZ: 12/1972; 130 TKM; HU/AU: 04/2015 Of course such a classic car also has disadvantages, especially if you don’t make a piece of it with cars. That’s why I have some questions I hope to get answered here: 1. Can you retrofit an airbag into the ghia and with what costs you have to reckon with? 2. How suitable for everyday use is such a classic car? I want to drive to work with it, as I said, but am not the type that rips off hundreds of kilometers every weekend. 3. How vulnerable is the car in winter, with regard to rust etc.? 4. What do I have to calculate for repairs? How expensive are spare parts and there are the noc h? Of course, you may also like to miss out on other things that I may not have taken into account. I am happy about any helpful comment. Thank you very much.