Servus together, I (Jg. 1961) am new here. Therefore short introduction: car-crazy since I can think, unfortunately since 1966 without own car grew up in the family. Therefore I made so early it went the driver’s license and owns since 1979 own cars. Let’s see if I still bring them all together: VW Passat Bj. 75 or so, Peugeot 304, VW 411 Kombi, VW Jetta I, VW Jetta II, VW Passat Limo Bj. 86, Skoda Octavia Bj. 99-the only new car, Citroen C5 I – horny car,if it’s n I was in the workshop, currently Seat Altea XL TDI. My own age, my life and my fin. Situation tell me: if not now a vintage car, when then? Since I can’t do anything myself except tyre, air filter and spark plug change, I already said goodbye to my dream car, a “goddess” (Citroen DS). My current ideas go towards a European saloon of the 60s/70s that is suitable for everyday use. Price max 1000€ (may also whom Before my father died in 1966, we had an Opel record A. That’s why this vehicle is currently the only concrete idea on my otherwise empty wish list. Therefore, my request: can you tell me a few models worth buying from your experience? For me it’s worth buying: robust technology, relatively simple and inexpensive spare parts, no nightmare for my (free) friend. I’m looking forward to receiving answers!
Category: Oldtimer Forum
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First vintage car advice which oldie is the right one for me???
Hello, my name is Vefa and I finally start my training as a motor vehicle mechatronics engineer on 01.08. Now I want to treat myself to this one or the other time. I am a true oldie lover. The problem is not only that I find so many vintage cars pretty and can not decide so much, but also that I unfortunately also don’t have a good overview of the maintenance costs. Of course I find a lot on the Internet (www.autokostencheck.de and google) but basically I need a little help. So my budget for the car is up to 1500€(with or without TÜV and repairs I like to do that forges one together^^ but should still be manageable). I prefer an American car e.g. a Ford Sierra built 1982-1987 V6 approx. 60 hp 2.3l diesel you get after all already for 600-1000€ with TÜV. But the optics and above all equipment does not agree with me. So it should already be at least black or red fabric cover nothing grey or b andes. Better there would be still leather. Otherwise what I always like is a lot of chrome e.g. with the old Mercedes models on the windows and outside the decorative strips that I find really just nice. But I hate Mercedes because of this stupid idea that you put on the handbrake with the foot so that is a total supergau with me everything dies inside. Whatever comes to mind an older Ford sample or Chevrolet Camino^^. Well unfortunately not in my price range. So the Ba Ujahr should simply be up to 1990 with American cars and up to 1985 with European cars (find those from the 90s etc. already strange. But now to the two most important points. First of all the technology: It just has to have a manual transmission, a V6 or even V8 would be fantastic, on PS enough to me already 50-70hp that is enough for me is more the cruiser and not Raser and otherwise a nice grim sound. As second and most important place comes the maintenance. So money is at mi r deficient. I would have about 500-600€ max. monthly available for the car(villeicht still with side job more if I still get something but still look for). I do all the repairs anyway if something still needs to be done or wanted to be done. Otherwise it should be a really simple everyday Youngtimer/Oldtimer. I want to have a car with which I can really drive to vocational school and work every day and where I also have fun driving with it. of course I can insert that I am already used to older models. It should be possible in diesel version e.g. the consumption should be just under 10 liters. Would be nice there 7-8 liters. So I thought about a Trabi too. Because it has always an eye-catching oldtimer look, you can still replace some with chromed parts even though it already has some chrome, it really costs very little in the maintenance(only 500€ annually in Versicheru It consumes only 7-8 liters (with a so-called conversion to the spare set even 6-7 liters), you can install a smaller steering wheel thus you can switch more easily. But Contra reasons would be there for me the circuit and I don’t really like that with the switch grif behind the handlebar, the size would be a problem I am 1.75m tall and a little rounder there are villeicht difficulties, it has a little too little PS with its 26hp there you could but with e in the bigger carburetor a little more out or through the rally engine with around 85hp (which costs then but then also a lot of money) Tüv there is still the possibility for it would not be taken. Otherwise I just thought to myself new tires for 50€ the piece on it, the pile of chrome on it (also the engine compartment should partly painted and have more chrome), chromed wheel caps on it, smaller sport steering wheel on it, leather seats even by black leather changed (sometimes with a saddler pulled out n he has shown me something so sewing own seats is trendy xD), a pearl white painting(finds that the old paint always so funny so dirty somehow) well so few little things still should finally become unique hehe^^. So at the moment there is for me the following selection: 1.choice Ford Sierra 2,3l 65PS V6 engine 2.choice Trabant 601 1l 26 hp What else can you recommend?? -Maximum 500€ monthly in maintenance(lover 300-400€) -beautiful ware V6 or V8 engine or a Merikanisches Auto -Verbrauch bei 6-9Liter -Preis ca.1000€ each € is needed max. 1500€ I am looking forward to an answer already =) Oh yes my personal dream car is of course the Ford Mustang GT year 1969. Of course only a dream until now I have looked on the Internet acceptable cars are already available for 700€ so after the training nice save and then it belongs to me=). But no matter I need a good everyday old / youngtimer that villes me even my whole life accompanied should definitely last a few cents of years.
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Opel Kadett C with LPG ?
Hello ! I have seen at E**Y a B-cadette, which is equipped with 1.1L engine (so carburetor) and an LPG system. Who can tell me where I can have such a thing done and what it costs ? I know this so far only for injections of the newer generation, like my own BMW, which has a gas system. But carburetor, oldtimer and LPG ? Please for your help and experiences !!
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Welding underbody (lead)
Hello, I bought a Pontiac Firebird a few weeks ago and the underbody has a few small holes. Now I can forget about this with the TÜV. My question is now: What best to do? Who had such a problem and how was it solved? What would it cost if I would professionally renew the entire underbody (old sheet metal out, new sheet metal on it)? And who am I going to? Body builder? Can I simply weld sheet metal on it? Can I also harvest it myself? or does the TÜV say what? If so, how do I proceed? Carpets and seats out of the car, flex the underbody from above and weld on new sheets from above? Questions about questions…. they are not scrapped. ^^
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Restoring US car radio: is that worth it?
My car radio (AM+FM+8 track) produces a quiet hum at maximum volume setting, which is still accompanied by a quiet, periodic “plop —- plop”. I can influence this sound with the Balance+Fade regulator, but that’s it. No reception in midwave and VHF. I couldn’t test the 8-track-function, because I don’t have a cassette for it yet. Maybe the mechanics are also in need of overhaul. For around 200Euro you get in the bay (allegedly) to buy outdated or at least functional radios of this kind. Mostly the front is slightly different, but the corresponding parts could be exchanged in order to obtain a 100% original optics. Therefore the question: is it worth a repair of the original radio? What must one plan for an instant setting about? Who knows possibly competent providers? A new radio is not in question for me. I at least want to maintain the original optics.
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Awesome: Opel Kadett LS from 1968
Hello, everybody! Have some advice from you oldtimer experts. I found an old Opel Kadett LS in the barn of a relative. BJ is 10/68, original car letter and co are all still available. The good piece certainly stood for over 25 years in a barn. The vehicle, as it belongs to a Garangenfund, is heavily dusted and superficially dirty, however, the body still seems to be in good condition. Could not look under the vehicle so far However, the engine compartment is completely rust-free. Outside there are only a few `rust pimples ́. Is there still a market for such a vehicle and if so, what can one still get for such a vehicle? Is it still worth putting in such a vehicle on eg mobile or eBay? MfG Stephan
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How, what will protect him from becoming an oldi?
Hello. Have a “new” car. Now I would like to protect it in terms of rust. Especially on the underbody, transverse handlebars, axle carriers, STAbis etc.. Since these always very much like to start gammeln after a short time. Also my brake drum (wheel mount) which is still so nice silver against rust, smudge… protect! How , with what best ? ? ? Would you like to do it all by yourself. OR ,should be affordable Are there separate spraywax or something like that in cans ? Thanks Marc
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Beginner’s Everyday Oldtimer
Hey guys, first of all, don’t be mad at me if I’m doing something wrong, I’m new here. I’m a 17-year-old student. I’m doing my Abi next year and I wanted to start a mechanical engineering study. My hobby is screwing moped-oldtimers and so I’m currently entering my 4th moped. I just say that I’m technically quite talented. Since I don’t like modern cars with the many plastic and I’m getting low speeds, even out of love to the cars, I don’t need a big technical snap and want to identify myself with my car, so that I also have fun at screwing, I search for a vintage car from before 1975 which is as robust, reliable and cheap as possible in the maintenance. I think to buy one now next year and calculate for the purchase up to 6000 Euro. My first love was born the W110 200D from Mercedes. But that is unfortunately too expensive for me. Since I after something soldiem with low underpants. I quickly came to the beetle via the call. However, with more detailed reading and price research, my interest is increasingly removed from the beetle. Afterwards I looked at the cadet B if possible coupé and discovered the days also the Peugeot 404 as very positive, whereby I like the Peugeot much better. My question you know cars which could come into question or have her experience with the longevity or reliability of the cadet and the Peugeot, because he likes how to consider hnt should also be suitable for everyday use. How expensive do you estimate the monthly maintenance costs for a classic car with H-mark? Thanks already once in the previous mfg Simon
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Problems with a spare part? That’s over….
We are able to recreate EVERY part of their vintage car. To do this we only need the part – our technique allows the 1:1 faithful replica at acceptable conditions – write us for further questions ***** mail address away. Interested persons please contact the TE directly via PN. deville73MT-Moderation
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Ignition distributor general questions and adjustment screws
Hello Community, I have been a Mercedes Benz W108 280 SE with 160 HP USA import for a month now. Now I am waiting for my ignition distributor. To my soft skills: I studied Etechnik and am quite capable of handling a wrench, but would not call me “screwer” yet. Since I do this for the first time, and my vehicle will only start working after about 1 minute of ignition keys anyway, I don’t want to do anything wrong, so I may not be able to drive anymore. So please don’t hook around if stupid questions come on my side. My ignition distributor has the identification Bosch 0 231 116 066 JFUR 6 (I read it) 1 .Now I don’t know if the previous owner put the cap original on it or if simply a “suitable” one was taken. Reason: The cap wobbles. On the cap says: 1 235 522 060 Is there somewhere an explosion drawing of this ignition distributor? I found in the inet and unfortunately can’t find it?! 2 . r on the ignition distributor. In the ignition distributor is a hexagonal milling inside, however I do not know how the ignition capacitor should be attached to the ignition distributor? Currently I have fixed the capacitor with a cable connector on the ignition distributor. In my view, the ignition distributor has 3 “fixing screws” A slot screw (so I think you can remove the ignition distributor ) An inner hexagon screw (function unknown) A screw that can be twisted by hand (function unknown) 3. Which screw is responsible for the fact that I can adjust the ignition time by strobe lamp? 4. If I want to expand the ignition distributor (to take photos and simply inspect it), what do I have to bear in mind, so that the car can be reinstalled and the car starts again? As you can see, the ignition distributor is still a mystery for me, but I am quite willing to dominate it. Since I have to note with horror, since the oldtimer owners in my surroundings I hope to be able to meet one or the other screwdriver here. So far from my side from Franco