Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello ! I have seen at E**Y a B-cadette, which is equipped with 1.1L engine (so carburetor) and an LPG system. Who can tell me where I can have such a thing done and what it costs ? I know this so far only for injections of the newer generation, like my own BMW, which has a gas system. But carburetor, oldtimer and LPG ? Please for your help and experiences !!

Hello, I bought a Pontiac Firebird a few weeks ago and the underbody has a few small holes. Now I can forget about this with the TÜV. My question is now: What best to do? Who had such a problem and how was it solved? What would it cost if I would professionally renew the entire underbody (old sheet metal out, new sheet metal on it)? And who am I going to? Body builder? Can I simply weld sheet metal on it? Can I also harvest it myself? or does the TÜV say what? If so, how do I proceed? Carpets and seats out of the car, flex the underbody from above and weld on new sheets from above? Questions about questions…. they are not scrapped. ^^

My car radio (AM+FM+8 track) produces a quiet hum at maximum volume setting, which is still accompanied by a quiet, periodic “plop —- plop”. I can influence this sound with the Balance+Fade regulator, but that’s it. No reception in midwave and VHF. I couldn’t test the 8-track-function, because I don’t have a cassette for it yet. Maybe the mechanics are also in need of overhaul. For around 200Euro you get in the bay (allegedly) to buy outdated or at least functional radios of this kind. Mostly the front is slightly different, but the corresponding parts could be exchanged in order to obtain a 100% original optics. Therefore the question: is it worth a repair of the original radio? What must one plan for an instant setting about? Who knows possibly competent providers? A new radio is not in question for me. I at least want to maintain the original optics.

Hello, everybody! Have some advice from you oldtimer experts. I found an old Opel Kadett LS in the barn of a relative. BJ is 10/68, original car letter and co are all still available. The good piece certainly stood for over 25 years in a barn. The vehicle, as it belongs to a Garangenfund, is heavily dusted and superficially dirty, however, the body still seems to be in good condition. Could not look under the vehicle so far However, the engine compartment is completely rust-free. Outside there are only a few `rust pimples ́. Is there still a market for such a vehicle and if so, what can one still get for such a vehicle? Is it still worth putting in such a vehicle on eg mobile or eBay? MfG Stephan

Hello. Have a “new” car. Now I would like to protect it in terms of rust. Especially on the underbody, transverse handlebars, axle carriers, STAbis etc.. Since these always very much like to start gammeln after a short time. Also my brake drum (wheel mount) which is still so nice silver against rust, smudge… protect! How , with what best ? ? ? Would you like to do it all by yourself. OR ,should be affordable Are there separate spraywax or something like that in cans ? Thanks Marc

Hey guys, first of all, don’t be mad at me if I’m doing something wrong, I’m new here. I’m a 17-year-old student. I’m doing my Abi next year and I wanted to start a mechanical engineering study. My hobby is screwing moped-oldtimers and so I’m currently entering my 4th moped. I just say that I’m technically quite talented. Since I don’t like modern cars with the many plastic and I’m getting low speeds, even out of love to the cars, I don’t need a big technical snap and want to identify myself with my car, so that I also have fun at screwing, I search for a vintage car from before 1975 which is as robust, reliable and cheap as possible in the maintenance. I think to buy one now next year and calculate for the purchase up to 6000 Euro. My first love was born the W110 200D from Mercedes. But that is unfortunately too expensive for me. Since I after something soldiem with low underpants. I quickly came to the beetle via the call. However, with more detailed reading and price research, my interest is increasingly removed from the beetle. Afterwards I looked at the cadet B if possible coupé and discovered the days also the Peugeot 404 as very positive, whereby I like the Peugeot much better. My question you know cars which could come into question or have her experience with the longevity or reliability of the cadet and the Peugeot, because he likes how to consider hnt should also be suitable for everyday use. How expensive do you estimate the monthly maintenance costs for a classic car with H-mark? Thanks already once in the previous mfg Simon

We are able to recreate EVERY part of their vintage car. To do this we only need the part – our technique allows the 1:1 faithful replica at acceptable conditions – write us for further questions ***** mail address away. Interested persons please contact the TE directly via PN. deville73MT-Moderation

Hello Community, I have been a Mercedes Benz W108 280 SE with 160 HP USA import for a month now. Now I am waiting for my ignition distributor. To my soft skills: I studied Etechnik and am quite capable of handling a wrench, but would not call me “screwer” yet. Since I do this for the first time, and my vehicle will only start working after about 1 minute of ignition keys anyway, I don’t want to do anything wrong, so I may not be able to drive anymore. So please don’t hook around if stupid questions come on my side. My ignition distributor has the identification Bosch 0 231 116 066 JFUR 6 (I read it) 1 .Now I don’t know if the previous owner put the cap original on it or if simply a “suitable” one was taken. Reason: The cap wobbles. On the cap says: 1 235 522 060 Is there somewhere an explosion drawing of this ignition distributor? I found in the inet and unfortunately can’t find it?! 2 . r on the ignition distributor. In the ignition distributor is a hexagonal milling inside, however I do not know how the ignition capacitor should be attached to the ignition distributor? Currently I have fixed the capacitor with a cable connector on the ignition distributor. In my view, the ignition distributor has 3 “fixing screws” A slot screw (so I think you can remove the ignition distributor ) An inner hexagon screw (function unknown) A screw that can be twisted by hand (function unknown) 3. Which screw is responsible for the fact that I can adjust the ignition time by strobe lamp? 4. If I want to expand the ignition distributor (to take photos and simply inspect it), what do I have to bear in mind, so that the car can be reinstalled and the car starts again? As you can see, the ignition distributor is still a mystery for me, but I am quite willing to dominate it. Since I have to note with horror, since the oldtimer owners in my surroundings I hope to be able to meet one or the other screwdriver here. So far from my side from Franco

Hello guys. I have an oldtimer and I was advised to add a broadband lambda indicator to me for carburettor tuning. However, since I have no room for the screw in the engine compartment after merging the cylinders and the further strand runs outside the car (I have sidepipes), the probe would be like a fungus on the pipe. This makes the probe sensitive to shocks and also looks good. Can I save myself the drilling in the exhaust somehow and the values a measuring at the end of the exhaust? Maybe you can build a small pipe into which you install the probe and which you can insert (about 15 cm) into the tailpipe. Does this work? Or are the values at this point no longer (reliable) measurable? If the TÜV makes the exhaust gas control, it also measures on the exhaust, right? With carburetor engines without cat there is no “before” and “behind”. I searched the net and in the forum, but found no really usable information.

Hello together, I just joined and am looking forward to the community. I also have a question, I drive a Mercedes Benz W108 280 SE year 1969. Now yesterday at an exit the petrol pump failed to me, it is the pump with the 3 connections, one tank supply line, one tank return line and one injection pump. So now to my question. Since this pump is not quite cheap and I had problems with it several times, I wanted to inform myself briefly. n, if there is an alternative pump to have for a small price? What do you have to consider in general? Thank you for your support 🙂