Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello guys. I have an oldtimer and I was advised to add a broadband lambda indicator to me for carburettor tuning. However, since I have no room for the screw in the engine compartment after merging the cylinders and the further strand runs outside the car (I have sidepipes), the probe would be like a fungus on the pipe. This makes the probe sensitive to shocks and also looks good. Can I save myself the drilling in the exhaust somehow and the values a measuring at the end of the exhaust? Maybe you can build a small pipe into which you install the probe and which you can insert (about 15 cm) into the tailpipe. Does this work? Or are the values at this point no longer (reliable) measurable? If the TÜV makes the exhaust gas control, it also measures on the exhaust, right? With carburetor engines without cat there is no “before” and “behind”. I searched the net and in the forum, but found no really usable information.

Hello together, I just joined and am looking forward to the community. I also have a question, I drive a Mercedes Benz W108 280 SE year 1969. Now yesterday at an exit the petrol pump failed to me, it is the pump with the 3 connections, one tank supply line, one tank return line and one injection pump. So now to my question. Since this pump is not quite cheap and I had problems with it several times, I wanted to inform myself briefly. n, if there is an alternative pump to have for a small price? What do you have to consider in general? Thank you for your support 🙂

Hi, everybody, I’m currently managing my late father’s estate. This includes a vehicle that my grandfather assembled in his own direction at the end of the 1950s, nickname Max. It consists of parts of different manufacturers. The body is e.g. from a VW bus, the engine of Opel, the axles are from Ford as far as I know. The car has been standing for about 40 years in a garage. In addition to its own construction character is still interesting that the car is My grandfather was on a big tour with his family, roughly around the Mediterranean. Now to my question, does anyone know a museum that would be interested in such a vehicle? Here are some pictures to get an impression. (Sorry, the space conditions at the location of the car were very cramped)https://www.dropbox.com/sh/f0w6qmbmnphc3jp/qvTRPrQgDm Greeting geiberdyne

My classic isn’t a classic for most people yet, but for me, it’s a kind of dream car – the centennial in my signature. Unfortunately, the cart has a series of mistakes. I’m with friends that a new mistake appears at every start. That’s what the cart remembers and pulls me over it today – by not starting it. Something like that happens, but this relationship is soon no longer a friendly one. I’ve had several classics in my life that often move in everyday life. The whole quartet, with family, house and boat, there is simply more, which absorbs time and energy, and I just don’t have the joy of eternal repairing anymore. On top of that, if you define your classics yourself, you don’t invest in rolling value retention, but just falsifies values. I don’t get my money back. What makes the decision “when to give up?” actually harder, because whether the car is in good or bad condition does not make the big bottom So, how do you do that? Are you enjoying driving, watching and enjoying balances with the need for car care, or are you still enjoying screwing? When is it enough? Is there a threshold from when you no longer want to invest money in a car? How do you do that? I’m usually the owner of a car, and it’s easier to shoot off a vehicle…I’m sure it’s idR. of the TÜV for me.

Hello, I am the owner of a Ford Spartan BJ 1977, which was previously registered in England, I have the V5 document and Mot-certificates. The Spartan is a so-called kit car on the basis of a Ford Cortina MK4. Now my local TÜV means the vehicle can not be registered in Germany, because although a required data sheet about the Ford Cortina exists, I also have to provide data about the caroze (GRP and aluminium) about break resistance, fire resistance and the like. However, I have already seen 2 x vehicles of the same type and registered in Germany! Who has information about this or can help to get the report according to §21 and thus a registration?

Moin Meister(s) , recently I stored my car in the underground garage with me in the house for an indefinite time , built 2006 Porsche 911. What I have to pay attention , what should I do and which spare parts should be organized now . The plan is to keep the car the most possible , so that I can still do with 80 injection drives . What has been done so far is to disconnect the battery , stand wedges under , windows a gap on and a microfiber fabric ceiling above . Would m I look forward to any advice, suggestions and follow questions

Hello. I have here a W124 250D EZ 04/1991, which I would like to drive this year as a youngtimer with H-approval as second car for fine weather also with season marks. Annual driving performance certainly loose under 10,000km. The car is currently “restored” (welding work WHA, Schweller, KF) Two first cars are available, also an SF discount from the motorcycle with SF15 is available. The H-certificate has to be done first:Do I need a value report for the H-certificate / insurance and a State note, or does that always belong to it anyway, or do I have to say the extra that I need that ? Personally for me I do not need a state note, it is also not a car of special value, rather a normal 250D with little equipment (metallic varnish, ATA, eSSHD, ZV, SHZ, fabric Karo black, Becker Europa2000, armrest, 5G manual transmission) With the WGV my other car is covered, there I need a state note, with the other probably also. There is no such thing with Youngtimer Insurance? Where I do the H-certification, I don’t know yet, but probably it won’t be that you can do it in a workshop that also does the normal HU, or ? The H-certification should also not cause unnecessary costs for expensive value assessments, but only cover the required for an H-certification. Thank you very much Greeting Jack

I am in possession of an FK1250 (firearm), BJ 1964, in original condition, incl. equipment, but without pump (ex Magirus). The vehicle is in operation and registered all year round. Running performance only 13tkm. I used the FW only as advertising carrier, but is absolutely suitable for everyday use. Furthermore, I am in possession of many parts from a slaughter, e.g. doors, engine, transmission, steering parts … Unfortunately I lack the time and space and I have to take care of both the vehicle and the part 🙁 If you are interested, please contact me, no scrap, no slaughter vehicle! Greetings Dieter

Normally I leave my car in idle mode every 15/30 days, in the following form: ten-twenty minutes until the temperature reaches 60 to 80 degrees and first slowly 900 rpm until then until the 2000 stepwise and slowly down again. The car stands outside but with a car cover and rides it rarely in winter. Is this procedure “empty run” suitable or just bad ?? For your experience and advice you would be danbar, greet from Spain/Spa nienland p.s. VOLVO 240 / 1980

Hello, I drive a 1957 pontoon 190 and have the following problem: after the carburetting (completely disassembly and clean) the car ran quite well again. Before, the seal to the float chamber was damaged. At the first bigger exit I then accelerated to 130KM/H. After that the engine almost did not run at all and only had to be brought home with pulled Choke. Later I unscrewed the idle nozzle and cleaned – although I nic It can really say that it had been clogged. The engine runs through again at the moment in idle, but very unevenly. When giving gas in the stand, the rucksack is detected during the ride, because the engine shakes irregularly. If the engine runs in idle, one hears a slight irregular patching in the carburettor. I also sprayed the entire intake tract and also the carburettor with petrol to exclude possible side air. When accelerating in the stand it can sometimes be n that he throws a flame out of the carburetor – but not excessive. During the ride he smoothly accepts gas. I am at the end with my Latin and would be grateful for help. Greetings