Category: Oldtimer Forum

Hello everyone, I bought a replica of the 356 Porsche Speedster from CMC Classic Motor Carriage, Florida, USA, and imported it from the USA last year. I would like to send it now by the full acceptance and am therefore looking for someone who has already done this with a replica of CMC. A letter copy or similar would be awesome and would certainly make the whole action much easier for me! So, if one of the worthy oldi or replica friends (or both) has already brought something like this behind you or drives such a car or knows who did it or drives such a car… To make it short: I would be very happy about any support and of course take over the costs! Oh yes: my title knows him as a 356 speedster with year of construction 1957… Ok, wouldn’t be possible here anyway, but the ground group is Bj 1973/74. But please don’t all answer at the same time now, otherwise the forum is like the lame for hours!!!! Greetings from the north Marco

Hello dear forum, I am very interested in JDM cars from the 80 ~ 2000s. Some of these cars are becoming classic cars with this decade and demand is increasing over time. The prices are already very high and the longer I wait, the worse it gets. I don’t have the financial means to buy a complete car, but this way would be the most boring for me anyway, because I want to screw and indeed a lot! I’m tempted by the idea of buying a car completely s To assemble and finally have a beautiful Japanese classic car that is as close to the original as possible. My knowledge of cars is minimal, but I have the will and willingness to learn to do this. I want to start looking for parts soon. Do you have tips on how to do this best? Best regards and thanks in advance!

A question about the key no. 0098 in field 14.1 of the approval. I was recently with 2 classic Citroën BX for examination according to paragraph 23. Both passed these with bravour and can now call themselves oldtimers. In the test protocols both – a petrol and a diesel – for the field 14.1 the Emmision class 0098 was entered. What does this mean in the case that such a vehicle with H-marks for example from a new owner should receive a “normal” approval again. Hi The reason for this would be for example a season registration, which a holder prefers. For example, with my current registration marks, it is no longer possible to accommodate the numbers of the season registration in addition to the “H”. My desired registration marks are simply too full with 3+2 letters + 2 digits for the variant “H”+”season. An acquaintance is of the opinion, with a then again “normal” registration there are huge problems with the new determination of the emmision class – up to to bring about Thank you for your shared knowledge/experience.

Hello, I’m not sure how to start, as this is my first thread, which is why I’m asking my question directly. Which car or vintage car would you recommend me to restore as a beginner? I’m currently 15 years young and will be 16 at the end of the month. I was already interested in the mechanics of the car at a small age and I’m so to speak car crazy. Unfortunately, I could never screw myself on vehicles because I live in the beautiful capital Berlin and neither Gara I don’t know where to go with the said car since you can’t find anything in Berlin anymore. Maybe one of you also has an idea for this. My parents would support me in the project if I were to make the start or a burst at which I could screw in peace. On the subject of car again I’m a big fan of the old Daimler and think about the cars of the R107 in turn. Financially, there would be no problems because I’m already small enough to spare a lot of time to realize this dream of a vintage car. I’m open to tips and suggestions.

Hello, are there Japanese classic cars and youngtimers from the late 80s and early 90s, which are technically and economically suitable for everyday use? By technical everyday use I understand that they do not consume too much fuel, have an acceptable braking force, have sufficient rust protection and have ABS and a driver airbag as possible. By economic everyday use I understand that the car can be repaired cost-effectively and sufficient replacements I would like to thank the rapporteur for his excellent report.

Hi guys, I exposed the two rust spots on my restoration object (Fiat spider) today and I wonder if this really needs to be welded or glass fiber spatula would do it too.. and especially a little longer term. Should a summer vehicle be and will usually also stand in garage. The holes are maximum 7-8mm. The place is stupid because you don’t come from behind. What do you think?

I’m new to this forum and I’m looking forward to sharing information with you. Since I can call a Jensen Healey MK 2 Bj. 74 my own and some repairs still stand out, I would be very happy about expert tips and hints. Although I have already found some spare parts sources on my own, these are mostly located in GB and a transport from the island to Germany, here will agree English lovers, i This is why I hope that you can continue to help me and maybe write to me which parts of other manufacturers are identical to each other. Since the engine comes from Lotus, there are perhaps some who already know this problem. I am looking for an oil filter. The currently installed one was produced by the manufacturer “WIX” and is called Dana 51 307. Does anyone know where I can get this oil filter in Germany or which manufacturer can build an oil filter? I am grateful for any information.

Hello Together, To the info: Quotation: Are extra-sharp rules threatening the award of H-marks for young cars? A secret amendment to the working instruction for the award of H-certificates for test engineers and officially recognized experts is intended to reverse previous principles, for example for tuned oldtimers: “When assessing the vehicle condition, the age, frequency, purpose and originality are to be taken into account”, stands there in prominent place. rough design was formulated by a working group in which the large German testing organisations are also represented. He is currently in the Federal Ministry of Transport for examination – and he is present at AUTO BILD KLASSIK. The criteria “age” and “frequency” contained therein allow examiners to apply particularly strict standards to the condition according to the wording after the future for the first time, in young or popular classics such as Mazda MX-5, Mercedes W 123 and W 201 – and even with bleaching Hat racks or colour nuances in the paint to refuse a positive report, even if the vehicles have otherwise survived the critical “consumer car years” largely unharmed and are already in collector’s hands. Source(s) and whole(s) Article: Greeting -dodo-

Hello, I recently had an accident with my oldtimer and am now looking for a workshop that can professionally and cost-effectively repair the damage to me. I myself live in the Netherlands but because of the low wage costs I can imagine to have the damage done in Romania. The costs were estimated in NL to 10k Euro. On the Internet I passed through contributions from the mirror and Fifth Gear to the company Oldtimer Studio near Bucharest, but can unfortunately not find further references to this company. Has any of you had any experience with this company? If so, what can you say about their reliability and quality and would you recommend this company? Are their restorations really as high-quality as they claim to be? After all, in the Fith Gear video we talk about the fact that many of the cars come the Oldtimer Studio restored from Germany, Italy, Uk etc. I am naturally a little worried about the removal. Thanks and lots of guesses.

I want to buy a new vintage car and my two favorites are Ford Taunus 12m P4 and Opel Kadett A. Both are the same from the motorization, I think the space will be quite the same and both I like the design very much. I would like to ask you which dare you, as that should become my everyday car in the summer. Lg your vintage car newcomer93