Category: Oldtimer Forum

A question about the key no. 0098 in field 14.1 of the approval. I was recently with 2 classic Citroën BX for examination according to paragraph 23. Both passed these with bravour and can now call themselves oldtimers. In the test protocols both – a petrol and a diesel – for the field 14.1 the Emmision class 0098 was entered. What does this mean in the case that such a vehicle with H-marks for example from a new owner should receive a “normal” approval again. Hi The reason for this would be for example a season registration, which a holder prefers. For example, with my current registration marks, it is no longer possible to accommodate the numbers of the season registration in addition to the “H”. My desired registration marks are simply too full with 3+2 letters + 2 digits for the variant “H”+”season. An acquaintance is of the opinion, with a then again “normal” registration there are huge problems with the new determination of the emmision class – up to to bring about Thank you for your shared knowledge/experience.

Hello, I’m not sure how to start, as this is my first thread, which is why I’m asking my question directly. Which car or vintage car would you recommend me to restore as a beginner? I’m currently 15 years young and will be 16 at the end of the month. I was already interested in the mechanics of the car at a small age and I’m so to speak car crazy. Unfortunately, I could never screw myself on vehicles because I live in the beautiful capital Berlin and neither Gara I don’t know where to go with the said car since you can’t find anything in Berlin anymore. Maybe one of you also has an idea for this. My parents would support me in the project if I were to make the start or a burst at which I could screw in peace. On the subject of car again I’m a big fan of the old Daimler and think about the cars of the R107 in turn. Financially, there would be no problems because I’m already small enough to spare a lot of time to realize this dream of a vintage car. I’m open to tips and suggestions.

Hello, are there Japanese classic cars and youngtimers from the late 80s and early 90s, which are technically and economically suitable for everyday use? By technical everyday use I understand that they do not consume too much fuel, have an acceptable braking force, have sufficient rust protection and have ABS and a driver airbag as possible. By economic everyday use I understand that the car can be repaired cost-effectively and sufficient replacements I would like to thank the rapporteur for his excellent report.

Hi guys, I exposed the two rust spots on my restoration object (Fiat spider) today and I wonder if this really needs to be welded or glass fiber spatula would do it too.. and especially a little longer term. Should a summer vehicle be and will usually also stand in garage. The holes are maximum 7-8mm. The place is stupid because you don’t come from behind. What do you think?

I’m new to this forum and I’m looking forward to sharing information with you. Since I can call a Jensen Healey MK 2 Bj. 74 my own and some repairs still stand out, I would be very happy about expert tips and hints. Although I have already found some spare parts sources on my own, these are mostly located in GB and a transport from the island to Germany, here will agree English lovers, i This is why I hope that you can continue to help me and maybe write to me which parts of other manufacturers are identical to each other. Since the engine comes from Lotus, there are perhaps some who already know this problem. I am looking for an oil filter. The currently installed one was produced by the manufacturer “WIX” and is called Dana 51 307. Does anyone know where I can get this oil filter in Germany or which manufacturer can build an oil filter? I am grateful for any information.

Hello Together, To the info: Quotation: Are extra-sharp rules threatening the award of H-marks for young cars? A secret amendment to the working instruction for the award of H-certificates for test engineers and officially recognized experts is intended to reverse previous principles, for example for tuned oldtimers: “When assessing the vehicle condition, the age, frequency, purpose and originality are to be taken into account”, stands there in prominent place. rough design was formulated by a working group in which the large German testing organisations are also represented. He is currently in the Federal Ministry of Transport for examination – and he is present at AUTO BILD KLASSIK. The criteria “age” and “frequency” contained therein allow examiners to apply particularly strict standards to the condition according to the wording after the future for the first time, in young or popular classics such as Mazda MX-5, Mercedes W 123 and W 201 – and even with bleaching Hat racks or colour nuances in the paint to refuse a positive report, even if the vehicles have otherwise survived the critical “consumer car years” largely unharmed and are already in collector’s hands. Source(s) and whole(s) Article: Greeting -dodo-

Hello, I recently had an accident with my oldtimer and am now looking for a workshop that can professionally and cost-effectively repair the damage to me. I myself live in the Netherlands but because of the low wage costs I can imagine to have the damage done in Romania. The costs were estimated in NL to 10k Euro. On the Internet I passed through contributions from the mirror and Fifth Gear to the company Oldtimer Studio near Bucharest, but can unfortunately not find further references to this company. Has any of you had any experience with this company? If so, what can you say about their reliability and quality and would you recommend this company? Are their restorations really as high-quality as they claim to be? After all, in the Fith Gear video we talk about the fact that many of the cars come the Oldtimer Studio restored from Germany, Italy, Uk etc. I am naturally a little worried about the removal. Thanks and lots of guesses.

I want to buy a new vintage car and my two favorites are Ford Taunus 12m P4 and Opel Kadett A. Both are the same from the motorization, I think the space will be quite the same and both I like the design very much. I would like to ask you which dare you, as that should become my everyday car in the summer. Lg your vintage car newcomer93

Hello, I would like to know which Mercedes classic cars are in demand and will keep their value in the next few years or even increase them a bit. Background: I happen to see a Mercedes Benz 500 SEL W126 BJ 1981 and a 380 SEC W126 BJ 1982. I really like these two models! However, I don’t know how much these cars are worth with vintage cars and therefore I don’t know how much they are worth. I just don’t want to spend 800-10,000€ on a car that’s actually only worth 2000€. Which Mercedes classic cars are in demand and fit into the mentioned budget? The car should not be a “value investment” but be used daily in everyday life. It would be practically in a dream for me to drive such a vehicle. Is it cost-wise to use an old car in everyday life at all? I know how much the tax with an H-approval costs. I am also aware of the consumption with 12-15L. What about the insurance and the resulting repairs(difference to 10tkm are driven per year. Which models would you recommend to me as an everyday car? Which years of construction? What does it look like with rust problems and are higher running performance a problem? Can you find a good car up to approx. 10,000€? In theory I also find the old Porsche really appealing, but that’s probably the prices beyond good and bad. There are really many questions and I hope you can give me tips.

Hello dear community, I still have an old AWS-Schopper (Goggo) (Bj.1974) standing in the garage with me.Yes, yes I know now some will be groaning-I give you right, he is ugly!!Now my wife imagined to want to drive the car (if you like to call it that) again,nun good – anyway I have it now already so far, that the engine runs again without problems and the electrics funks.But-and now it comes, I don’t get to die the brake drum from the brake I tried to solve the drum with light hammer strokes-before sprayed with rust releaser-nothing.Then I screwed into the three threaded holes, which are in the Bremen drum(M10), long screws and thus tried to push the tommel from the carrier-nothing!Does there have any other idea?Be open for everything. wish you a nice Sunday,Alf