Category: Tesla Model 3 Forum

Yesterday at the stop sign – while driving off – I noticed that I still have the “burner care”: If I step on the gas too fast, I could strangle the car. “Shruggling” is not possible with e-cars, is it?

The Ranger is supposed to fix it, as far as it is clear. But how is it going to go on? Do I have to report the lack in the app? Is there something in the app with someone? Is there any information that goes beyond this “You might be affected” SMS from 13.12? I picked up my M3 today and got nothing further about it.

I have recently been an interesting phenomenon with the left rear side window. When I close the driver’s door and sit in the vehicle, the rear left side window drives a little bit upwards. When leaving the vehicle and closing the driver’s door from the outside, the rear side window goes a little bit downward. Interestingly, driving up only happens when you sit in the vehicle. The way the window sets back is about 3 to 4mm. and has apparently no connection with the otherwise correct behaviour of the windows (running down when opening and starting up after closing). It also affects only the left rear side window. I have become attentive by the fact that for about two weeks I have noticed a previously not existing noise when closing the driver’s door after boarding from the rear vehicle area, after various attempts I have now been able to assign and identify the noise. The strange thing about it, somehow the seat occupancy profile should play a role. Because when I open the driver’s door, NOT get in and close the door from the outside, the left rear side window does not move. I have already tried a window calibration according to the manual, but did not make any changes.

In December 2022 I ordered a Tesla ModelY performance with an EAP software for an additional €3,800. To date the software has not been delivered. At my request either to install the software or to return the money. To my objection Tesla has responded with the following text: “Good day Mr. Neumann, thank you for your email and your postal letter. Unfortunately I must inform you that we have requested your withdrawal of the Enhanced Autopilot of your order RN117957 085 cannot comply. There is no legal basis for your revocation, we also refer you to your order agreement & our questions & answers page about the autopilot. We thank you for your understanding and wish you continued good travel and a relaxing weekend. If you have any further questions, please contact us by phone or electronically.”

Hello, I sold my Mercedes A class a few weeks ago, because the constantly jerky switching processes of the double coupling have annoyed me very much in the long run. Now I am looking for a vehicle where the gearbox is running perfectly or where I should not really notice any switching operations anymore. For example, the Tesla Model 3, which I tested last week. Because there is only one gear. That’s very cool. But what I found very negatively. In principle, you have to be constantly on the accelerator pedal and, in my opinion, you can never relax the right foot. If you walk away from the accelerator pedal, the Tesla immediately slows down strongly. I don’t like that at all. I would like the vehicle to roll out normally when I walk away from the gas. So as I am used to with a burner. Otherwise, I was satisfied with the Tesla as a whole. But that’s a crucial point for me. Tesla somehow adjustable? And does every electric car drive like this?

But I didn’t find anything in the search, so here’s the reference to a Kickstarter project that was started a few days ago. Just before, I’m not involved in any way, either with friends or financially, but only with the customer/supporter. Here’s the project:https://www.kickstarter.com/…/…rkupplung-fur-das-model-3-von-tesla It’s about retrofitting a trailer coupling on Model 3 or the trailer load of an already existing original A To increase HK to approx. 1,450 kg (from 910 kg or 1,000 kg) at 100 kg of support load. Probably also for performance models. For Early Birds (currently 7 remaining) there is the appropriate test report for increasing the trailer load of an already existing trailer coupling for 350 EUR. Or a complete AHK for retrofitting including all parts (without installation) for 1,150 EUR (there are already all the early birds away). The Kickstarter project is still running 28 days, the amount is almost reached.

Quotation: @andy.dark wrote on August 12, 2020 at 08:15:08: Quotation: @slummy wrote on August 11, 2020 at 21:50:04: Yes correct. But my front beat from the beginning and it has become worse. In the SeC guarantee was rejected, although it was found that the discs are not in order. Tesla wanted for the front performance brakes over 800€, so I asked my workshop. In the waiting area I spoke with another M3P driver, who has the same problem. Anyone else here? They work well, even if it feels a bit weird (unsafe, and the pedal vibrates) to brake strongly at high speeds. But before I invest 800€ I drive them a little bit…

I’m 60 years old and I bought all my cars (Audi A4,A5) used. Now I’m playing with the idea of buying a Model 3. But I don’t know about the Model 3 or the fair used car prices for electric cars. I just heard that it’s absolutely necessary to have the battery checked. How do I know if an electric car is in good condition? (I don’t mean the things everyone sees by simply hingucking immediately) Hang the used car prices. auso as with burners mainly from the km, the equipment is rather unimportant? Are there online calculators for the used prices? Would it be epmmissable to search on the Internet a connoisseur (perhaps in a forum), and take that with you to buy? [translated from Motor-Talk from the topic ‘Buy Used’.]

The load is [at LFP-SR+]* 300 kg, if I have noticed it correctly. This is 46 kg less than with ID.3 Pro S, which is only a 4-seater for weight reasons. Shouldn’t the Model 3 be set to 4 or even 3 seats? j. _____ [*Note by Motor-Talk] [Thread separated from another topic]

For a few days I’ve had creaking sounds, sometimes crunching or crackling, but mostly a creaking. I think that comes from the front axle. Also in the straight run, but especially when steering. I hear this very clearly and annoyingly at low speeds. When I press the front right from above on the fender I hear it creaking, left not. Can that be the feather legs? Or drive shaft? Did anyone have that already? I have an appointment in the SEC on Thursday and it s on the phone already as if the friendly gentleman knows what that is and wants to provide parts already.