Category: MINI R55, R56, R57, R58, R59, R60 & R61 Forum

Hello together, am new here, I bought in January 2020 a Mini R56 one 1.4 with 95hp year 2008 with 162tkm. Bin hobby screwdriver and have replaced before the Tüv test the following parts: Brake complete, lamda probe before Kat, both cam wave sensors, coolant temperature sensors, spark plugs, air filter, oil, oil filter and rib belt. Chain without audible noise. Tuv passed without defects. Now to my problem, My daughter drives in the 30s zone stops at a junction, engine stops and starts no more. Starter runs, no ignition spark, when the start attempt smells like gasoline. No error message in the memory. No lamp lights up, which could indicate a fault. With second key the same. fuses engine room and passenger compartment all tested and good. Compression on all fours between 12-14 bar. Control unit submitted after verification found no error! Battery exchanged no change. Has a professional of you a tip that I could look at the still? LG into the forum, am new here.

Hello, I drive a MINI S (R56). Occasionally the engine “plobbs” when it’s up (especially from the 1st to the 2nd gear and from the 2nd to the 3rd gear), sometimes when it’s fast, sometimes even when it’s cozy. I know the “plobbing” from the JCW and other sports cars (or tuned Prollo carts), but I didn’t know that the Cooper S could do the same. How does this pop-up actually come about? Can you deliberately provoke it or avoid it? Or is it even a technical error? Thank you for your answers!

here always has to hangugge 10 times – you can recognize nice where the stand is the oilbrow … I always take a cw wipe and wake lobe and tupf there … ————————————————- there is a recommendation for what better lessable in sabre form ? zb : https://www.ebay.de/itm/353582015393?…

My Mini Diesel BJ 2008 with 40 000 km, well-kept carport car has totally rusted screws in the engine compartment. I am totally scared when I saw this. BMW rejects warranty because only the “look” has changed! In an accident with a polo the so-called bumper split up like a yoghurt cup in the back. At the polo there was nothing to see. Attention with mini-buy! That was my last car vin BMW-Group. I am sick of it!

Hello together. I’m about to buy a beautiful Clubman built in March 2010. Super well maintained, about 45,000km running, 1st hand. Check booklet well maintained, about 12,000 Euros… The machine has 95 hp… Actually everything great. That sounds like a vehicle that you can drive a good 7 years and 100,0000 km without what gets big broken. So I always knew that so far, and I imagined that at the mini too… Inspections and spare parts prices should also be moderate (I have in ir I’ve never had a BMW before…. I’ve driven everything, but BMW just doesn’t lie to me (for a variety of reasons). My buddies (all from the repairing car industry) just haven’t warned me for days to buy a part of it…. certainly not from a forest and meadow dealer… But I want something on it. I want to have it… Now I read here and in other forums that the engines of the Mini nevertheless rec … even after 50Tkm, …. I read about quite uncultivated BMW workshops, trouble without end. Horroring repair prices… Argh. This clouds my anticipation of the car, and I think about blowing it all off. What I can’t use is an unreliable vulnerable car… What’s the point of the image? Is there any problems with the year of construction in March 2010? The dealer said the w w Is there any problem? Would you be really glad to hear your experiences g – Carsten

Just wanted to add a hello to the Mini Forum, although I’ve been at MT for years but most recently due to my change from Audi to Mini landed here 🙂 Since I was a little tired of the Audi Avant after now 7 years, I looked around for a fun car, since my wife driving a Mini One was the car search quickly finished, it should be a JCW. Then I bought 2.5 months ago a Mini John Cooper Works Bj 06.2011 with the following equipment: Harma Kardon Sound , Leather , Xenon , PDC hin ten, panoramic roof , navigation , mobile phone , USB , folding mirrors , climate , heatable windshield , rain and light sensor , cruise control , seat heating , keyless , alarm system , sports button sport multifunctional steering wheel incl control of mobile phone navi etc. by voice commands more images can be found underMy Cars MFG Para

Hello Search a “small” second car with automatic and 4×4. Drive about 10,000 a year and a lot of short distance. Now I got into the Countryman and became friends with the MiniConfigurator…. From the optics the JCW would be top, the reason speaks for the Cooper A4 and in the middle lies the Cooper SA4. The diesel is not in question (Cooper D buzzes and scrapes, Cooper SD is too expensive). Equipment adjusted separate the two about CHF 4000 but which would you take??? Are the 122 hp in the Cooper sufficient and is the engine without turbo possibly the better choice??? For the Cooper S speaks of course the extra power as well as the better optics…. Thank you for your help!

HI, just spent several evenings convincing the roof to close. Now, however, I need tips on what can be the cause. The following behavior occurs: 1) I drive down the roof 2) it completely lowers off 3) as last step, but the sliding roof part drives forward again and pushes it against the rollover bar 4) In this position it stops, the control light under the control lever continues to blink 5) now it can’t be closed further, but also nic Het reopen 6) with command “Open” it tries to sink further, but does not pull the sliding roof back again 7) with command “Close” it tries to lift itself, but hangs on the rollbar and builds there really pressure on Hab’ already many tried to drive out of this position again, everything without success, except: I try to push the folding roof back to the rear like a jerk, that succeeds conditionally a few millimeters, and with luck I reach a position from which the roof can suddenly be closed again. I found it striking, as I said, that if the roof opens correctly and the closing process ends cleanly, no further forward driving of the sliding roof can be recognized, but this happens, then the roof jams again. Does anyone know this behavior and what can be the cause? I am very grateful for tips. Greeting Volker

Today I made several full-brakes with my Cooper S EZ 3/11 at high speeds in order to be prepared in case of emergency.(Have the car for two weeks) The mini runs on 7×17 Webspoke with 205/45/17V Hankook(7mm profile) Winter tires (no RFT) and has installed the series suspension without a sporty tuning! 1.) at 230 The car springs in at the front and starts to swim very hard,Heck very unstable and light (hardly manageable) 2.) at 200 Everything slightly mitigated but still very dangerous 3.) at 160 Now I would say somewhat ok but still strong immersion, swimming and very light rear. Air pressure set around 2.6Bar, track set by the friendly two weeks ago How does your mini behave? Is there any remedy? My Z4 35is by the way also with standard stand in front so strongly spring in and began to swing. That was then only eliminated by the installation of Schnitzer springs and light OZ rims 18 with Non RFT tire! For tips I would be s Very grateful, however, the car should not spring much harder after possible improvements! I thought first of all of other Stabis ,event.Domstrebe ,shorter springs from Schnitzer etc. Mini technically am absolute beginner but car driving I can already! Look forward to your tips ,so that also when braking joy comes up!

Here are the first pictures – IMO looks successful! The coupé could be an exciting addition to the mini-portfolio. What do you think?http://www.evo.co.uk/news/evonews/240514/mini_coupe_concept.html