Category: MINI R55, R56, R57, R58, R59, R60 & R61 Forum

Dear forum… We thought with a few people earlier about what the following repairs could cost in a proper, free workshop. Ggf has already experienced here. The assumed car is a Mini Cooper from 2014 with 100,000 km and the N16, 122 hp petrol engine, 6-speed manual transmission: 1) Exchange of the chain tensioner 2) Exchange of the entire chain with rails and tensioner… 3) Exchange of the valve cover seal 4) Exchange of the cylinder head seal 5) Exchange of the oil tank seal A buddy works at VW, the others only have their experience of some components and are also not motorists. I also have no idea. The workshop would have to create a calculation and thus want to mention only approximate values from the belly without guarantee: So we came from 1-5 to the following numbers: 1= 250 Euro 2= 1300 Euro 3= 100 Euro 4= 1300 Euro 5= 350 Euro with oil What do you think? On 100 Euro you can certainly not say it. But could these numbers fit about? I am happy about your E Thank you.

Good morning, I am currently looking for a nice convertible. I have fallen in love with the design of the new Mini Cooper Roadster JCW. Now I am facing a difficult decision for me. To choose a Mini Cooper Roadster S for 31400€ (8,47%) discount. and a VW Golf 6 TSI 1.4 160 hp here is the final price at 28100 (13% discount). Reason clearly says that the VW is the better car because it offers significantly more comfort and above all “more car” for the money b ekomm. I find it very stylish from the design. The other side clearly says Mini because it is simply a fun car and unique from the design, because I really like the “retro look”. The price difference here is quite large compared to the comfort car to the fun car How would you decide? Unfortunately the JCW Cooper Roadster is very expensive otherwise this would be my absolute favorite because everything fits here in my opinion. What about discounts at the dealers? Mini dealers I have only got 5% discount and there is only one financing with 4.9 at VW currently 3.9%. My current driving behaviour: about 15000km annually with 50% city, 50%. On excursions on weekends it looks of course different. Have currently always been able to use the following vehicles: Porsche Boxter S, Golf 6 R. At the moment I have unfortunately no own vehicle, that should change however soon I thank you for your help and hope that the decision will soon be easier for me. .

Hello, I’m thinking of buying a mini as a replacement for my A3 Convertible 2.0 TDI S-Tronic. I drive 32,000 km a year, of which 50% motorway, of which long distance: 6-12 times 700 km, approx. 2 times 2,000 km (e.g. Sicily). Transports are usually 2 people (190 cm and 160 cm). Rarely also times 3 or 4. To the 2 people often skis or golf bags. From the place for the luggage even the Mini Cabrio is enough, the skis are then on the middle armrest, then you can surely only use Automa The only thing that keeps the shift lever free is the Clubman, so that the hand shift is also possible here. So far all this works very well with my A3 Cabrio 2.0 TDI S-Tronic with 17 inches without sports suspension. From these experiences I would choose a Clubman Cooper SD Automatic. I had this yesterday for the test drive, but with sports suspension, however, the friendly one admitted only 250 km, then I drove 150 km. After that I had another Hatch Cooper S hand switch without a sports suspension more than 100 km, because I wanted to know if I was enthusiastic about the engine against all reason (32Tkm). My impressions: – Clubman with a sports suspension for the long distance too nervous – Hatch with a series suspension better than Club / Sport – Cooper S Motor is too loud for me in the long run and at high speed – both like to drive grooves to – Clubman slightly more susceptible to side wind – automatic drives more relaxed (you can taste the m-drive and eat/drink) But it’s different than the S-Tronic performance. Despite the test drive I’m still unsure, it was too short, Clubman without a sports suspension was not available, automatic yes or no and at all. Does my project make sense, since some do not recommend the Mini for the long distance? How are your personal experiences? Can you recommend the Mini for the long distance? Which model and which drive can you recommend?

Hi, does someone have an explanation for the rule? We were in the resin and showed the car the first time the snow. That was also all great on the road, until… Until then, full of exuberance, we drove on a non-roamed parking place. The snow was so about 20cm high, that went just that way in the beginning, but where does this rappeln come from? here a youtube video link (please include sound) 3L

Yesterday, my Mini Cooper D (with chili pack included spoilers approved as standard only end of May 2009) was for the second time in the wash road – suddenly the rear spoiler crashed down to the metal floor. All brackets broken. Washer staff very sympathetic (knows me), recommended visits at BMW. To BMW later, they took no responsibility guaranteed. The washing system insurance will most likely pay (about EUR 370). e: From now on it always says wash by hand. This is no joke in the middle of the city! Someone also hit my beautiful rear bumper (white). I am sad….

Hello dear mini-drivers, I’ve been a countryman S for about 6 weeks and I’m quite annoyed due to many little things: 1. Meal/painting noises from the speedometer are just in front of the traffic lights. 2. Grinding noises when braking downhill e.g. into the underground garage. 3. Howling noise from the engine compartment from about 60 km/h, similar to when driving behind a truck, is not loud, but since it is so high frequency, is annoying. And what the BMW/Mini workshop: 1. Is probably b a my tacho “mini boost…” and with Tacho with Navi conceptually normal, so no exchange. To 2. grinding noise is normal with Mini. To 3. if he cannot explain himself, wants to check my mini again and lend me another comparable countryman, so that I can see if that does not occur with that. Since this back and forth since the purchase pulls and nothing really happens, I will hand the whole matter over to a suitable specialist lawyer Does any of you have anything like that to report?

Hello together, our greener is currently making trouble with jerking and poor gas acceptance at the beginning of the journey at low temperatures. Model One, BJ 2008, 95 hp Current KM stand 100.500 km spark plugs changed approx. 65.000 km Lamdasonde Pre-cat changed approx.80.000 km Lamdasonde After-cat changed approx.98.000 km Oil- incl. filter change LM 5W-40 approx.85.000 km Endpipe Exhaust is black Daily short distance to the office: morning hin 8 km / noon Back 8 + hin 8 km / evening Back 8 km At other stel I have already read that you should keep an eye on the cooling water temperature sensor, so at the beginning of the ride!? Right? I haven’t read the error memory yet. However, I haven’t found anything for the speed jump.

Good morning Mini friends. You’re my last hope… I can’t start my mini cold for two months now. Try the first five to ten starts he spins a little bit slowly but from the 10 times he spins faster he sounds like he’s just about to start! Can’t start, but I’ve already emptied the whole battery. Once started I can turn it off and leave it right away without a problem. Battery ok, candles spark okay. r inject in air intake tube no effect! The two gasoline pumps hum under the rear back seat, so I assume that they work. From 24 degrees outside temperature it starts the first kick. As added below, I already had the thermostat, thermostat sensor and the gasoline high pressure injection pump replaced. Please help me!

Hello, with my problem had recently fetched a new battery because the old Platt was. So the little one also ran well now he has stood now about 3 weeks and did not jump any more only cracked but you have seen the still juice on it (armatures have lit) So now I have the battery charged (according to multimeter is this full) have it built again, you hear that what does, but no life sign when you turn the key around (no lamps at nothing?) When I briefly measure the battery is to be recognized that the voltage collapses as long as it is installed in the vehicle. I build this battery again from full 12volt. I ask for help, am right now really councilless greetings

Hello together, I have the following problem and I hope one or the other can help me… After my car seemed to have a problem with the cooling water circuit (engine ran hot and engine control light went on) first the thermostat was renewed (incl. air drained etc.) After that the problem still did not seem to be solved, because the cooling water emptied itself with running warm engine in the balance tank quite quickly and only after the engine cooled down, s As a result, it was diagnosed that the ZKD had to be replaced. However, since this is quite expensive in a workshop (>€1000), it seemed to me rather uneconomical, so that I have now unscrewed the cylinder head myself (according to various instructions/instructions I had found). Now, however, the following problem arises: With one cylinder, the outlet valves are open and with all others they are closed. How is this possible or. How can I change this position? In my opinion, and if I have done the execution correctly so far, all valves must be closed. Can someone give me a tip for this? I’m also trying to set up a suitable image in which it becomes recognizable what I mean. Thank you very much for the feedback!!!