Category: Peugeot Forum

Hello together. I’m about to buy a beautiful Clubman built in March 2010. Super well maintained, about 45,000km running, 1st hand. Check booklet well maintained, about 12,000 Euros… The machine has 95 hp… Actually everything great. That sounds like a vehicle that you can drive a good 7 years and 100,0000 km without what gets big broken. So I always knew that so far, and I imagined that at the mini too… Inspections and spare parts prices should also be moderate (I have in ir I’ve never had a BMW before…. I’ve driven everything, but BMW just doesn’t lie to me (for a variety of reasons). My buddies (all from the repairing car industry) just haven’t warned me for days to buy a part of it…. certainly not from a forest and meadow dealer… But I want something on it. I want to have it… Now I read here and in other forums that the engines of the Mini nevertheless rec … even after 50Tkm, …. I read about quite uncultivated BMW workshops, trouble without end. Horroring repair prices… Argh. This clouds my anticipation of the car, and I think about blowing it all off. What I can’t use is an unreliable vulnerable car… What’s the point of the image? Is there any problems with the year of construction in March 2010? The dealer said the w w Is there any problem? Would you be really glad to hear your experiences g – Carsten

Just wanted to add a hello to the Mini Forum, although I’ve been at MT for years but most recently due to my change from Audi to Mini landed here 🙂 Since I was a little tired of the Audi Avant after now 7 years, I looked around for a fun car, since my wife driving a Mini One was the car search quickly finished, it should be a JCW. Then I bought 2.5 months ago a Mini John Cooper Works Bj 06.2011 with the following equipment: Harma Kardon Sound , Leather , Xenon , PDC hin ten, panoramic roof , navigation , mobile phone , USB , folding mirrors , climate , heatable windshield , rain and light sensor , cruise control , seat heating , keyless , alarm system , sports button sport multifunctional steering wheel incl control of mobile phone navi etc. by voice commands more images can be found underMy Cars MFG Para

Hello Search a “small” second car with automatic and 4×4. Drive about 10,000 a year and a lot of short distance. Now I got into the Countryman and became friends with the MiniConfigurator…. From the optics the JCW would be top, the reason speaks for the Cooper A4 and in the middle lies the Cooper SA4. The diesel is not in question (Cooper D buzzes and scrapes, Cooper SD is too expensive). Equipment adjusted separate the two about CHF 4000 but which would you take??? Are the 122 hp in the Cooper sufficient and is the engine without turbo possibly the better choice??? For the Cooper S speaks of course the extra power as well as the better optics…. Thank you for your help!

HI, just spent several evenings convincing the roof to close. Now, however, I need tips on what can be the cause. The following behavior occurs: 1) I drive down the roof 2) it completely lowers off 3) as last step, but the sliding roof part drives forward again and pushes it against the rollover bar 4) In this position it stops, the control light under the control lever continues to blink 5) now it can’t be closed further, but also nic Het reopen 6) with command “Open” it tries to sink further, but does not pull the sliding roof back again 7) with command “Close” it tries to lift itself, but hangs on the rollbar and builds there really pressure on Hab’ already many tried to drive out of this position again, everything without success, except: I try to push the folding roof back to the rear like a jerk, that succeeds conditionally a few millimeters, and with luck I reach a position from which the roof can suddenly be closed again. I found it striking, as I said, that if the roof opens correctly and the closing process ends cleanly, no further forward driving of the sliding roof can be recognized, but this happens, then the roof jams again. Does anyone know this behavior and what can be the cause? I am very grateful for tips. Greeting Volker

Today I made several full-brakes with my Cooper S EZ 3/11 at high speeds in order to be prepared in case of emergency.(Have the car for two weeks) The mini runs on 7×17 Webspoke with 205/45/17V Hankook(7mm profile) Winter tires (no RFT) and has installed the series suspension without a sporty tuning! 1.) at 230 The car springs in at the front and starts to swim very hard,Heck very unstable and light (hardly manageable) 2.) at 200 Everything slightly mitigated but still very dangerous 3.) at 160 Now I would say somewhat ok but still strong immersion, swimming and very light rear. Air pressure set around 2.6Bar, track set by the friendly two weeks ago How does your mini behave? Is there any remedy? My Z4 35is by the way also with standard stand in front so strongly spring in and began to swing. That was then only eliminated by the installation of Schnitzer springs and light OZ rims 18 with Non RFT tire! For tips I would be s Very grateful, however, the car should not spring much harder after possible improvements! I thought first of all of other Stabis ,event.Domstrebe ,shorter springs from Schnitzer etc. Mini technically am absolute beginner but car driving I can already! Look forward to your tips ,so that also when braking joy comes up!

Here are the first pictures – IMO looks successful! The coupé could be an exciting addition to the mini-portfolio. What do you think?http://www.evo.co.uk/news/evonews/240514/mini_coupe_concept.html

Hello together, we recently bought a Mini Cooper Clubman with a 1.6l engine. Now I notice that the engine is ringing or nailing in the stand somehow (as I said, no diesel!) your engines are ringing in the stand, or has only ours. Kind of sounds like a valve game. Are the small engines running around these days, or do I have to worry? Does anyone know what that could be? Is this possibly due to the cold? P.s. Please don’t write, “that this doesn’t sound good, and that I should go to the workshop!” If I wanted to, I wouldn’t ask in the forum! Thank you in advance.

Hello together, And although last week I bought a Mini Cooper S built in 2009 with 105,000km. (From private person) On the way home about 50km the engine lamp turned on me. When I opened the hood I noticed that there was no cooling water in it. But when I opened the hood at the seller was still cooling water in it. I had the car tow directly to a workshop, and then came out that a cable had a crack. 3 days later I got the car “repaired” from the workshop again. I drove about 30km when I stopped and waited for an acquaintance in the car, I noticed that my engine hood was smoking. Then I got out of it opened the hood and noticed that under my car again a giant puddle was of course again no water in the coolant tank. I had to have the car dragged back to the next workshop again, which then found that a hose on the thermostat did not fit properly. Did this also repair again. After that, no cooling water was lost. But as soon as the heater stopped cooling water was still running?

Ei, I have mistreated my R59 (roadster), first the battery was empty, then I tried to give starthlife and probably the steering gear skyrocketed. (please don’t laugh) Now he should go to the workshop. It comes and fetches him, but he is standing in the garage and that I can’t push him out without a steering handle. I have the lock, but the fully flowless car doesn’t react to the lock. In the lock is still a mechanical lock with which I can open the door, I can come in, but can I also find the steering wheel closed with the mechanical lock? I fear otherwise I can’t push the car out of the garage and stay inside he can’t w Edit: I have the car lifter now so high that the whole rear axle was off the ground, the car lifter has to roll so I can’t turn the car a little and then I don’t have to stay inside w Edit: I’ve got the car lifter now the car lifter yet I know how to load the battery.