MOTOR-TALK

Category: Renault Forum

  • That’s why you’re supposed to buy a Peugeot as a German

    Quotation: Peugeot continues to rely on German suppliers The PSA Group (Peugeot and Citroen) will stick to its purchasing policy in contrast to the ideas of the French government and will not prefer domestic suppliers in the future. Peugeot brand head Jean-Philippe Collin emphasized this in a conversation with the “Automobilwoche”: “I say quite clearly: we hold on to all our suppliers. There is no reason at all to worry about suppliers who do not have their own suppliers in France. “On average, 22 per cent of all parts of a Peugeot come from German suppliers.” He doesn’t understand the excitement in Germany on this issue,” said Collin, who was Chief Purchasing Officer for the entire PSA Group prior to his appointment as Peugeot Brand CEO. “We reaffirm our relations with all of our suppliers. These relationships are very stable and long-term.” Meik:-D

  • Peugeot 306 wheelhouse rear left + threshold right

    Hello, drive at the time Peugeot 306 2,0 HDI St. Tropez station wagon. I noticed that the car has no wheelhouse box at the rear left. I noticed also with many Peugeot 306 station wagons. Is this normal? There has been a lot of dirt accumulated. And then my threshold right of thinking I plastic is a crack and wanted to ask if you could take all the sleepers for 306 station wagons? And recently the central locking back left makes funny noises while opening and at s Sometimes it doesn’t close either.

  • Specific questions on cylinder head seal change

    Hello Peugeot municipality, normally I am on the road in the Opelforum, because I drive an Opel myself. I hope to be welcome here anyway 😉 I tried my best before, of course, but I still have a few special questions. In the Peugeot 106 2nd series (year 2000, TU1JP (HFX), 1.1L 1124 cm3 ) my brother’s cylinder head seal is defective at the well-known place on the side of the alternator. This is especially good after a motor wash. In addition, there is oil in the cooling water. On the occasion we want to take along timing belts, water pump, tensioning roller (cooling water new and oil change after that is clear). The rough flow to the timing belt change (motor plug-off pin 10mm and 6mm, airing of the cooling system with the three (!) venting screws) is clear to me. Also the rough flow for the change of the cylinder head seal and the problem with the barrel bushings. A repair instruction for the Citroen Saxo is available. Mei a question specifically refers to the Motronic MP 7.4.4 injection system from Bosch and what of it all needs to be removed from the cylinder head. If one has pictures and tips on how the things are fixed and what is to be taken into account I would be very grateful. I think all other hoses (low pressure,…) and electrical connections should be easy to disassemble or are there still typical pitfalls for the model hidden here? and if necessary take photos before the expansion. Thank you for your help!

  • Engine Peugeot

    Hello guys I hope you can help me, I have a problem with my car what I want to finish.. I start in the cooling water when you open the lid is a light brown layer where I think the head seal is over now but in the oil is no water or anything else. Today I drove it is warm outside and the indicator went all at once on red and the whole cooling water ran out of the bottle now my question if it is the head seal 185,000 down head seal or another engine I wanted to make there when it goes straight in a 1.6. Hope you can help me. mfg

  • Car jerks after right turn & gets no fuel ….

    Good evening !! I have a problem since a long time. I was already in a Peugeot workshop, but they could not help me there either. I describe my problem: So ….. If I am on a straight track from a right turn and want to speed up, then my 106 is pushing very much & I can push on the gas as I want, he apparently does not get fuel. That is always a problem for me when driving up the motorway, because I because I don’t get out fast enough, or at Bergen, if I want to go up there & there’s a car behind me, I almost stop because I can’t give a gas. What could this be about ?? At the moment the problems with my little coach pile up. MFG

  • Problems with 106s, built in 1993, 60hp

    Hello dear Peugeot driver. I have been driving a Peugeot 106 EZ 03/1992, 44kw/60hp, mileage 211358 km since November. The car has survived the winter quite well, now that it gets warm but slowly a few quirks are noticeable. My biggest problem is that it is leaning, then it goes on, but mostly only with passed gas pedal. In addition, it often takes almost no more gas or even worse – it seems as if it is “bocking”. At 140 km/h during an exercise Then he drives a few meters and goes out at the first clutch step. When I drive to the traffic lights and uncouple or the clutch step, he goes out immediately. When I have driven 5 km that does not happen any more. Since the car has no indication of the torque, engine temperature or oil pressure I have no idea what it could be. I always had an Irmscher-tuned Opel Corsa B before, I would have said that the F I don’t know what the little Frenchman might suffer from. I like the car, even if it’s not nice (it’s 2 color and in the car it pulls like Hechsuppe) and I would be happy to be able to keep it alive for a few more months. It would be very nice if you would help me quickly, the car also needs to be professional.

  • Hoarse from the engine compartment after timing belt exchange – Peugeot 106 S2 Sport 1.4L

    Hello all on the other hand I recently changed the timing belt with my Peugeot 106 S2 Sport 1.4L (Bj. 2000) with the water pump and tensioning roller (from Gates) and since then it is crying in the engine compartment with cold engine quite unbearably. Here is a video that I have recorded: Peugeot 106 howls from the engine roomDescription of the problem: It only howls with cold engine and the noise is dependent on speed (starts at approx. 1,300 rpm, becomes louder and higher frequency and stops at 2,200 rpm). About 5-10 minutes drive you don’t hear anything anymore and if I leave the car only 1 hour or so and then drive again, you don’t hear anything. But if the engine is completely cold again (so leave it for several hours, especially overnight) the game starts from the front again and it is whistling again…Trying problem solutions: In order to narrow down the source of noise more precisely, I left the car at night without V-belts and in the morning the noise was still present: so Keilrie I also slightly loosened the timing belt yesterday (previously it was about 60° with the “rotation test”, now it is 90°), but the problem persists. So I think that only the water pump or the tensioning roller are still in question (the WaPu has a plastic shovel). What do you think? Thank you in advance Dear Greetings,

  • Partner 1.8 Petrol Speed spins, workshop doesn’t know what to do…

    Hello everyone, I have been having a problem with my Peugeot partner for a long time, 1.8 liters of petrol, 90hp, year of construction 99. After you switch off the speed does not fall off, but “remains stuck”. If you are just accelerating, it rises even further, then either stays constantly high or fluctuates something or falls slowly again. That’s different, so it doesn’t get boring… Sometimes there are also phases, because the engine runs constantly on 4000 revolutions. The following was done: after I did a little research myself, I installed another actuator/empty controller, but that didn’t bring any success. So to Peugeot: the harness was measured, no error was found. They then meant that both my old and the newly built motor were defective. So built-in idle controller returned as defective, others installed, the same again. To the highway, it wasn’t on the highway, but on red traffic lights it was a bit embarrassing. The complete throttle valve including the actuator was inserted from a scrap vehicle, again without success. So it does not seem to lie there. The workshop of my trust said that it could also be on the control unit. However, this is not certain and an exchange of the control unit could only pass through Peugeot because of the immobilizer. I myself have still noticed: the high speeds are obviously triggered by the actuator. In a phase when the rotational speed ahl actually dropped to about 1000 cc. I pulled off the plug and went on almost without a controller. Look, the speed was always lowered as fast as it should be. Only the Peugeot runs very modestly when it is cold. Apparently the actuator is incorrectly controlled. Did anyone have a similar problem? Are there other causes of error that could fit? Can the error be circled in any way? I would be very grateful for some tips.

  • Peugeot 2008 DKR at the Dakar Rally

    Buenos Aires – What in the world does Peugeot want with one And then also with the Dakar Rally? All-wheel and desert sand is the name of the couple, which promises success there. But Peugeot sees quite differently, and sends his “2008 DKR” on the basis of the snug City SUV into the desert. – now we see the competition painting for the first time. Peugeot and the caffeine-like financially strong partner Red Bull mean it anyway seriously. That shows only a look at the driver list. Several times, also won 2004, 2005 and 2007 on Mitsubishi as well as 2012 and 2013 on Mini. The third driver is, with VW he won the Dakar 2010. Sainz says: “The tests have shown that the 2008 DKR is very fast. However, a 100% reliability is difficult to realize at such an early stage of the project. The three Dakar full professionals are to show from January 4th: It works, even with pure rear drive. With the series version such a race 2008 has naturally n This also applies to the . At the end of November the team is shipping the service trucks, in December the three racing cars are coming in. Before they are completely rebuilt.

  • Partner HDI 90 PS battery ????

    Hello, fucking cold!!! Yesterday already happened – put in the car and turned the ignition lock – “klag”, no more!! Two second attempts the diesel started and we moved the thing. Even several times turned off and at some point turned on again – NoProblem!! This morning again an attempt – “klag”, no more! Next attempt “klag” ……. So this morning it was never possible to start the box. The neighbour says, if it only makes “kack” then the starter or. the magnetic switch on the starter and therefore I need a new starter, because the thing is firmly attached to it. An acquaintance says that a battery monitoring is installed on the newer cars and even no attempt to turn the starter is started with undervoltage – you can test if you close another car with a bridge cable to it. ALSO: Tested and ……. goes times and can’t do it!!! Now I’m not so sure if it’s done with a new battery although it is clear to me that our partner is already 6 years old and still owns the first battery!!! What do you think about this??? Thank you JBR