Hello together, yesterday I was with the 106 ́er to the TÜV. TÜV passed and off home. Car parked and two hours later I wanted to bring it back to its owner. The starter turned but the engine did not jump on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The ADAC called and looked and looked with the result that the multifunctional relay would possibly be defective, okay…….. This morning to the scrap yard steamed and a new used worried, installed and started !!! Nix was, the 106 ́er did not jump on …………. He has no sparks, petrol punch starts with ignition. There can be no such thing, or yet ;-)……… Ask for good tips……… Thank you !
Category: Peugeot 1er Forum
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Engine no longer has compression after repair
Hello, short summary: Peugeot 106 1.0l Gasoline Year of manufacture 1994 (30,000 (real) Km) The cooler was tight / it was already gushing out at the top of the filling socket Well, at least the head was screwed down (please don’t ask me why, I wasn’t there) and then the open block was covered and the car was left in a workshop. Then it was in the way and it was pushed out as it was. ufbuchse of the 1st cyl. a little pushed up (however). Then someone thought: “Oh, let’s just hammer them in again carefully”. Well yes. Then the ZDK was renewed all the Shrubs/Seals etc. and the head was screwed on again. [So far only from narrative] Now I came to it. I missed the good piece a new timing belt + WaPu (wish of the owner/the old one was around). Then after Rep. guide the valve play was adjusted (really ver and the Fzg. of course did not jump. [I was strictly opposed to setting the VS, but it doesn’t matter] Then an old-served master came in and set the valve game himself, as he did in his statement, already at 100th of cars. But now he still didn’t jump. Compression (until now only on the 1.Cyl.) measured -> zero compression.Who has an idea about what it can be? (The master certainly has no (probably no desire) [Es se se i still said that the cylinder order (francose) was taken into account during valve play and the original problem with the cooling system is now ignored]
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Where exactly is the OT-Geber at the 106?
Moinsen, yesterday my mother called me “Car doesn’t start anymore!”. So I gurgled there and realized: In fact, no more jumps Previously there were occasional dropouts. Once, last week, he jumped out but immediately started again. I then tested everything known to me and found out that there is no spark of ignition. Some research then brought me to the OT-Geber, as also the control lamp lights up. Had the error codes according to the method “Pin2 of the green plug on result: 1 – 2 – test start 1 – 1 – final test So just as smart as before. So I wanted to get to the valuer of my trust and an OT-Geber. But that’s where it starts. WO Is this exactly sitting? I entered everything possible at google until the night at 3, but found no suitable picture, just hint like “OT-Geber change”. I can’t say much to the car itself, the key numbers are 3003/693 year 1994 with 44kW (a Palm Be ach iss). Recently I changed the brakes in front and back, more has not been made – Okay, the lifting roof I had to stick to because there was a free shower in the rain
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Specific questions on cylinder head seal change
Hello Peugeot municipality, normally I am on the road in the Opelforum, because I drive an Opel myself. I hope to be welcome here anyway 😉 I tried my best before, of course, but I still have a few special questions. In the Peugeot 106 2nd series (year 2000, TU1JP (HFX), 1.1L 1124 cm3 ) my brother’s cylinder head seal is defective at the well-known place on the side of the alternator. This is especially good after a motor wash. In addition, there is oil in the cooling water. On the occasion we want to take along timing belts, water pump, tensioning roller (cooling water new and oil change after that is clear). The rough flow to the timing belt change (motor plug-off pin 10mm and 6mm, airing of the cooling system with the three (!) venting screws) is clear to me. Also the rough flow for the change of the cylinder head seal and the problem with the barrel bushings. A repair instruction for the Citroen Saxo is available. Mei a question specifically refers to the Motronic MP 7.4.4 injection system from Bosch and what of it all needs to be removed from the cylinder head. If one has pictures and tips on how the things are fixed and what is to be taken into account I would be very grateful. I think all other hoses (low pressure,…) and electrical connections should be easy to disassemble or are there still typical pitfalls for the model hidden here? and if necessary take photos before the expansion. Thank you for your help!
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Engine Peugeot
Hello guys I hope you can help me, I have a problem with my car what I want to finish.. I start in the cooling water when you open the lid is a light brown layer where I think the head seal is over now but in the oil is no water or anything else. Today I drove it is warm outside and the indicator went all at once on red and the whole cooling water ran out of the bottle now my question if it is the head seal 185,000 down head seal or another engine I wanted to make there when it goes straight in a 1.6. Hope you can help me. mfg
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Car jerks after right turn & gets no fuel ….
Good evening !! I have a problem since a long time. I was already in a Peugeot workshop, but they could not help me there either. I describe my problem: So ….. If I am on a straight track from a right turn and want to speed up, then my 106 is pushing very much & I can push on the gas as I want, he apparently does not get fuel. That is always a problem for me when driving up the motorway, because I because I don’t get out fast enough, or at Bergen, if I want to go up there & there’s a car behind me, I almost stop because I can’t give a gas. What could this be about ?? At the moment the problems with my little coach pile up. MFG
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Problems with 106s, built in 1993, 60hp
Hello dear Peugeot driver. I have been driving a Peugeot 106 EZ 03/1992, 44kw/60hp, mileage 211358 km since November. The car has survived the winter quite well, now that it gets warm but slowly a few quirks are noticeable. My biggest problem is that it is leaning, then it goes on, but mostly only with passed gas pedal. In addition, it often takes almost no more gas or even worse – it seems as if it is “bocking”. At 140 km/h during an exercise Then he drives a few meters and goes out at the first clutch step. When I drive to the traffic lights and uncouple or the clutch step, he goes out immediately. When I have driven 5 km that does not happen any more. Since the car has no indication of the torque, engine temperature or oil pressure I have no idea what it could be. I always had an Irmscher-tuned Opel Corsa B before, I would have said that the F I don’t know what the little Frenchman might suffer from. I like the car, even if it’s not nice (it’s 2 color and in the car it pulls like Hechsuppe) and I would be happy to be able to keep it alive for a few more months. It would be very nice if you would help me quickly, the car also needs to be professional.
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Hoarse from the engine compartment after timing belt exchange – Peugeot 106 S2 Sport 1.4L
Hello all on the other hand I recently changed the timing belt with my Peugeot 106 S2 Sport 1.4L (Bj. 2000) with the water pump and tensioning roller (from Gates) and since then it is crying in the engine compartment with cold engine quite unbearably. Here is a video that I have recorded: Peugeot 106 howls from the engine roomDescription of the problem: It only howls with cold engine and the noise is dependent on speed (starts at approx. 1,300 rpm, becomes louder and higher frequency and stops at 2,200 rpm). About 5-10 minutes drive you don’t hear anything anymore and if I leave the car only 1 hour or so and then drive again, you don’t hear anything. But if the engine is completely cold again (so leave it for several hours, especially overnight) the game starts from the front again and it is whistling again…Trying problem solutions: In order to narrow down the source of noise more precisely, I left the car at night without V-belts and in the morning the noise was still present: so Keilrie I also slightly loosened the timing belt yesterday (previously it was about 60° with the “rotation test”, now it is 90°), but the problem persists. So I think that only the water pump or the tensioning roller are still in question (the WaPu has a plastic shovel). What do you think? Thank you in advance Dear Greetings,
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Peugeot 106 energetically (almost) dead
Hello everyone, until this afternoon apparently nothing indicated that my Peugeot would get 106 start problems. Even this evening everything seemed to be still normal when I put the ignition key in the ignition lock. The car radio went on, all the indicator lights lit up as usual. But when trying to start the engine, the starter only jerked at once, and then immediately for the first time. When again he did not react at all. adio no longer on – i.e., it did not go beyond the attempt, since it was obviously not sufficiently supplied with electricity. Neither turn signals, light nor brake light go. Only the interior lighting, immobilizer lamps and the valve lighting get electricity. But they all extinguish as soon as I try to turn on the blower. The V-belt on the alternator sits tight and is intact (it is, there is somewhere else a second V-belt that I would have missed). I didn’t check the fuses because of the darkness and because I can’t find the manual. But it seems very strange to me that almost the entire electrical system has failed and the valve lighting goes out as soon as you want to turn on the blower. What happened there? And can someone give me a hint where I can download a manual? Thank you for your interest and (hopefully) clarification. Greeting peunot data about the Peugeot: EZ March 1996 – Peugeot (F) Key numbers: 010226 – 3003 – 690019 4
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Peugeot 106 II makes noise while driving
Hello, because it is very urgent, I open a new thread. I asked again under a thread with the same problem, but the topic starter unfortunately does not answer. Here the problem on my daughter 106 II:At a certain speed (between 45-60km/h) one stops in the warmed up state a howling sound from the front. When the car is cold the noise does not occur at all. When accelerating the noise is gone. If you give a light gas or if you are lightly off the gas he When I press the clutch while driving, the noise is continuous until I have rolled out to about 30-40kmh then it disappears again. It would be important to know if it is really the drive shaft and if so it is probably the left ??? Many thanks to you in advance !!!