Category: Peugeot 4er, 5er, 6er Forum

Dear forum, my Peugeot 607 now celebrates my 1-year anniversary and it drives like a lion. Only occasionally error messages like “airbag defective” or recently I can not hear my interlocutor at the telephone system. He however can understand me very well. I thought, maybe it is because of the fuses! When I then looked in the manual, I hit a light blow as I saw the fuses (see photo). Can it be that the seller did not want to use these correctly and adequately???? I know unfortunately not so well, but there are a few fuses missing here or? A week before the purchase, actually still worked, that the side mirrors snapped in randomly, if one shut down the car. When I then bought the car, it did not go any more. Only the doors, luggage room allowed to be closed. Can it be that he has randomly inserted a few fuses? Is that so correct? Maybe this would explain that my seat heating does not work, side mirrors do not fold in and I do not get the error message, if I want to be quite happy here, if I want a security link!

My break 2.0 HDI threatens to overheat in city traffic (stop and go driving). It starts like this: it always stays at 70 degrees as long as the car gets good wind, but you get in city traffic (stop and go) the temperature indicator starts to rise and goes up to 90 degrees and the indicator stop starts to flash. Cooling water is enough on it and oil is also filled up to Maxi. It can’t lie there, that happened to me last week in Berlin mid (around 15 o’clock). I closed the ventilation nozzles to the right and left towards the window in the middle and put both windows in front and put heating on full pulley and the heat out of the windows blew the temperature indicator so down 10-15 degrees and stop lamp blinked no more. But that’s not a solution in the long run, since it already starts with light city traffic from 70 degrees to 90 degrees. What’s the problem going on?

HI folk, need help: My Peugeot 406 HDI (2.2 liters, manual circuit) Year of construction 2003, KM Stand 177.000 has a new incontinence problem: the gearbox seems to lose oil. Anyway, the gearbox in the left area is wet, the car smells like oil (even in the interior !). The Peugeot workshop said that the oil would probably come from a defective Simmerring to the drive axle. Now I have (for logistical reasons, I have a free workshop of indirect proximity) the question Sim The oil that can be seen on the left side of the transmission is clean. So no engine oil. Strangely enough, the plastic/rubber hose below the air filter box is also oily – also here is clean, clear oil. Odorously, I also do not type on engine oil. Someone a tip where the sauce could come from? Or could it be oil residues that are still before the dew. I’ve already told the free workshop that an engine wash would have been helpful…would that have been done? But I have to make sure that the switchgear is tight…..the stench is annoying, and at some point when there is no more oil in it, the gears will dissolve…. Functions are doing well at the moment. Thanks in advance for qualified tips! Greeting Andy

Hello for help, I drive a 407 SW 2.2 170 Biturbo, year 06.2007, and have already the second time the problem that my consumption after changing from winter tires (originally bought from Peugeot, 215/17 on aluminium without tire pressure sensor; not available) on summer tires original Peugeot with tire pressure sensor, the consumption suddenly goes from approx. 8l/100Km in winter mixed operation to 12l/100Km. The consumption indicator also goes during sliding operation, when push off not below 3.5 L/100 un d with normal acceleration I have fast times 20 – 22 L on the display. Furthermore, when rolling in column traffic increases at approx. 50 – 60 km/h in the 4.od.5. gear without that I give gas the display also always from approx. 5.1 L up to 12 L. There it stays then and I can follow on the tank clock as the fuel becomes less. The problem by the way only occurs with operating warm engine. As soon as I come over about 70° water temperature I notice for approx. 1 minute an unround motor run in the Stan d or a “swallowing” of the engine when I’m accelerating. Then everything is OK again, except for the consumption, which increases by 50%. At the idle speed of approx. 850-1000 rpm, depending on whether AC OFF/ON does not change anything. Last time I was in the workshop, however, they could not find anything and did not make a software update for safety reasons. So the problem was also solved. However, it can’t be that after every winter exchange on summer tyres and d amit activation of tire pressure control, need a SW update. Can anyone help me here the ev. also had the same problem? I am grateful for any serious advice. LG, JoeCool68

Moin, I looked at a nice Peugeot 406 Coupe earlier, rather by chance. A search on the Internet brought about practically nothing about this model except “adventure and pretty”. All I read about purchase advice is “you have to be clear about the high spare parts prices and maintenance costs”. What I would like to have is a technical purchase advice. Where are the weak points, where do I have to look for rust, what suspension parts like, what will be really expensive everywhere. is only to read that the Coupezpecifish parts are more expensive, but what are these parts that sometimes break in everyday life? (car body parts are covered in the majority of (Un)cases by the insurance.) What I can collect is: – Exhaust probably only a few years durability – non-specific electrical problems (WAS?) – Brakes probably worn out quickly Does the newer 2.2l petrol engine already have a control chain? Thank you!

Evening people! And that’s…My 406 Break 2.0 Gasoline EZ: 12/2003 has funny modifications. 1.) The clutch has a slight Widerstand, which occurs at the end of one-coupling path. It feels like a “knack”. This occurs from time to time, especially when driving underboard. 2.) In idle, clutch is not pressed, whims/mistakes it very quietly. When the clutch is kicked, it is gone. In addition, when the switch lever moves back and forth in idle, no matter if the dare n runs or doesn’t– that’s what he’s been doing since today. I took some pictures of the gearbox in the appendix. Since light oil drips out… looks for itself.. could that be the fault? (the climate compressor also oils, looks even on the picture, is that bad?)

My car is currently similar to a large construction site. In order to pass the TÜV all brakes have to be made new. Now I have already dismantled the rear brakes (clusters, discs/drums, partly parking brake) and partly also the front brakes. Spare parts are ordered. Now I have found that I also need new anchor plates at the rear. The left one is already completely rotten (so probably also the heinous noises during my last rides). But I did not find any anchor plates for my vehicle. At Peugeot itself cost over 100 € – for such a bit of sheet metal!!! 1. Does someone know a source, where I get cheap anchor plates for the rear brake of my Peugeot 406 II Break 2.0 16V (99KW), year 05/1999? 2. What torque is a) required for the anchor plate mounting screws, b) wheel bearing screw, c) brake caliper screws (also in front)? At the wheel bearing screw I read something of 200Nm. Is that true?

Was just in the workshop, made winter tires on it and when wearing it meant that it was kind of funny to wear and if that were really the right wheel bolts, of course, only those of Alus did not fit and just made them out. Couple of technical terms thrown but I forgot about it little idea and already in excitement, should drive to Peugeot and ask if the wheel bolts were somehow called back or if it all fits like that. Only there are no Mech today now I don’t know if I should drive (wanted to do 100 km today). Did I still think that there was something like that with Renault and the place around wheel bolts on rim got cracks or something, I don’t know, so I still know that they had 100 with the torque wrench so far as I know how it should be. Now the question if someone knows what it’s about and if I can drive with it? Is a 407 of 2004, 2.0 HDI. gt if a specialist sees something about it. I would be very happy about a timely answer

Hi! Since 2005 drive a Nissan Maxima 2.0 Bj 99 So slowly it gets old and rusty, ahb also recently coupler changed, now also servo sweats somewhere. But still drives well (171000 km). Now I want to look for something new, and on e.g. this 407 peugeot 407 but have on the internet and especially here in forum, that there are many problems with the 407, like e.g. servo failures or climate. I have also heard of carrying joints and co. Should I rather let it be with the 407, or isn’t it a piece of junk like I sometimes imagine after some topics here? Greetings, Alex

Hello, we play with the thought to sell the 407 SW. For this reason yesterday as today someone was there who wanted to test him. (unfortunately again all strange guys want to take with them the best still money, for that they take the vehicle) Yesterday everything was ok, the guy kicked on the gas etc., a few little things many him of course on etc. (no eye-catching, except the belt strapper/airbag error the cable, see other thread I wanted to make still) Today I am of the opinion that he deliberately distracted us to manipulate the vehicle. He had removed the cover from the engine block (i.e. the plastic cover), did not run round and what he still said. We had let him drive alone, it also took quite a long time until he came back. Then, only step speed, errors in the display: “Faultmeltung: Motor error – vehicle repair” Frauchen said that we had already had that already when we did kickdown in cold condition ten, that was after 3 days or so away again (or over kilometers, I know what) Personally the mistake was new to me. Anyway, not only the error lighted up, at once the engine runs quite unevenly, or it wobbles as if it is loose at once. Strangely only that the guy went down in price, only hobbyists carre etc. Engine damage, after we still refused, he went up with the price, drove away, came back at once, etc. (somehow strange) Can it be that he has loosened something that suddenly swings like this? We had never before. I also had read the following about this error: Quote: in the area of the throttle flap sits a small black plastic hose, approx. 8 cm long with 90° bow, approx. 3 mm inner and 8 mm outer diameter. On one side it was swollen and porous. Fixed changed and everything is good again. Quote end. Because that came again and again, it seems very strange to us, since yesterday also That with the kick down is apparently known or brake + gas at the same time (or so) compels this error. How can I look now in the engine room what it could be all at once?