Category: Rover Forum

Hello guys, I have a problem with my space star. It no longer starts. The starter spins. Fuel is in. The sprite pump also promotes. Spark plugs are new. Battery also has over 12v voltage. And now I am puzzled what I should check next. I have read it out via OBD and found no errors in the error memory would be asking if Mitsubishi doesn’t. Still a separate protocol can only be read out separately. Otherwise I saw if the backup Maybe someone had a similar case…. Well, the last time I ran the car, I just parked it for a short time and maybe let it run 1-2min. But since then, several weeks have passed. The spark plugs didn’t make the impression on me that they were wet either. When I had upgraded them today.

Hi guys, I hope you can help me. I’ve been driving the car since then, more and more metal scratching sounds in the left front axle area. Now I have it also at normal temperatures and when I drive through potholes or floor waves. So I drove to Mitsubishi and made an official order of it. They have broken down the front tires, cleaned the shock absorber pistons, determined that my brakes are an 8 (which I already know by an other I would like to order the parts, but I don’t know what these stabilizer joints are (one looks like it’s slightly twisted). Could a specialist please tell me what this is for a part or even better place a link so that I know what to order there? I have a straight bar with several grapples or a coupler bar with two heads. I hope you can help me.

Since I came across the SpaceStar during the second-hand car search, I have the following questions to the experienced users: can the start-stop system be switched off simply and temporarily and be reactivated for the HU investigations? Supposedly a separate cable is located from the battery plus pole to the start-stop system, if this is correct an intermediate switch could be installed here e.g… Who has what experience with the CVT transmission? Since the tire pressure control system via the ABS fun Do sensors have to be installed when changing tyres? Does a SpaceStar itself have an AHK installed? If yes feasible as a hobby screwdriver? Thanks in advance for useful contributions

Hello dear community, I now have a problem with my car for the second time. At the end of September 23 he didn’t get started, then I called the ADAC and he identified the problem as an error in the anti-theft device. According to his statement, he kept the “Close” button pressed from the remote control and drove around with it close to the steering wheel. After that, the car started. Unfortunately, I didn’t see that because I was exactly there to get the spare key. Now I’ve got r exactly the same problem and I tried it that way, but it doesn’t work. The car has power and sounds like it’s going to start, but then suddenly it’s strangled. Does any of you have experience with it, or should I call ADAC?

Hello Community, I have a Space Star 1.0 52kw 10/2019 and would like to learn a lot about the chassis. I am concerned about the different angles, spring distances, distances in the wheel box and ground clearance. As standard 165/65R14 are installed on steel rims with not known dimensions. How do the steering values look here? What is the “scrub radius” steering radius? How much clearance is within the wheel box? Which tyre sizes are possible without a rack? use?

I bought a used car on Saturday, according to Garagist from service and fresh checked. Now I am in my garage today and they looked at the car, a service was definitely not made, the battery is very weak and the rubber on both crossbars are torn (make at most 3.4 months). I called the garage and called these defects, he apparently knows nothing. Now I insist that he replaces them. He replaces the battery tomorrow and d I’ll show him the crossbar tomorrow with the photos. Now it’s questionable how to get through the vehicle inspection at the traffic office, my Garagist said. How do you find the crossbars? I insist that he replaces them. How much do you want it? I have 4 months warranty on the car. Sorry don’t live in DE and have no idea how you say the drivebars that are every 2 years.

Hello forum, I have registered today to get to a problem where I just can’t get any further…Vehicle: Mitsubishi Dion, year 2000 (unfortunately not selectable in the forum, but similar to the Scpace Runner)Error picture: The turn signal does not work regularly. Warning flashing works. The turn signal goes when the lever first sets (right or left is no matter) and IF the ignition turns on. Then it flashes in the chosen direction. If you then choose a different direction, v The Blink direction does not change. Thus, the change of the Blink lever is only recognized if the ignition is turned off and on again. The same can be achieved if the plug on the steering wheel is pulled off, which is responsible for the Blinker wiring and plugs in again. As a rule, the Blink lever change is detected both when pulling and when plugging.What has already been tested: I checked all fuses, the relay and the wiring – especially the grounding. b actually two defective/dead fuses and a grounding connection that did not work cleanly. However, that was not the case. In the wiring it is the case that it is a converted right handlebar, which was converted to left (bin in South America). The wire harness extension was simply twisted and wrapped with insulating tape… I now soldered all these and covered them with shrink hose. Before, one could create a “reset” by shaking, probably because This is now over. I also checked the voltage of the battery and can confirm that it cannot be the cause either. Does anyone have any idea how to proceed with the search? The relay works fine, because the blinking actually works, if you use the said procedure with ignition or plug in/pull in again. The fuses should now be no longer a question. Wiring and/or grounding there are still extremely many construction sites. I also tested the cables from the switch to the relay box. All all throughout and no short on it. Be happy about every tip! Best regards Karsten

Hello, I have read a lot about the following problem here and in other forums but I couldn’t really find a solution. And that’s when the brake jams the back right now and then. It started just before New Year’s Eve. Then I noticed when I was driving that the car braked, arrived at the destination after a few kilometers, I noticed a crack at the mature back right and the rim was hot. After cooling the problem was gone. I reported all this in the workshop and it was immediately the B Remssattel changed. After that was a short rest and it started again… I drove a small piece of highway and Innerorts after a traffic light the car began to develop a resistance again, drove to the right and saw that the brake block in the rear right was squeaking, after about 20 minutes cooled down classes then went again. Again to the workshop and then was tapped on hand brake rope this was set with the adjusting screw to a minimum of clamping force and the brake became freer. 2 Weeks went well, then again the whole… I have already read several threads, but in most of them it was not reported how it was solved or if it might have been due to ABS. Some might have been quilled brake lines, but as with ABS it was not reported. MfG Johny_Firpo

Hello guys, I’m new on this page, but I need some help: My girlfriend drives a Mitsubishi colt czc EZ12/2008, 80 kw. At the back right the electric window lifter is defective and an insert is no longer available (not built anymore…) (replacement part number MN 301 859). Has someone experience with it and possibly a source or who knows someone who can repair it if necessary (at least tried). Thank you for your help Charly