Category: Rover Forum

  • CVT gearbox – Start-stop – Tyre pressure control system

    Since I came across the SpaceStar during the second-hand car search, I have the following questions to the experienced users: can the start-stop system be switched off simply and temporarily and be reactivated for the HU investigations? Supposedly a separate cable is located from the battery plus pole to the start-stop system, if this is correct an intermediate switch could be installed here e.g… Who has what experience with the CVT transmission? Since the tire pressure control system via the ABS fun Do sensors have to be installed when changing tyres? Does a SpaceStar itself have an AHK installed? If yes feasible as a hobby screwdriver? Thanks in advance for useful contributions

  • Problem at startup

    Hello dear community, I now have a problem with my car for the second time. At the end of September 23 he didn’t get started, then I called the ADAC and he identified the problem as an error in the anti-theft device. According to his statement, he kept the “Close” button pressed from the remote control and drove around with it close to the steering wheel. After that, the car started. Unfortunately, I didn’t see that because I was exactly there to get the spare key. Now I’ve got r exactly the same problem and I tried it that way, but it doesn’t work. The car has power and sounds like it’s going to start, but then suddenly it’s strangled. Does any of you have experience with it, or should I call ADAC?

  • Questions about chassis geometry and tyre sizes

    Hello Community, I have a Space Star 1.0 52kw 10/2019 and would like to learn a lot about the chassis. I am concerned about the different angles, spring distances, distances in the wheel box and ground clearance. As standard 165/65R14 are installed on steel rims with not known dimensions. How do the steering values look here? What is the “scrub radius” steering radius? How much clearance is within the wheel box? Which tyre sizes are possible without a rack? use?

  • Crossbars Rubber brittle/cracked

    I bought a used car on Saturday, according to Garagist from service and fresh checked. Now I am in my garage today and they looked at the car, a service was definitely not made, the battery is very weak and the rubber on both crossbars are torn (make at most 3.4 months). I called the garage and called these defects, he apparently knows nothing. Now I insist that he replaces them. He replaces the battery tomorrow and d I’ll show him the crossbar tomorrow with the photos. Now it’s questionable how to get through the vehicle inspection at the traffic office, my Garagist said. How do you find the crossbars? I insist that he replaces them. How much do you want it? I have 4 months warranty on the car. Sorry don’t live in DE and have no idea how you say the drivebars that are every 2 years.

  • Blinker only reacts when you “reconnected” it

    Hello forum, I have registered today to get to a problem where I just can’t get any further…Vehicle: Mitsubishi Dion, year 2000 (unfortunately not selectable in the forum, but similar to the Scpace Runner)Error picture: The turn signal does not work regularly. Warning flashing works. The turn signal goes when the lever first sets (right or left is no matter) and IF the ignition turns on. Then it flashes in the chosen direction. If you then choose a different direction, v The Blink direction does not change. Thus, the change of the Blink lever is only recognized if the ignition is turned off and on again. The same can be achieved if the plug on the steering wheel is pulled off, which is responsible for the Blinker wiring and plugs in again. As a rule, the Blink lever change is detected both when pulling and when plugging.What has already been tested: I checked all fuses, the relay and the wiring – especially the grounding. b actually two defective/dead fuses and a grounding connection that did not work cleanly. However, that was not the case. In the wiring it is the case that it is a converted right handlebar, which was converted to left (bin in South America). The wire harness extension was simply twisted and wrapped with insulating tape… I now soldered all these and covered them with shrink hose. Before, one could create a “reset” by shaking, probably because This is now over. I also checked the voltage of the battery and can confirm that it cannot be the cause either. Does anyone have any idea how to proceed with the search? The relay works fine, because the blinking actually works, if you use the said procedure with ignition or plug in/pull in again. The fuses should now be no longer a question. Wiring and/or grounding there are still extremely many construction sites. I also tested the cables from the switch to the relay box. All all throughout and no short on it. Be happy about every tip! Best regards Karsten

  • Brake rear right grinds from time to time

    Hello, I have read a lot about the following problem here and in other forums but I couldn’t really find a solution. And that’s when the brake jams the back right now and then. It started just before New Year’s Eve. Then I noticed when I was driving that the car braked, arrived at the destination after a few kilometers, I noticed a crack at the mature back right and the rim was hot. After cooling the problem was gone. I reported all this in the workshop and it was immediately the B Remssattel changed. After that was a short rest and it started again… I drove a small piece of highway and Innerorts after a traffic light the car began to develop a resistance again, drove to the right and saw that the brake block in the rear right was squeaking, after about 20 minutes cooled down classes then went again. Again to the workshop and then was tapped on hand brake rope this was set with the adjusting screw to a minimum of clamping force and the brake became freer. 2 Weeks went well, then again the whole… I have already read several threads, but in most of them it was not reported how it was solved or if it might have been due to ABS. Some might have been quilled brake lines, but as with ABS it was not reported. MfG Johny_Firpo

  • Mitsubishi Colt czc window lifter rear right broken

    Hello guys, I’m new on this page, but I need some help: My girlfriend drives a Mitsubishi colt czc EZ12/2008, 80 kw. At the back right the electric window lifter is defective and an insert is no longer available (not built anymore…) (replacement part number MN 301 859). Has someone experience with it and possibly a source or who knows someone who can repair it if necessary (at least tried). Thank you for your help Charly

  • Space Star select + retrofit with Android Auto Wireless

    I have now ordered this part:https://www.amazon.de/…/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?… and hope that I can use it in my Space Star select +. If this works I can forget the annoying plugging of the mobile phone to the USB port. I have contacted the seller and also got answer. So, he means: Mitsubishi motor Due to the construction of the USB port, the power supply of the USB port can be insufficient, resulting in a nic ht successful connection leads. Please contact me if there are problems with the product when connecting. I can offer you a solution, thank you! Well my question, has someone already set up such a thing, if yes with which hardware and runs the connection stable? Thanks already to you and a nice weekend

  • Do not get the brake vented + fixed guide bolts at the Colt

    Hello all, it is a Colt 2007, 1.3 petrol with disc brake at the rear. At the back left the TÜV tester criticized the carrying image. I first tried to vent the brake and did 30 pumping operations with a helper and accordingly the nipple 30 times open and turned on. It only hissssss and hardly a drop of brake fluid comes out there. There seems to be an incredible amount of air in there. The other three brakes were good, there almost no air came out. We didn’t do anything wrong when venting, we already did it on some vehicles. However, I read that sometimes it shouldn’t work so easily with vehicles with ABS. Do I have to pay attention to something? Or did I have too little patience and we just have to try it for longer? The liquid level in the tank went down a little after all. Did the venting then stop first. Furthermore, the upper guide bolt is fixed, which is now turning at least, The bolts must definitely be new and I hope I can just get them out like that. Maybe someone has a tip. But my main question is: How could so much air get into the system? The caliper looks good, the hose looks good, too. Everything is dry, and the piston is flashy under the cuff. Or did it come through excessive heat from the solid guide bolt, that then such a huge amount of air will arise there at e twas older brake fluid? By the way, this was still quite bright everywhere. Would that only have liked to have clarified in order to find the possible cause and not only to repair.

  • Reset tyre pressure control

    Halli hello, at our space star 2020 have just made the summer flaps on it, of course the system has directly moaned. Then have set on the tank 4x 2.4, and it still complains. In the display front there is a “window” there is no 2, and it is the ripening pressure symbol displayed, when I press long on it makes it short beep, but the 2 stops and the error message is still there. Please help.