Category: Saab Forum

  • Unexplained leak in the gearbox

    Hello together, I have a problem. My Clio 2 with 1.2 l 16 V and 75 hp has a leak on the gearbox. I determined this on Monday, changed on it all rubber parts (folding bellows, axle cuffs). This morning I see again a few drops of transmission oil on my parking space. Where they come from, I don’t know. Does an oilproof additive also help with the gearbox??? I am looking for a cheap option!!! I can’t afford a workshop, I have been working for more than three years. Incapacitated, get only social benefits because it is still not clear whether I will be available again to the labour market in the foreseeable future or not. Therefore I roll as well as I can around the car myself To get to the doctors and the therapies I am dependent on the car, would be happy if I got here quick tips greeting Michael

  • Clio 1.2 16V / BJ 2003 / 160t km / Is a timing belt still worth changing?

    Hello together, maybe my question sounds a bit strange but I’m looking forward to your opinions: I’m actually very satisfied with my Clio and so far no big expenses have been due. Now, however, the question is slowly whether I should invest the investment of a new timing belt at a BJ 2003 and just over 160t km (annual driving performance 30t km). Clio was bought with 110t km used and unfortunately can’t say if or when the timing belt was changed last. uelles Werkstatt offer is at 650€ (incl. water pump) – fair offer? Thank you for your opinion/reviews.

  • Suffering topic H7 pear burned out

    Hello, it’s time again, after not even 4 years 2x the light bulbs in the front (abbreviation light, let each two pears change, incl. curve light bulbs) have been changed, as far as an old well-known, elaborate and relatively expensive topic with my mode (EZ 1/2005, my last change cost me, as far as I had recovered from my fainting so to the 180,- EUR for a bulb change!). Since the topic was discussed already several times here, I once in different Other directions thought: 1. Xenon-Birnen 2. LED-“Birnen” 3. “Downgrade” on H4 4. additional daytime driving light. I assume that it probably needs completely new headlights for 1. to 3. – there are these at all for retrofitting for the mode and what would all this cost about? Why H4? I had with my previous cars, although H4 supposedly hotter, worse etc. are never such a problem that I have constantly burned pears (even with my old kla not ppprigen R4) 🙁 Zu 4.: Is an extension useful or possible here and what would that cost about? In addition, I would like to note that fog lamps are already in the bumper, as far as this could be relevant.

  • Buy used Renault Megane for 25tkm/year

    Hello all, I am currently looking for a second car with which I want to drive in future 2x to 3x weekly 250km work path (50% highway, 50% highway). At then about 25tkm a year makes definitely a diesel sense, I think. Now I have looked for a bit with the following criteria (from BJ 2011, to 90tkm, from 90hp, to 9000 EUR) and found among other things two offers for Renault Megane: once a saloon 1.5 liter with 106hp, BJ 2011 with 76tkm and once a Grandtourer 1.5 dCi with 110hp, BJ 2012 with 89tkm. If I want to drive the cars then about 6 years, they would be at 240 to 250tkm. How are the experiences with the Megane? Does that power this mileage without any problems? I recently had an Audi A4 1.9 TDI, which was still completely problem-free at 250tkm. And a second question would be: Are there any expensive standard repairs such as timing belt changes or the like? At which mileage would they be?

  • From the exhaust comes white smoke

    My dear; I need urgent help.. last week I picked up the car from the workshop any joints were replaced + pickerl was made. Now my problem while driving I had white clouds + power drop already right after the start. test half in the stand gave gas and it sounds like howls. No oil or water loss .. Is my turboloader defective?

  • Cylinder head gasket capput and oil in the cooling circuit

    Good morning, I was in the workshop yesterday with my Renault Megane Grandtour built in 2006 due to oil loss, after cleaning you started the car and already came down a lot of oil out. On the bill it says: engine and transmission strongly oiled Result: cylinder head seal defect (pistons were rinsed) a lot of oil in the cooling circuit cylinder 3- piston has bulges (weared) The workshop would be estimated for repair at least 3000€, but can also quickly m Do you have experience with it and can you tell me if I have to scrap the car now or is there anything else to save?

  • How likely is a crack in the block after overheating of the engine?

    Hello guys, how likely is it that when the engine was running fast and overheating the block was torn and not “only” the ZKD burned through? My car was now standing in the workshop since October, after I had the box on the highway boiled empty. Diagnosis of the towper – “ZKD durch”. Then I got all the necessary parts and brought them into the workshop. ZKD, stretch screws, WaPu, timing belts and all the stuff. Now the cart cooks after 1.. 2 minutes always Now, of course, I am thinking about whether I should sell the pile as a hobby box or take even more money into my hand. If the block has a crack, then I would not get around a new engine as well as the reassembly of the new parts like WaPu and timing belts. If a crack in the block is very untrue, then almost “only” a warped head remains, which could be changed comparatively cheaply. The car only got new HU and new brakes in front shortly before the defect, the climate has been filled and otherwise also a lot has been renewed. Would now be a pity. Would be grateful for experiences, tips and theses.

  • As soon as I stop and check approx. 3 sec. car in idle -> injection

    Hello, my car Megane 2 Bjhr. 6/2006 1.9 dci 131 PS 333/AFC 172Tkm, now has a problem! I start the car and when I start the car directly (without the car getting into idle), everything is top. It pulls perfectly, runs normally calmly. so everything is normal. As soon as I stop and run about 3 sec. the car in idle (800 rpm) appears in the display “Injection check and the maintenance key lights” to which the car goes into the emergency running program(Lower U/min m Ax 120 km/h)! I start the car after 3 min. new the error message is gone and it drives back normal as long as I don’t get in the idle (light gas nozzle at the traffic light etc.) prevents that! That’s crazy. What can that be? Topics: Engine, RENAULT Megane Details about the vehicle: Kombi, built in 2006, 131 hp, 1870 ccm, diesel, manual transmission, 172000 km

  • Megane III Grandtour dci 130 – Kaufberatung

    Hello dear Renault community I need some help from you. I’m looking for a car for my mother. After some search I also came across a Renault. I didn’t find a comparison of the Megane after some search at least with the equipment. Would you have a pair of tips on what I have to pay attention to with the car? I already know from a friend that I should pay attention to the brakes and whether the lens is fogged with the xenon headlight or not. Kl Assiker like checkbook care and so are clear. Thanks already in advance Saturday is already arranged visit date. P.S. Price technical was 8000 Euro the border of my mother. Great through the world history she also did not want to drive, of that we have so in about the triangle Dresden-Leipzig-Chemnitz as distance (if someone likes to offer alternatives. http://suche.mobile.de/…/221586836.html?…

  • Starter defective or anything else ???

    Hello guys, as you can see I’m completely new here and need help and opinions about a problem with my ́99 Megane Grandtour, 1.6 16V (3004 / 593). My wife drove as normal last week as always when the car simply went off. When trying to restart, the battery completely failed. We have now towed the car home and I assumed the LiMa is defective, an exchange LiMa built in and also immediately renewed the V-belt. After that the battery was charged about 14 hours. Now I wanted to start the car, but at first only a short glare of the engine came (as if the battery were empty), then only still… The starter doesn’t make a sound anymore. At the start attempt you only hear the petrol pump work and then nothing comes. If I hold a voltmeter to the battery, it shows 12.7 V. If the ignition key is turned on ignition, 12.5 V and at the key continue turning (start position) it is 12.3 V. So d he battery is not to blame… I think. For the sake of caution, I have to push the car once in the 4th gear attempt to rule out that the engine is stuck, which also worked. Everything turned with it. At the starter I measured the supply line and the control line (if that is called the one that comes from the ignition lock), both have full voltage. The control line, of course, only when the ignition key is turned. I only changed the starter three weeks ago, because the already def ekt was, but is he already gone again, or do I miss anything ??? Has any of you experienced a tip or similar ??? Many greetings, Micah