Category: Saab Forum

Servus together, has a Renault Trafic 2 since May of this year and now has the following problem. If I have to drive and brake from my garage with a cold engine to the road junction (coupling has gone through) the engine chokes itself almost by itself, but shortly before dying it catches itself again. However, the problem only occurs if I have to brake, if I let it roll out it runs quite normally in the stationary gas. Is quite annoying, maybe someone can help me further. mfg Auto data:Renault Trafic 2 1.9dci Bj 2004

Good day for now! As an “old” driver I had to be surprised when my workshop told me that my Kangoo 1.6 16V, year 2012 would need new brake discs in front and rear. There the vehicle had only 34000 km on the clock. Today it is 38000 km and the windows look accordingly. Flooring is still very good. My selling workshop said that would come from a lot of standing! I drive now since 1970 among other things also cars, but I have not experienced such a thing yet. Our ” Second car” (Nissan Note) got the first disks ahead at 160000 km. Years ago I had a Toyota Celica and there were at km 150000 still the first disks inside. Also with the previous Fiat Doblo, 1,9, turbodiesel, the disks had to be changed only at approx. 120000 km. Has today’s quality become so bad that the disks can not even withstand a covering life? And a repair in a “specialist workshop” (not brand) should be between 1000 and 1200 € And this is to say the least, a mess, especially since I have to finance the vehicle as a small renter. And now my question: Where do I get inexpensive brake parts from ATE or other well-known manufacturers.

Hello, I have a problem with a Master 2,5 dci (114 hp) from 2003 with the GU9 engine. The vehicle has no exhaust gas recirculation or AGR valve. First of all the story: The engine had a problem with the headwheels, which were partly completely destroyed and thus neither the steering times of the camshafts nor the position of the gear of the injection pump were still correct during removal. What was done: All the headwheels renewed. All injectors renewed, or against general überh OT-Gerber of the crankshaft renews camshaft sensor renews timing belts with deflection, & tension roller renewed. Control times of camshafts and position of the drive wheel of the injection pump are correctly positioned according to the workshop manual. Diesel lines (pre and return) are properly connected. Compression test is usually not stored in memory!!!! It remains to be mentioned that the engine has made terrible noises The problem is as follows: The vehicle does NOT have a hand pump or pre-shipment pump in the tank or inlet but only a suction pump appears in the injection pump and you can hear that when the ignition is switched on, it then runs for a few seconds before it shuts down if it doesn’t start. The system also doesn’t pull air and the fuel we d is also introduced to the high-pressure pump. The problem is that no diesel will reach the rail pipe even after long start-ups. or even a little bit of pressure is built up. Also the return from the rail pipe or even the injectors remains dry. I really have no idea anymore and hope you still have one!

Hi, I bought Fiat Talento Sportivo. Since this one is identical to the Trafic I have a question to Trafic3 owner. At my Talento back left in the trunk at the last window holm lacks an interior cladding. On the right this is present. In case of lack of indication with my dealer he meant that that would be so original. Can anyone explain that to me? Right is disguised and left is not? Do the designers of Renault have a slight damage or is the statement of my dealer wrong. At the photo left without disguise and right with.

Hello in the round, am new here and say first of all thank you that there are you! I recently bought a WoMo from Knaus on Renault Master 2 basis and wish me that it will stay that way longer. Now as you can read, WoMos often stolen (like probably everything else also :-)) According to my research a lot is written about secret switches to interrupt the starter relay or the fuel pump, but unfortunately nothing concrete for “my” model – I did not want to My goal: a switch or button that needs to be activated so that the starter starts with additional stop rotation of the key at position start – virtually a series switching of button/switch and ignition lock. Since I have relatively little experience with car electrics (not with electricals in general!) tips would need which line to interrupt/connect via the switch/switch to make this work. Line cross section, switching power of the switch/switch, etc. I w hot, the opinions on these anti-theft efforts go very far apart here, but that, coupled with an OBD protection and ??? costs time and thieves are always in a hurry 🙂 Thank you very much in advance! Best regards

Hello together, in the company we have a Renault Trafic (built in 2020) and ask ourselves if it is possible to deactivate the remote control. So it would be ideal if you could only open and close the Trafic by key in the lock, quasi like before 😉 The background is that unfortunately with a replica radio remote control the car was opened and broken in. By turning off the radio opening we want to exclude at least one possibility, the car too in the guide can not really find something to do with it. Thanks for every feedback, Horst