Good evening to all have thought of posting here once, in the hope someone might have had the error already. Have a Renaul Clio 2 bj 2000 . Unfortunately the engine runs partially white only on three pots. So ignition system tested, sparks was there. Sprit also comes. then I tested compression with the following values. CALTS STAND Zyl 1 : 4.5 bar afterwards few drops of oil pure , it comes to 7 bar Zyl 2-4 are all in the green area. approx. 11 bar after that I tested it in warm condition , because if the engine operating temperature it runs “almost” round. Warm condition Zyl 1 8.5 bar with oil almost 12 bar. Think that should be the piston rings. It has now run 149 000 km. Had someone experience with the engine? Thank you for your answers. Greetings Warm condition
Category: Saab Forum
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Headlamp adjustment
We have a 20-year-old Renault Clio and it is still running well despite its age. Now it has been criticized by the TÜV that the automatic for the headlight adjustment does not work. Now the question is, does this model already have an “automatic” for the headlight adjustment? Although it has a rotary knob under the amatur board for this, but it doesn’t have to mean that you can talk about automatics, right? Can it not be a mechanical device (so ne’ Art Bo wdenzug )? At least nothing happens when turning on the button. And at the front of the headlight itself, it is already set in the highest position (which can be done with the screwdriver). Despite this, it was also criticized in this context that the headlights are still too low. Can someone give us a tip – except to go to the workshop, which are usually quite expensive. Anyway, we don’t want to buy much new parts for the car anymore.
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How much more is little Clio worth?
Hi, who the little Clio has no longer come to the TÜV, the question arises, how much is the “rest” still worth. pays off a repair, or rather sell the “rest” to hobbyists and invest the money in a new one. Clio II -blue metallic -airbags front -airbags side -climate -4doors -timers last replaced -engine consumes almost no oil -engine runs perfectly -172700 km run -accident-free, except on a slight sheet metal damage left side, which completely into a -1149 cm -58hp -EZ 2001 Why the TÜV wants the divorce: -Purchase rod head left inside out -wheel suspension front, carrying joint right out -alleged oil loss engine …I doubt that, because I know that I did something with the last oil change. -Brake discs and blocks front From a workshop we have a cost estimate of 850 euros for everything. What else would a hobbyist give for it? (winter tires for at least a winter would still be included in the price, almost new summer tires on aluminium at an additional cost 😉 ) If someone is interested directly, can also contact directly 😉 Stands near Bocholt (46395) Greeting Andre
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ASSISTANCE Clio 1 does not receive AU please for ASSISTANCE
Hello, my Clio 1 year 09/97 type C06 (with new engine ( Twingo machine)) does not get an AU & thus no tuv . Need urgent HELP, since I still have 2 weeks to pass the AU. Have already repaired the following: spark plugs & air filters are NEW Lambda probe has been renewed (marten damage) ( error message has been deleted) Exhaust manifold seal NEW Seal on the flame tube in front of the Lamda NEW All hoses checked above. t (is not the case ) I don’t know any more. The CO value is too high and the Lamda value too low. Urgently ask for your HELP MfG Andreas
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Megane II 1.6 16V 110 starts once, even not
After an indeterminate / apparently no regularity following time often or almost always the megane no longer starts. So the car can not start the next day after it was driven about 60 km, 120 km or more on the previous day or after 1 to 2 months no more, in which he was thus unused / undripped, but also 60 km, 120 km or more before the parking or otherwise a period of time. It should be said that the power is to be consumed after the car is switched off, although the car should not be able to consume electricity, since the power supply should be completely interrupted with the car closed from the outside. For example, car radio, the navigator operated by the cigarette lighter no longer works with the key card and the door opened, because the power supply is apparently interrupted, so it is as it should be. Some workshops say the consumption It is extremely improbable or not possible to find it (by measuring the perhaps existing current flow over a few days in the parked car), especially since it does not always use electricity after parking, i.e. sometimes after parking, is active or not. Other workshops think that the consumer can be found in this way. After each parking, the cable removes from the negative pole of the battery, so that the car is immediately connected to the cable. The old battery was replaced by a new one, probably even bigger, before something had changed in the behaviour. How could one best proceed to solve the problem?
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Please translate HU report German into driver German
Hello Schraubergemeinde. My Renault Megane 2 BJ 2005, 1.6 16v failed at HU. Can someone ever translate this into normal German 🙂 and what I have to buy. whether in pairs or one side. Up to point 3. 1. Track rod right inside Joint ejected 2. Load joint/driving joint 1. Axis down left 3. Brake disc 2. Axis right Traction deficient I would like to make as much as possible myself for money reasons. Do I need any special tool? The AU was not made at all, as a control indicator for engine control lights. Thank you in advance.
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Renault Megane 16V Built 2001- Idle speed too high.
Moin people. The following problem. When I start my Renault, it runs quite quietly. Depending on the temperature about 500 rpm. But if I have driven about 20km, the speed is idle at 1500 rpm. But that’s not always. Sometimes it’s also as if someone in the engine is gas. Then the speed varies between 1000 and 1500 rpm. Can this be on the idle controller?
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Instructions – Swap Scenic Clutch!
Good day, with my Scenic I have a “little problem, the clutch slips. Since the repair in the factory town is quite expensive, I would rather try myself. Have also someone who has experience in screwing. Now it is probably a lot of work at Scenic to replace the clutch. To exclude the biggest surprises I wanted to ask here at this point, who has done this at Scenic before, there is a useful repair instruction? I told myself So, what do we have to do, what’s the procedure? We only have a limited lift up, you can also tilt the engine down, and from there everything could be done, up to the top. Do I need special tools? If someone has something in mind always with it, I am grateful for any advice. Oh, so I don’t forget that someone knows a clever book in which the change is well described, always come back with the IS. BN or similar. Greeting Namcap Data Overview: Type: Megan Scenic Year of manufacture 1999 Engine: 1,6e Equipment: RT mileage: 127Tkm
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Megane 1 Cabrio 2.0 16V – Where can I find the verd… OT-Geber
I’m going through this (and other) forum looking for a photo of the location of the OT donor. I guess it’s somewhere below the air filter resonance body (drum/round). And there’s my next problem: I can’t get this c… air filter housing stuffed down to look. If someone had a tip (or even better: a picture, a tutorial) that would be great. I’m just missing the money right now to have the dealer swapped in a workshop (and I’m noc) h not even sure if he is responsible for the hot start problems – but one after another). Warm start problems: cold starts the box without problems. After a short distance (2, 3 km) usually also, after a longer distance (about 10 km) the starter turns briefly and then hangs. In some cases he turns after a short stalls still further and starts, after longer journeys (20 km and more) I can wait about an hour until the box starts again. “OT-Geber” sounds it back to the origin: where is this ominous part hidden in my engine? I am really grateful for any help. Also in advance already: thank you! PS: 108 kw. WFS disabled by code before start, because IR keys are broken.
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Check injection at idle and warm engine
Hello dear Renaultgemeinde, I have a Renault Megane II Bj 2006 1.9 dci FAP and a small problem. I have the error message “Injection check” in the display, now some of you will think, just use the search function of this topic has been treated here sufficiently. I have read through really a lot of posts on the topic and did not fit my case. The error message “Injection check” + yellow wrench come when: – the engine is warm (from water ance) ie just before the third vertical line) – the engine is about 3 sec in idle mode, e.g. when I drove for about 10 min (motor warm), hold at a red traffic light and insert the neutral gear or press the clutch (empty run) The error message disappears when I raise the motor turntable to approx. 900 1 / / min; ie drive. If the traffic light stays longer red (approx. 10 sec.) and then drive up, the error message + muzzle key remains in the display and I have a power loss (emergency run) at d the next red traffic light (or if I press the clutch 3 sec during the ride) disappears the error message again and I also have full engine power again (no emergency run). My workshop read out the error memory: – I mean it was the error P004, with a very funny description with which the service technician could not do anything on site – and a glow candle was def. I then renewed all four glow candles; even if the candles did not have anything with the error message has to do. (An error message after starting the engine, which pointed to a def. glow candle I did not receive funny way…) The workshop then decided for a software update of the engine control unit and changed the sensor on the intake tube test method. Unfortunately this did not lead to the desired success. Does a solution here? Thank you and greeting Andreas