Category: Saab Forum

Hi Together, I drive a Renault Clio from 2018 and have for about a year a defective at the Park Distance Controll and the rear driving light, which can not be fixed so far and no one has an idea where to start. Maybe there is someone among you who has an idea about it. The following is my topic: the PDC fails again and again (I notice the missing beeping at the back driving). At the same time the rear driving light is also without function (very unfavorable, since no one else If I want to drive backwards) Every time this error occurs, the Start Stop Automatic and start-up aid on the mountain also fails shortly afterwards. However, only when mN drives approx. 60km on the highway at a distance. Initially the securing of the PDC was renewed during the maintenance and the thing ran for about 6 months. Then the same error. First no PDC and the return light no longer shines. Then after approx. 60km, spontaneously also the Start Stop Automatic + start-up aid on the mountain a This time the whole 4 weeks was held. Same topic as before. I changed the third fuse then sslber. But only one more afternoon. Then again in another workshop. There the return switch was renewed and new fuse was installed. This worked whole 24 hours… I gave the Clio again for three weeks in the workshop, but no one dirt has even an idea what it could be. I hope e on your expertise and I am grateful for every hint. Best regards Jessi

Hello dear people. And again I need a professional advice. First of all to the car. It’s about a Renault Clio EZ.: 12/98 Zu2: 3004 Zu3:567 1.4 liter engine. So I should look at the car because a clear pulsation in the brake pedal is noticeable and also audible. Well you have heard that it actually comes from the front right. So wheel down brake tested everything chic. When turning on the brake disc then determined that the ABS ring is missing a piece. Funny way no ABS shines and nothing but that can only be to say this carefully. Well now looking for how to change the drive shaft joint best. Unfortunately, I always find only how to change an Achsmannschette and there is always only mentioned that you should extend the complete shaft and then from the gearbox side the Achsmannschette for the wheel side should push over it. But now I have to change the whole joint. Now I ask myself that you can even nic like any other manufacturer, does “knock” off the shaft? Do I have to change a complete drive shaft or does the joint change?? And would be nice if someone knew the suit value for the wheel bearing. I thank you already in advance. Mfg Sascha

Hello helpful people, I’ve already used the SuFu and I haven’t found my problem yet, so I hope there’s someone who can help. Renault Clio 1 from 1996 1149 cc engine capacity 40KW/54PS code to (2): 3004 code to D.2 with test number: 76000A 4 I can record an acute performance crash in 5th gear. It occurs at speeds from about 80km/h and has the consequence that the car takes about 40-50 seconds to accelerate from 80 km/h to 100 km/h in lead At 100 km/h (downhill also 115 km/h) is however finished! The problem is apparently independent of speed, because in lower gears at the same speed problem occurs. In other words: In urban traffic and low speeds in the 5th gear the problem does not exist. Furthermore, the car jerks. It just does not bring any power. The gearbox also sounds striking and it grinds or knocks. Neither audible nor as vibration in the gear knob. iten of >50km/h you hear a quiet squeaking (from the feeling I say from behind) that stops as soon as I brake. Whether this is related I do not know but every info is certainly important. Please ask if you need more information! I hope someone can help me or tell me what I could test. Already he-googled I have things like: What would you type and above all: How do I test this?! I thank you all in advance and wish you a nice day, Tobias

I greet you in advance I have to say that I am a newcomer to auto-tuning or carhifi tuning. my world belongs much more to juggling bits&bytes, i.e. software developers. so much more 🙂 so. I got an old car, the renault clio 1.4 RN and now I want to put power in the box. I thought about a cost-effective solution but still something fine and juicy. in the car everything is in the original condition, that means hifi moderately scrap. what I want to know now, what do I need to get in a decent sound? I thought of the following: – CD/MP3 Player – Final Level – 2 Boxes (For Back) – Subwoofer Is this so far right or do I need more stuff? Should this be the case now. What exactly do I have to pay attention to when buying, so that the components are well coordinated? I mean, does it matter if the purchased CD player has 4x 50W and the final level then 4x 100W(sinus)? Does it matter if the subwoofer more le istung has as the end stage, the whole again with the boxes? etc. etc. So what do I have to pay attention to when buying the end stage? What do I have to pay attention to when buying the boxes, the subwoofer? And what do I have to pay attention to with the CD player?

Hello Sportsfriends, my Clio, 1.2 Rn, Bj 92, constantly loses water, sometimes there is white water vapor in the exhaust gas (even with warm engine), sometimes starts off badly or mostly has not the full power. Do you think that could be the Zyl. head gasket? Would you like to replace it yourself, had changed half the car on my golf, but I have never disassembled the engine. What do you think is this as a talented, advanced hobbyist with numerous tools ( And with the book “now I help myself” to create? What do I have to pay attention to? Which seals do I need and where do I get them as cheaply as possible? Who can share his experiences with me in his exchange of poetry, and what problems do I have to pay attention to? Just, don’t be afraid of writing, I am happy about every helpful word and thank you very much.

I have seen a Renault Clio 1.9 dTi MTV (Edition): 80 hp diesel 63.100 km Year of construction: 2000 ABS airbag electric window lifter climate radio central locking CD radio servo (that can really not be mentioned as special equipment) I guess 8 times matured. 4are on the car *lol* and 4 were on the back bench groats ugly blue seat covers 7.390 Euro or 75 Euro leasing per monthNow to the questions: 1)How do you rate the price? 2)Where does a Clio have its weaknesses? 3) Will the 80 hp be enough for him? I like to drive on the highway across 160 and do not want to give up this pleasant cruising speed. 4) Can someone tell me the service intervals of a Clios? 5) What do the MTV Edition mean? There is even an MTV glue on the back, but the sound station won’t be in there. The radio looks just as ugly as the seats. 6) Are there seat covers to cover up the existing lightning blue ugliness to re-buy?

Servus, got yesterday a R4 which failed at the Tüv check. I don’t know yet, since I receive the letter only next week.The R4 has in front still brake drum seems to me to be an older model. But it has only 57000 km down. The wekstatt has the following challenged wheel brake cylinder in the rear leaks, brake cheeks also have to be ern.. Inequal brake values on the front axle at foot and hand brake. r worn-out tires at the back and a little rusting on the threshold at the front right.And the switchbar has a little bit of a game.Now I don’t really know about the R4 and ask for advice and it’s worth it to repererate it, where I get rep.infos and spare parts except at my friendly.The dashboard is also cut off at one end and the seats sinbd pretty much sat down Am for every advice Grateful

I once had the pleasure of configuring a Fox: 1.2 (three-cylinder!!) with 55 hp, red, servo, side airbag, radio climate and electric window lifter. So nothing special but what belongs to a car today almost into the basic equipment. Hold on: over 12,500 euros want them for it!!! I almost lifted myself from the chair I then configured a new Clio III (1.2, four-cylinder!!!) 65 hp with comparable equipment (more better). The Clio is cheaper!!! so stupid and buys such an ugly “cheap” car with three cylinders at such a price????