Category: Saab Forum

Hello guys, recently I have a problem with my renault grand scenic. The daily kilometer counter and the clock zeros at every engine start. What could it be? Thanks ahead.

The explanation was not as follows: “Yes, the measuring instrument shows too high values” but rather as follows: “Hello, yes, something is wrong somehow, we had to do 2 times new filters on the measuring instrument, there comes somehow totally a lot of water from the exhaust.” I then ask “yes and how were the values” “yes, the CO2 was much too high.” Could it be that a car at this bad tempera can I prevent the water in the exhaust after such a short distance drive? Can it also be that the catalyst does not change properly when there is still water in the exhaust? Then the shop wants me to change the catalyst and medium/muffler again. They are already worse and partly rusty, but somehow not so bad that they have to be changed. They said there were holes in it and they were leaking, but they never saw holes in it when I last looked down on the lift. Atu’s then thought they’d call me back if the real Tüv had looked at me. But didn’t. Does anyone know such a behavior? Whether they’ve done something wrong or something wrong? But most importantly, what can I do against the water in the exhaust? What do you have so He Do you always have to warm the car before, so that the exhaust gas examination did not fail? Who has ever done the exhaust gas examination in “winter”? And what do they mean by “wrong air”? They said something about false air. Are you talking about false air when the engine pulls false air inside, which confuses the regulation, or are you talking about false air when there is a hole in the exhaust, and the measuring device therefore measures false values?

The problem is that I don’t have much time until my Tüv runs out. Nevertheless, the brakes have to be tested on the test bench during the re-examination, although they are not yet properly braked. Is this a problem for the brakes? On the test bench the brakes are kicked very hard. Then did not the Brem have to be braked. Does this damage the wheel drum or only the brake pads?

Almost every day when I get into the car I have to set the clock again, because for a short time the power has failed. Why is that? The battery is fully one of Bosch has cost 200e. I used to never have the problem. It’s only been a few weeks now and it’s annoying because it also erases the driven kilometers. Now I bought such a battery pole protective spray color blue and thus sprayed in the contacts. But it didn’t do anything. What can that be?

Good morning together, for a friend we are looking for a semi-motorized compact car up to max. 7500/8000€. The decision is basically stuck with the Renault Megane TCe 180 Coupe. Will run out on one of the first models, i.e. BJ 2009, with hopefully max. 100,000. Can someone say something about the weaknesses? What must be paid special attention? In my view, you will not find so much information about the car, why ever. be, is that the coupling should be a weak point. Of course, would be unsightly if it actually affected all models, as a repair would simply become costly. The purchase is only planned for the spring. I have selected an example, what the car could look like then:http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… I thank you for every tip.

Hello, For some time now, when I switch the gears e.g. into the 2 gears, when I let the clutch pedal come back, so plug in, a dull blow. Strangely, the most in the 2.,3. and 4th gears in the 5th gear not, as well as when starting in the 1st gear. If I give abruptly gas, then there is also this blow. If I do the coupling quite carefully then I hardly make it at all. Also, the shift stick moves extremely, but as I read I don’t know if there’s a clutch defect or something worse. Drive shaft, bearing or something. Who can give me a tip or help me?Thank you. Andreas