Category: Renault Clio & Mode Forum

Hello everyone! My 1.2 16v ESM 75Ps Clio is only 14 days old, but unfortunately he had a visit to the engine room despite the defensive measures last weekend. Optical control showed no obvious damage, but this morning he went out immediately after starting. Started again and then about half a minute a bit rough in the idle and also the needle of the rev indicator twitched slightly. After that he ran perfectly all day. If demand in the workshop, they said, Is that true? Or is there something else in the bush? Can I drive a half way “safe” 20km to my workshop on Monday morning? Thank you for your help and a nice weekend.

Hello Renault-Forum, After 1.5 years I left behind two impossibly Renault workshops (one very unmotivated, the other very hard at least) and the technology center of Renault claims that such a problem does not exist, I hope for your help: I have already found a few entries on the topic here in the forum, but since nobody solved the problem and the entries were already older, I opened a new topic. On my Clio III (Grandtour, BJ 20 08, 1.5 deci, 86 hp) the amount of diesel consumed in the on-board computer never coincides with the amount of diesel consumed (and thus fuelled) (and thus the remaining data such as average consumption, range as little). The deviation (I always have to fill up more than the BC indicates) is usually about 10%, but in part it also reaches 20% and can also not be caused by different pumps, different full-fuelling, or similar. the deviation of the BC by a consumption journey was objectively proven. So far in the workshop tried to find the error on the side of the electronics, this was repeatedly reset, new software played up, “actual” and “shall values” compared. However, none of these reperature attempts led to a solution of the problem. After now also the second workshop is baffled, which could cause the error, I very much hope that someone can help me here and an idea has, what it could be, that there are deviations in the injection mege. Thank you!

Hello, I have the following problem with my Clio 3 1.5 dci 86PS built in 2007 and FAP. If I drive my car in cold condition constant 2000 revolutions in second gear uphill, always the message “Injection check” appears and the lamp with the mouth key lights up. The message remains about 4-5 minutes and goes out again. I drove to the Renaultwerkstatt Hab the error read out. The tester indicated that the sensor is defective after the Russian filter. Since the already last where The sensor was changed in front of the Russian filter. A temperature measurement was carried out and it was found that the temperature before the Russian filter was 80 degrees and the sensor after the Russian filter measured 120 degrees. From the logic it cannot be that the exhaust gases before the Russian filter must be warmer than the temperature after the Russian filter. The second sensor was installed and the error still exists. I was told in the workshop that if the Russian filter was changed, the sensor was changed before the Russian filter. Mistakes would come again that the ECU will be reprogrammed. What’s the point? Do you think that the error will disappear? I don’t understand the point for this action. I’m in real despair for the time being I’m very grateful for every further help Gruss Andreas

Good evening, today a nice shit happened to me while driving out of the driveway I missed a stone. On getting out I saw the damage then, at my Clio where usually the rear doors are, I now have beautiful deep scratches + dent in the car -.- when I turn left it clacks in the back, but I can not exactly arrange it where it comes from. The car is fully insured, do you think that I only have to pay my share of 300€? or what does it mean? how expensive can it be and can something else have broken? Built 11/2006 58 hp gasoline 81000km ran only 3.5 months ago brought by the dealer -.- mfg jojo0810

Tach Gemeinde! Again because of the Clio of my girlfriend: Clio II, 1.2 16V, 75 HP, Built 2003 I bought an inspection package for the car and saw that the spark plugs are very thin, or the required spark plug key has to be a 14 mm part. Where do I get that from? Was during the lunch break at ATU and at the Obi construction market! Nix to get! Also no normal plug key in SW 14! Does anyone have a tip for me? Thanks already!

Hello Have if the Clio 3 Warm is always speed fluctuations as if the just before went out, the distance is every 3-4 seconds, I have read in another forum that it is the crankshaft sensor that is broken. Can that be true? Does anyone have experience with?? The car now has 40000 KM on the hump And what does this look like with the CarGuarantee?? Can I just drive to the workshop and say please replace and then drive again?? What about costs because in the Inet reads I from 100€ contractually fixed flat rate, only in my contract is nothing of which Mfg

Hello, I’m new here and I’m trying to be informative. I bought a used Renault mode from a used car dealer in Sept. 2009. In the purchase contract (ADAC) the seller writes to the point “damage” … Left fender in front renewed and means literally … The previous owner touched the garage wall. Since I noticed for a few weeks oddities on the car, I got to know about the previous owner/DEKRA etc. and learn that the car – 7 months before my purchase – had suffered a total damage and was not repaired in a repair shop. The question is, can I make some money in some form? The car had 16000 km at the purchase and today 36000 km. The black sheep do not die out. MfG fst70

On Friday afternoon, an Audi A 6 rolled slightly into the rear of our Clio III. Situation was the following: I am standing in front of a closed railway barrier, engine is parked, first gear is inserted. Suddenly there is a neat jerk and a not exactly pleasant noise. First joint inspection after this light rempler with the driver (Audi A6), which has rolled with his car into the Clio-Heck, showed no visible damage. Neither paint damage, nor bumps. ild has a minimal, actually only palpable bump. Question is whether such low speeds (according to the Audi driver’s statement that the brake has slipped) could have caused damage that is visually not visible from the outside?! Would you have the Clio tested in a workshop or would that be too much effort? Many years ago (beginning of the 1990s) I slipped to a bollard in a traffic-stricken zone at Glat ice times at step speed. On the outside, except for a dented no. sign, nothing can be seen, but the lateral beam in the front had got a good deal. OK, the car was an Opel Astra, built in 1992… so, according to today’s standards, no longer as impact-resistant as perhaps a newer vehicle. One often hears that remplers are completely absorbed by the impact surfaces at speeds of up to 30 km/h. What would you do?

Moin, moin, Mein Clio I (Bj96 1,2l SN:3004760) has suffered a motor damage with 72,000, now I wanted to know which engine to install for it? I must also confess that I don’t really have a lot of idea of engines, let alone know a lot of cars at all. Anyway, I want to heal it again, have a clue with friends And now to the praised questions: Does that have to be exactly the same? Can the one of a clio II? can be the bigger one? Which code’s bz w. Identification data is important to order a replacement motor?

Hello. I’ve had a Clio IV Grandtour TCe 0.9 (90hp) with Start/Stop automatic (http://www.motortests.de/…/tce-90-grandtour-ftId135118 ). Other interesting features in this context: Luxe, “ECO” button, automatic climate control. Unfortunately, the Start/Stop automatic activates very rarely in this constellation: – air cooling off – outdoor temperature > 17°C (when the ECO button is activated it’s not that bad). Since I don’t see how to heat money (sprite), If I don’t really need it (up to 25°C I can handle it that way), I don’t see it to activate the air cooling. But that’s exactly when the start/stop automatic doesn’t work. Now I was friendly. It confirmed the problem and then kept the car there for two days to read out the values and discuss with the higher level. Result: vehicle corresponds to the standard level, is just like that. Explanation: During their test drives the battery had a charge of 79.5% – and only from 8 0% charge turns it off. On my note that after 10 minutes of highway the battery should probably be brim full anyway it is not possible I have learned that the battery had this charge during their entire test drive (79.5%) and highway can not test them (no near). The charge no longer was probably surprising. The battery was tested and found to be good. That with activated air cooling it is probably because then the engine is slightly higher Now I would like to know your experience: Can you understand that? Do you have any other experience? Can someone explain something (or speculate about it wildly)? I would also like to know what is better: a) Use air conditioning on and start/stop or b) Let air conditioning run out and run the engine for it. (Share both in the same way: City traffic in professional traffic and highway) Thank you and greetings ShadowSpirit P.S. I’m probably the first person who In all models, the automatic system otherwise works perfectly.