Category: Renault Megane, Scénic, R19 & Fluence Forum

Hello dear motor talk community. This is my first post. Have the following question: I am in the decision phase whether to buy a Megane Tce 180 or better equal to a Megane RS 250. According to my bill, the cost difference between both vehicles, with a driving performance of 15,000 km is about 600-700 euros for petrol, tax and insurance (have a relatively good SF class in the insurance), since I have been driving accident-free for 22 years. only the Tce 130 (this, however, is not in question for me) and the Tce 190. (should be a swallowing woodpecker) Before I really venture to the RS, (search factor) I ask around a bit, what experiences you have, especially with regard to the running costs. Would you buy the RS again, or, despite all the driving pleasure, decide against an RS? Rejoice me about your answers Greeting

Hi people, after the ZR change with my Scenic1 P2 with K4M engine inc. Change of the water pump, I now lose cooling water and can do all the work again. When the water pump was sealed, I was very careful and careful. The sealing surfaces were nicely cleaned and the sealing paste applied beautifully to the new WaPu. But the reality looks different. I left the car, after sealing and attaching the WaPu, for the first time a day (with water) After the first trip, however, you already saw that the water is coming out of the sealing surface. About 100ml of water loss comes to 100km. Sh…..! Does anyone have a good tip what I should consider the next attempt, or how I can control the tightness? I don’t want to do a third attempt. I could e.g. pressure with a compressor and a modified compensation tank lid on top of it. give the system, but then I would only have a static pressure at which the pump does not move and the engine does not vibrate. I am grateful for all the tips! Michael

Hello dear community , I have a problem. Vehicle: renault megane 2 year 2004 Km: 70,000 The whole thing started to run smoothly when the engine was idle. He turned again and again between 1000-1500 revolutions. When I wanted to leave last week, suddenly came the error message : Injection system defective. The engine now turns completely high up to 2500 revolutions. It accelerates continuously. Even if I have no gear in it. However, if I push the brake, then it runs again no rmal. But as soon as I release the brake, it turns up again and you hear a hissing. What can that be? Where should I go best? Thank you

Hello, I’m about to decide whether to order a new car from a GS 3 Bose and I’m thinking about waiting for the new model series, which is due to come in October 2016. What do you think about it? You already know what to expect from the new model. I’ve heard that the new one should get the flattening seats, as the Touran has. I can’t say anything about new additional assistance systems and the engine range. Do you know more about this? Thank you LG

Hello, our Renault 1.6 55 KW/75 hp has been running idle for months, or swallowing itself.During the ride you notice almost nothing, every now and then the speed at the traffic light times up to 1500 or 2000 u/min high after giving short gas it is gone. So far made to fix errors, Idle controller replaced, Exhaust sealed,Lambda probe replaced,Temperature transmitters exchanged power supply tested 5 V da.. OT-Geber measured thus 255 Ohm in tolerance. new, air filter new, vacuum hose suction tube sensor replaced. Visual inspection of all vacuum hoses. Now yesterday I decided to unscrew the heat sheet from the cracker and look in there, and I also found it. 2 cracks ! Think that it will be why it’s so shitty running in idle, or what do you mean ???

Hello together, maybe close to the purchase of this car The car has two visible damages (delle in the threshold without paint damage, dent in the rear left in the fender without paint damage), is not nice, because everywhere “glued” and the sticker remains still cover the paint, but is demonstrably from first hand and was regularly maintained and maintained. Large customer service was made at kmStand 150t. However, no check booklet is attached, the dealer worries however the invoices of the War Tüv has been made new without defects in 08/15. The summer tires are down, the winter tires are still good for 1 or 2 winters (when winter comes). Technically, so far everything works, the car jumped in spite of 3 weeks immediately wonderful, the engine ran calmly and made great fun on the test drive. I have now heard from several people, however, that the second generation of the Grand Scenic is a single problem – for 2500 euros one could Who has experience with these boxes? Would I be happy about one or two tips?

Hello to everyone, what do you think about this Scenic. can you buy it or would you rather not recommend it?http://suchen.mobile.de/…/217529495.html?original=PARK We can’t spend more than +/- 2000 € at the moment. The car should bring me 20 km of reliable work every day, just like I would like to have a bigger trunk without having to take a car…. Having already looked at mobile.de for VW Golf … Opel Astra… and Ford Focus, I am now with this Re What do you think about it? Buy? Or is it a vulnerable and vulnerable car. Look forward to your open and direct opinion Greeting Jerry

Hey guys. I have a problem with our renault megane grantour 2 bj 2003. With us the in-vehicle electronics always start. Not always, not always at the same time punt, sometimes not at all. Sometimes directly at the start. times during the ride. It is totally curious. fuses in the car directly all in order checks in the engine room and also everything in order. I bought a new battery. What can it be about now? ?? HELP. The youth workshop with us in the near he has deleted the bug word once completely but not read out. I hope you can help me many times LG nicol

Hello, again I, maybe someone has help or something. And indeed my wife’s car has the following problem according to her statement. He suddenly didn’t really take gas anymore. When she came home the car stinked also Brutal. According to cool water indicator the engine however did not get hot. It was normal. But the silver part that you see at the very bottom, under the hoses. Was so hot that I cooled it with lukewarm water very slowly and that boiled right. It steamed already firmly. agt. did it with a hot water carefully that nothing can happen. But the car doesn’t jump at now either. What could that be. And what is the lower part of the picture for a part. Because it cooks. What does it do? Would it still make sense to fix that or is it an economic one? Mfg and thank you for the help. I still forgot, it comes to me that the clutch is different or has no real resistance. Can I also fool myself because with this car almost not drive.

Dear people! I have to do the timing belt + WaPu at my convertible in 2001, 1.4l 16V. Camshaftlineal + crankshaft fixation spine; lift platform and other tools are available in the hobby workshop. Have done this before at the Ford, so I’m not a newcomer for 16V engines… So, and now the question: In the Contitech instruction on the timing belt change it says: “Absolutely block the crankshaft when loosening the belt disc screw with suitable screwdriver!” (NOT with the fixing thorn, can abort, serves only for setting) Nice and good, but where to put the screwdriver ?? Sure, flywheel gearing. But where is the accessible ? From above I see nothing, except the opening to the OT-gender at the gear box. Where is the screwdriver used to resist ? Thanks for information !! Best regards, Thomas