Category: Renault Megane, Scénic, R19 & Fluence Forum

My engine jerks in the stand….Cancellations and ignition coils still changed and display exhaust system check and the engine control light flashes fa someone has a tip?….ach nor what else can apart from the adac no workshop read out the car

Moin, I drive a renault scenic 2 bj 2005 1.6 16v. A few days ago are back right grinding noises. The disc has black soot on the surface. I am now thinking about making the coverings and possibly the discs new, only I am unsure about the electronic locking brake. How do I do it best with the brake. I also don’t have a koöbenrerucker with which I could do it alternatively. Is there anything else I need to take into account. Thanks for the feedback.

Hello in the round, I recently bought a 2015 Grand Scenic III 1.6 dci 130, 165 TK. First hand, checkbook maintained, had recently received new inspection + 4 new glow candles. The problem: the engine is weaker, thirstier, and DUTCH louder & rougher than normal or my 2 previous GS 1.6 dCi which I had before, although the older ones were (2013 +2015) & more Km (190 tkm + 220 tkm), car PC shows no interference. Does anyone know what could be the cause? The loud rough V the engine runs very disruptive, a grinding coffee machines similar noise scenery to tractor ((not as usual discreet smooth 1.6 dCi engine run((( Can someone please help me ? Thanks in advance Robert

One thing in advance: Before you hit me directly, four-part and verbally bump into the TÜV pit – YES, I’ve already searched the forum extensively for information, but unfortunately didn’t come to a green branch for my woe, so here’s a new Fred: Vehicle data: Renault Megane 1.5 dci (unfortunately with DPF) 2008 76 KW / 104 HP 230,000 km After about 1-5 km of drive the power suddenly decreases significantly and the speed is limited to about 2800, looks hard after emergency run. My previous ventures: – Error memory speaks of “fuel system” – diesel filter replaced – AGR valve cleaned (was moderately rusted) – throttle valve cleaned and tested for function (kaum soot, works normally according to OBD) – DPF can be tested with Bosch ESI[tronic] : – differential pressure: 7 mbar – Russian load: 10 g This sounds uncritical at first impression, but the following values make me stutzig: – km since last regeneration: 90,000 (!) I have the car myself about 30,000 Since time immemorial the display “Control injection” (no engine control light!) came with almost every start, which can be pushed away with a short click. My (free) workshop of the vet trust suspects on DPF, but also does not want to exclude that other factors drive their mess. With ESI[tronic] was otherwise not to be found any significant error in the fuel system. (The Renault workshop on site uses the same system). If someone has an idea like one d he could get on the trick without slaughtering at least half a thousand? (DPF renew incl. all PiPaPo…) Thank you for your opinions in advance ! Have a nice (control light-free) Sunday 😉 Andreas

Hello dear friends, at my Megane 1 convertible 1.6 16V, 107 hp, built in 2003, approx. 114000 km has been permanently lit by the engine control light (MKL) since today. Before, in a parking lot, the engine ran at increased speed when parking. Since I only have the possibility to delete errors via a Dephi readout device (laptop with software up to 2005 year, OBD dongle and corresponding equipment), before reading out already the question…. What could that be? Thank you and .

Moin, Moin, Zum Wagen: Renault Grand Scenic III Bose Edition 1,6l dCi 130PS the holiday is just around the corner and the car is starting to tick. My car sometimes fluctuates so much in idleness that I have the feeling it’s going out. False air I can rule out almost 100% because this has been checked using a fog machine. I can also rule out cokes as the engine has been cleaned with an Oyxhydrogen treatment. someone an idea what this can be?https://youtu.be/dRs-rpG2E2k Thanks and greeting from Hamburg

Hello Motor-Talker, My car is a Scenic3, 1,5DCI year 2014 with engine code K9K636. Km stand just under 100t. I wanted to change the timing belt and noticed that the original timing belt has a tooth spacing of 19 teeth (nock shaft wheel to injection pump). The new SKF timing belt has 20 teeth between the make-ups. My question would be to use the original distance or the make-up of the SKF belt? The engine always jumped well and ran also normal, about 3weeks ago had to However, an injection nozzle (Cyl3) is changed, which said goodbye on a highway ride. When opening the timing belt cover I found small remnants of the belt, could it be the one tooth skipped thereby ? I am actually only 2CV hobby screwdriver and therefore have little idea of modern engines, but as a pensioner now time also with my “normal” car to screw around. Thank you for your answers.

My engine has recently (for a few weeks) been having serious cold start problems. When it was still very good (nearly 10°C), a restless engine run, bad gas acceptance – but after 100 meters everything was nice again. At the icy temperatures at the moment (almost -20°C) – very rough engine run, nailing like an old taxi from the 70s, very bad gas acceptance (connected with real hopping – jerking would be undertried), partly the engine also goes off again. Under 2200 rpm. goes even nothing. The circus goes at least 5 minutes – then everything is nice again. As I said, the problem does not exist for long. I can’t understand it. Fuel filter was changed a few months ago, oil too. Warnings / error messages do not appear in the on-board computer, there are no warning lights. Someone an idea what this could be about? Reading error memory is currently bad (if, then only with a Gutmann tester at my free workshop, to Renault I would come in two months at the earliest).

Hello together, too above all topic I have already worked through the forum, but this does not really open up to me. Basically here seems to be the camshaft adjuster of the culprits. The symptoms that my vehicle has, partly fit to it. If I have read this correctly, this also concerns the 1.6 and less the 2.0 engine?!? I describe briefly. Engine starts perfectly, no Ice Crusher noise. No speed fluctuations and no power loss. ust. For a very short time (perhaps two, three minutes) absolutely clean, quiet engine run. Then louder and louder, slightly nailing engine noise. Under load rather not available. Now read from camshaft adjuster or this valve. Which part is the actual culprit? Someone wrote that after cleaning the valve with brake cleaner and oil change the noise was released. Would be grateful if someone had some information for me. Greeting Björn

Hello, I’m new here and I’m asking for expert help: With my Renault Megane Grandtour 1.9 dCi from March 2006 I have problems with the boot flap. It started with sporadic appearance that I couldn’t open the flap. After some time and driving it went again. Recently it was added that it didn’t close immediately, you had to hit a few times. Have already read a lot in div. forums about cable breakage, plug defective etc. I have inzwis I have removed the boot switch and bridged it: no reaction. Even on a 12 V test lamp nothing happens, i.e. according to my understanding, there is probably no voltage at all to the switch!? Who knows, which safety is responsible for it? Is it in the motror room or in the interior? Who else has a good tip?? Thank you in advance