Category: Renault Megane, Scénic, R19 & Fluence Forum

Hello, I hope I can get an answer here. It’s about a Scenic I Phase II 2.0L Typical Proglem: Immobilizer won’t let the car start any more. Friendly says he’s tried everything, the car is over, new ECUs are not manufactured. I would like to try to save the car one last time. The ECUs have to be replaced as a set from a single donor vehicle, injection and main ECU + key. h which ones are sold as a set. Only: I am not sure about the part number. Can you tell me if the part number (8200xxxx etc) has to fit exactly or is it enough if the device also comes from another gasoline Scenic? I take a control unit from a 1.4 or so I can’t take but would a 2.0 with another part number be a variant? And if I find a control unit with the same Renault part number, I can simply replace the parts and d start or has something to be programmed around afterwards? edit: and something else. Will the mileage be maintained afterwards? Will it be stored in the ECU or directly in the instrument module?

Hello Community, my question refers to the Renault Scenic 2 (2004 / 1,9 dci). When starting the starter does not turn, the fan goes on and error messages like: oil pressure loss / steering wheel lock / electronic hand brake and alternator broken. After several attempts the car starts. After further short start attempts it also starts again. After a short wait the error picture appears again, as described at the beginning. As long as the valve at the high pressure pu If the valve is no longer powered, then it will only start again after several attempts at starting. The UPC (the safety/– and switching unit) has already been changed, but the damage image is the same. Do you have some ideas or experiences for this problem? I would be very pleased about suggestions. Thank you for your efforts.

Hello and a nice Sunday in the round, On my last ride… Megane 2, 1,6l, 16V, gas has occurred above mentioned problem. At home, engine out and doors too, I have seen that the standby display of the gas system still turned yellow (not before or not noticed). Couple of days later I wanted to start and there were funny noises (as if you hold a stick in a fan wheel) and the ignition went out immediately. Sn… let go and the next day smelled e (Problem now found….wasted plug connection on the window lifter engine.) New battery is inside, the above mentioned problem is still there and I noticed that only the hand brake is displayed at the first ignition stage. There is still something, but that should be enough for now…. maybe there is one idea/solution here? The first glance of the car driver on the washing pump did not give anything. Thanks already in advance. VG Birgit

The brother of the boss comes today with his Megane IV to the small inspection and the trunk lighting says nothing. The pear is quite, only the lock tells the ladle not that the flap is open, therefore also no light. Ok then I just build out the lock …. to make it short, the ingenööööör who had the so built has nevertheless clearly let into the brain gsch….en!! It was once so the man there 2 Schruaben and took the lock out. No here was man sc Hluer , we take that now inside out . That means with the bucket , interior cladding out , both rear lights out , remove the complete outer skin which is fixed with XX screws and also clipped . Then still an extra plastic cover above the lock and then you can take the part out . Completely wacky !! So now I wanted to hit the micro switch rsan . The housing for the electrics and the servo motor have made on one side with flaps . The other side h abens but cleanly pressed with the riveted lock box. That would be the next termination reason for the ingenöööör. So I snapped the part with a cutter knife so that I could take off the lid at the front. The small engine and the electrics can now take man out nicely. On the microswitch a small square lid is clipped on top. I even got rid of it. Underneath the mini-cups contact mechanics and over there a Gumimmanschette which also over the Pusherpin goes. The little rubber shitter was kind of crowded and pressed on the mini mechanics contacts so that they didn’t have closed. I then cut off the rubber to the side and put everything together again. Funzt. The boss said .. build up nevertheless “quickly” one out of the new car …. my brother wants to go away again today ….. yes no eat clear, times fast and that as much as possible still without scratches and fighting traces. So that had to get out, now I feel better.

Hello together, recently bought me a Megane from 2011, 1.5 DCI. It started from the beginning and we started from a bad battery. It was usually started either after 5 – 10 try or not at all and then the battery was completely empty. The battery also had only 400 cold test current of the 600. Now I bought a new battery with 65Ah and 650 cold test current and thought it would have to start now without any problems. However, it starts now imm it exactly at the 3 try. What else could it be besides battery? Engine runs without problems. Did a video once as it looks at the start attempt.

Hello MT municipality come from the Vectra corner but have a Renault question it’s about a Renault 19 F 66 kw 1.7 l (1721 ccm) the vehicle was already lowered according to papers … but the front dampers were defective the vehicle was rebuilt again in series (because was cheaper) .. according to papers a shorter spring set was installed on the front axle and on the rear axle the torso rods were “modified” …. now the question arises to me … how do I change the front F edern swap is easy…. but I’ve never done anything about torsion rods … or I haven’t seen anything like this again 🙂 ( .. can post me a “short guide” .. PLEASE … and thank you

Hello guys, if I drive and brake very slowly with my car (Renault Megane RS), then there is a more or less loud bang every time. You notice this mainly when you are shunting. So far it wasn’t there. In the Renault Forum they think that would be normal – but I don’t want to take any risk when it comes to braking. The bang happens already, if you just tap the brake pedal, so there doesn’t have to be a lot of braking effect. It’s also mainly after load changes. Driving backwards – braking – bang Driving forward – braking – bang Driving forward – braking again – braking – (usually) no bang Driving backwards – braking – banging etc. Here’s a short video with the sound: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMgG9QIPtyk&feature=youtu.be What could that be? Thank you very much.

Hello together, I am just a bit perplexed, and could not find anything with the help of the search function. I have the problem described in Bertreff, an extremely high static gas. I thought at first no problem, idle control check. I wanted to do before, but did not find one! I have released the throttle valve (with electronic throttle valve) as well as possible, but there is no one. I then remembered that there are probably certain throttle valves that do not idle well, strangely, I think, however, that I ordered one the day before yesterday? Does anyone have an idea? I have read out a mistake moDiag, no one in it. Of course, that doesn’t have to mean anything. The throttle flaps position/position could be continuously controlled with an engine of approx. 3.5-70%, according to the indicator moDiag. Would I be very pleased about feedback.

Hello, I am looking for a roof rack for my Scenic BJ 2002 on which I can mount the cheap roof boxes (approx. 150 Euro at OBI). At Renault the original carrier should cost a walled 280 Euro, for me this is definitely too expensive. I want to save the Renault price for a roof box here… At ebay I have already found some for approx. 80 Euro (Thule), unfortunately these are somehow fixed in the upper area of the four doors. he already existing openings in the roof? Or am I completely wrong with my ideas? MfG es2 thank you for every tip

Hello forum community I have the following problem. With my Megane 1 Phase 2 5days ago after a noise in the middle of the highway the engine went out. Then let tow away home. No more compression. I bought the same for small money out of need. With this the servo does not work. (Was it not important to me in the first moment) I drove home with it (80km) next day back normal…. on there home into the garage. 15min later entered engine no longer starts. Bzw does not ignite. Also the lighting is from the heat controllers, blowers, and clock. Then I checked by reading here in the forum the fuse box hub of the battery. One of the thin cables is off. Also one sees there relatively much corrosion. Can this be the error.? It is the white cable outside. Can it also be that therefore the servo did not work? Also the climate does not run….ohje problem ü about problem. Tomorrow morning I will get on it. Would be happy to get tips and assistance in the meantime from you. Good night