Category: Renault Megane, Scénic, R19 & Fluence Forum

I think my little Megane III is slowly getting weak on the chest. The loss of power in the warm state is getting worse. When the engine is cold it pulls neatly. However, as soon as the engine gets warm, I am only on the switch. In the 5th at 60 km/h still something to speed up is almost impossible. If I latch there fully on the gas he can possibly get a KM/H per second more. In the 6th he can only keep the 60 km/h with connected limiter. I ch first thought that the clutch is now finally through, but also the speed does not rise even though it reacts loudly, when I give gas… Even in urban traffic I have to switch to the 3rd to overtake such a 45kmh Schleicher… On the track it hardly gets over 150kmh. The car was always a little weak. The megane of the workmate with the same engine goes there clearly more splashy. Has someone here perhaps already experienced the same thing? Are these the last twitches u nd should therefore repel the car as soon as possible or is there still hope? The current consumption when accelerating goes loosely up to 19l and while swimming with the 6th at about 5l. 1.6 16v 110ps Thank you for the answers, if any come.

Renault Megane Cabrio 92T Km, built in 2004 113hp 1,6 Hi! About 2 months ago the Renault started in the stand to Ruckeln. According to FS analysis it was the ignition coils. In the meantime I had all 4 replaced in the workshop. New spark plugs are also installed. Now after my holiday it starts to jerk again in the stand. It sounds like a trecker, but it is not so crazily that it is just before the go out. The speed fluctuates slightly, but you notice it. What can this be about now? n has never driven Renault before, so I don’t know much about the typical problems with the model. could it be due to the MAP sensor (suction tube pressure sensor)? It wouldn’t be difficult to replace it.

After starting, as usual, a gear was inserted and it was supposed to go. But it only went a few meters, then there was a short “knack” i.e. gearbox and end. The gear did not go out anymore and the engine did not want to go. Since then, several attempts have been made to get the gear out, to switch to idle, in vain. Also an attempt to start in this condition (with the inserted gear) remained unsuccessful. When slow release of the clutch is usually a gear. When the clutch is completely released, there is only one jock left and the engine is running out. Probably the clutch is defective. That’s why I want to go to the workshop with the car. However, I don’t know how, if the circuit is no longer working and there is some gear in it (which is currently in it, is unknown, since several attempts have been made to switch over in the meantime). Towing with a second car is due to the inserted sound. n Ganges, not possible. Does this mean that now only the towing service remains, or is there a way to tow the car, despite the sluggish gang / this “blockade”? Do you have any advice? I wanted to avoid the towing service if possible.

Good evening, dear forum, I have the following problem with my Renault Megane Renault grandtour 3, if I am on the highway or on the highway and there is stronger wind from the front or side, shows me the display “Motor can be destroyed” and afterwards “ESP check”. This problem only appears if the weather is a bit more stormy or if a truck comes towards me on the highway and drives past me. The message is gone again after a few seconds. . Furthermore, he has the , if I want to give gas for example when overtaking that he gives with step on the gas pedal briefly no gas , until I lift the foot briefly and go on it again . The same does he when I click through my cruiser height , he probably would like to go up but does not manage it apparently until I deactivate it and turn it on again . Maybe here someone had the same problem or can tell me what it can lie on . The reading unfortunately does not result , since the error nu r few seconds is displayed . The workshops only speculate and say the following : either the power supply to ESP , a sensor or it comes from the wheel bearing . Since I am not a man of the compartment and have no idea of it , I would be pleased about any answer beautiful evening you still

Hello,with my “newly acquired Renault Scenic 2 Built 02/2004,1.6,16v. There are 3 window lifters (passenger and especially both rear) without function. Have tested the following: -12v Permanent voltage lies on the doors and the plug to the engine. -Button does not move either on the driver’s door or directly on the doors the windows. -directly 12v applied to the window lifter motors,they move +\- exchanged high/down. -Partial solution->Passenger door a China module (Temic replica) approx. 25€,connected-> functioni ert.https://rover.ebay.com/…/0?… But the same China module doesn’t work on the rear window lifters. It doesn’t work like in the front when the China module is connected to the rear. The “child safety” on the driver’s door with switch seems to work, glows and clacks after pressing. Are there special modules for the rear? Voltage is on and the window lift motors are ok. What else could be the cause? Someone’s experience with it? The old, probably defective Temic module h I’m attached as a picture.

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Help! Imprisonment device spins and motor doesn’t start. I’m new to the club of the immobilizer victims. My Megane Bj. 1999 spins for some time. First the on-board computer has given up the spirit, then electr. Window lifter no longer went, immobilizer spins for some time, but engine allowed itself to be opened and closed by door or ZV button in/off again. Since last Saturday at minus 15° C the red lamp of the immobilizer flashes very fast and it can not start any more, ZV works, bee keys are so far OK. Have read a lot here in the forum and looked for the code and actually found something: Looks like a price sticker with barcode; on that there is a digit block with 10 digit number, an 8 digit letter/digit combination ( = key no.: is that the code pretty much driving? ) and an 8 digit numeric code below the radio remote control system. Question: Which is now the code? How to disable it is expensive to enter the on-board?

Hello, I would like to connect my iPod to my original Renault radio via the Aux port. At Amazon I found the following set: iPod adapter Has any of you already installed this set or experience if this works ? Amazon is unfortunately only the intermediary and not the distributor. What about the return right in this case, if it doesn’t fit. At Renault the so-called multimedia box costs significantly more (> 150 Euro + installation) and that I wanted to save myself frankly. Furthermore, I would like to put the iPod connection in the glove compartment or the center console (covered between the seats) because you should be able to control the iPod with the control panel from the radio or operating ateliers on the steering wheel according to description. Does someone have experience whether this really works and how I get it moved accordingly without tearing apart the entire cockpit ? Thank you for your tips my car: Renault Megane Grandtour PH II 1.6 16V , Built. 03/09, EZ 07/09

Hello, I’m interested in the Megane as a grand tour with 130hp dci. actually I’ve already shot on the 1.9hp, until I read that in spring 2011 in the Scenic and Megane the new 1.6hp dci should come with 130hp. I mean a consumption advantage of 20-25% (according to Renault) is already an argument to wait for today’s fuel prices and the tax calculation, especially since the 1.6h should also have a control chain, which should be maintenance friend, than the timing belt of the 1,9hp… when does it really come? many greetings Pit

Hello community, I turn to you again. I hope that this time I get a little help, because my last two problems did not come up with an answer. I changed the spark plugs today, so the jerking (see other thread) seems to be gone. Then I drove with my girlfriend full of euphoria to the lake for a walk and I was happy about a seemingly problem-free car. Min. 40 km and approx. 10 smooth engine starts later the engine did not work anymore. Then the starter does not spin at all, but it just cracks or there is a hint of usual start noise ( 1/10 sec) and then silence. Lights continue to glow everyone, radio, window lifter, everything battery-powered works perfectly. Then every 7th-10. Try it also jumps again as if never was anything. I have no idea where to look at all, please someone will have nothing to do with the candles.!! Voltmeter, everything battery-powered works perfectly well. Then every 7th-10. Try it also jumps again as if never was anything else. I really have a problem with Andy. I don’t know what to say about it again and I’s a long time again.