Category: Renault Megane, Scénic, R19 & Fluence Forum

Hello guys, recently I have a problem with my renault grand scenic. The daily kilometer counter and the clock zeros at every engine start. What could it be? Thanks ahead.

The explanation was not as follows: “Yes, the measuring instrument shows too high values” but rather as follows: “Hello, yes, something is wrong somehow, we had to do 2 times new filters on the measuring instrument, there comes somehow totally a lot of water from the exhaust.” I then ask “yes and how were the values” “yes, the CO2 was much too high.” Could it be that a car at this bad tempera can I prevent the water in the exhaust after such a short distance drive? Can it also be that the catalyst does not change properly when there is still water in the exhaust? Then the shop wants me to change the catalyst and medium/muffler again. They are already worse and partly rusty, but somehow not so bad that they have to be changed. They said there were holes in it and they were leaking, but they never saw holes in it when I last looked down on the lift. Atu’s then thought they’d call me back if the real Tüv had looked at me. But didn’t. Does anyone know such a behavior? Whether they’ve done something wrong or something wrong? But most importantly, what can I do against the water in the exhaust? What do you have so He Do you always have to warm the car before, so that the exhaust gas examination did not fail? Who has ever done the exhaust gas examination in “winter”? And what do they mean by “wrong air”? They said something about false air. Are you talking about false air when the engine pulls false air inside, which confuses the regulation, or are you talking about false air when there is a hole in the exhaust, and the measuring device therefore measures false values?

The problem is that I don’t have much time until my Tüv runs out. Nevertheless, the brakes have to be tested on the test bench during the re-examination, although they are not yet properly braked. Is this a problem for the brakes? On the test bench the brakes are kicked very hard. Then did not the Brem have to be braked. Does this damage the wheel drum or only the brake pads?

Almost every day when I get into the car I have to set the clock again, because for a short time the power has failed. Why is that? The battery is fully one of Bosch has cost 200e. I used to never have the problem. It’s only been a few weeks now and it’s annoying because it also erases the driven kilometers. Now I bought such a battery pole protective spray color blue and thus sprayed in the contacts. But it didn’t do anything. What can that be?

Good morning together, for a friend we are looking for a semi-motorized compact car up to max. 7500/8000€. The decision is basically stuck with the Renault Megane TCe 180 Coupe. Will run out on one of the first models, i.e. BJ 2009, with hopefully max. 100,000. Can someone say something about the weaknesses? What must be paid special attention? In my view, you will not find so much information about the car, why ever. be, is that the coupling should be a weak point. Of course, would be unsightly if it actually affected all models, as a repair would simply become costly. The purchase is only planned for the spring. I have selected an example, what the car could look like then:http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… I thank you for every tip.

Hello, For some time now, when I switch the gears e.g. into the 2 gears, when I let the clutch pedal come back, so plug in, a dull blow. Strangely, the most in the 2.,3. and 4th gears in the 5th gear not, as well as when starting in the 1st gear. If I give abruptly gas, then there is also this blow. If I do the coupling quite carefully then I hardly make it at all. Also, the shift stick moves extremely, but as I read I don’t know if there’s a clutch defect or something worse. Drive shaft, bearing or something. Who can give me a tip or help me?Thank you. Andreas

Hello Scenic friends, have a problem with my Scenic 1.6l 16v bj 99.Started the problem with a restless run in the stand, the speed commutes between 500 and 1500 revolutions ran but as soon as you have given gas clean and powerful.Now today trip with the family made still quickly refueled, up on the highway and after about 30 km down there it started.Takes gas no longer properly has full power, stutters and pulls not really up.1,2,3 everything the same thing I am then in the 4th gear and the rotation fence reaches 2800 turns also in the 5th gear it feels as if it had full power again.As soon as the speed then after braking, so 5th gear again under 2800 falls it stutters again.Don’t get hot.Spring normally.When it is warm commutes rotationally as already written above, it cools off after a few minutes and Will start it goes off in the standing gas until it is warm again you have to hold gas.Who knows the problem or knows what the lead is ns can be.Hab bought the car first,is already the third I have, but did not have the problem yet. I really appreciate about every help.Hoffe described it well. I’m new here I should have made a mistake,please have a look,because in order to find my way around here I need almost a Dr. title. Thanks in advance.Gruss Chris

In 2003 I bought the nine Megane, with this car I can say better what was left….would be much shorter. After just under a year of unreliability and threat the case to be brought to court the car was changed. However, a grant was only granted if I would buy a new Renault again. I then decided on the new Scenic 2004, with which it should not get much better. 1. Driver seat / cover in only one year worn and had to renew 2. Engine of both electric mirrors does not defective a culant…in the opposite case a warranty was made which did not come up for it. 3. A heat exchanger/controller had to be renewed. 4. In this year 2007 came the absolute hammer, after error messages in the on-board computer “injection defective” I drove to my EX-Renault dealer in Oberhausen. This found several times the computer deleted and then told me he could find nothing unique. Before the warranty then expired This time you found the FEHLER :: The injection system dissolves and a lot of things have to be renewed. This little thing then costs ( well noticed, the car is 3 years ) 3990€ In this repair the tank was removed because a new encoder had to be installed. At the Tüv they told me that the tank was leaking and I had to have this checked. My Renault dealer had the tank probably schlec when installed. Although it happened during the repair I should take the damage (cost approx. 680€ ) The dealer does not accept it and Renault is not ready to meet me on Kulanz. If someone also have such a tank problem I would be very happy about an e-mail because I might apply for a lawsuit. So much on the topic RENAULT Createure de Maleur [email protected]

Hello Renault municipality Check out the attached picture. It is about component 13, which is mounted via No. 14 on the pressure tube between loader and LLK. What exactly is this component, what function does it fulfil? With me it is currently so that it drips out of this part medium strongly oily and spoils the area below. Furthermore, I occasionally have the unround and strongly vibrating motor run, so towards PD characteristic, which I had mentioned earlier. The EGR valve is suspected. Now I am thinking of a defective seal in the loader, which causes some engine oil to enter the intake tract and thus burns out of control in the engine from time to time. What do you say? gruss aurian

Hello together, have a problem with the beam light in the R19. (whether PH 1 or 2 can’t I say.important?if yes where do I get the info?) so if I have light on the light horn works when I have the normal dipped light the light horn no longer works. and how do I get the light permanently on? If there is a relay broken can send me a schematic and tell me where the relay is? or how to measure it. Thank you very much Honni