Category: Renault Megane, Scénic, R19 & Fluence Forum

Hello together, after a long time of thinking, I have been more interested in the topic of LPG and would like to have my Meggi remodeled. I drive a Mégane CC 2.0 16V. Now I am facing a huge problem. I have called Renault directly and at 5 retrofitters. Renault Germany tells me that Renault does not give permission for LPG conversion and thus everything is at my own risk. I don’t understand, because in France the Meggis drive with it as standard, but no matter. The second one says that KME is for hobbyists and wants me to install a BRC system for 2500 € + rental car for the conversion time + 2 years free towing in the surrounding area if there is a problem with the system. The dirtte wants me to install a BRC for 2900 €. The fourth one is a Landirenzo system, as this system also from Renault in Frankrei Now comes the fifth and says that the only real thing for the future is a Vialle Liquefied Gas plant. He wants to install it for 2500 € fixed price. According to the Vialle NL homepage, he is an official service partner. Do you understand my problem as layman? Everyone says something different. What do you say “the knowledgeer” about it? 🙂 Which plant is to be recommended at what price? I don’t want to have big problems afterwards and no permanent subscription in the workshop. What do you think about it? P.S.: On my speedometer I recognize an ad “GAS”. Can’t find anything about it? We used it in France as an ad for LPG? Best regards, Philadou

moins leutz have a try with my car and this is the following, some time ago I noticed such a funny hissing on about 2000 tours which became louder with increasing speed and today a performance problem has come so that the car hardly from the spot came had unscrewed the engine cover to look for the rubies while greasing the teeth heng en piece rubies how there has pulled the fusel little away and the smell seems to be tested OKI then I just got a car makes to look where the distance comes from when 2000 tours were on it went to onema the DREHQAY by itself HOCH dreckt the key turned around but the motor has reacted garnet on it has turned cheerfully further *for luck I got the car out then nevertheless still* and out of the exhaust came out nen fat WOLKE *sicht war gleich NULL* hab ÖL geprüft *OHHHHHHHHA* is minimum in it *so ÖL burns the also with* I hope ma it can give me who help or tips like I’m the test from the world Renault Scénic can create 1.9ccm kW75/PS102 4 cylinders

Our Scenic III has now been 10 times in the workshop in 4 months, everything is well read out, but it continues to run restlessly, consumes between 1 and 2 liters too much gasoline, and pushes in every gear when you take away gas. This morning I then specifically slowed down to test, and what the Renault workshop also confirms, it simply speeds up, and turns up again when you get into the 1000 revolutions range… he just does not lower the speed and I don’t know if this is an indicator for the motor electronics, but we still have 2 months factory warranty, and I can’t handle it with Renault. Since this is not predictable and also occurs in a crossroads where pedestrians walk around, this is not only an uncertainty, but also a danger. We bought at 9,000 km, as a 7 star guarantee with the 96 points service, but we don’t notice anything about it. It’s a 1.2 Lite. r Petrol with 132 hp. Has anyone any idea how to come up with the question of “uncontrolled control” of motor electronics.

With my Megane 2, the gap between the front doors and the fenders is extremely large. The fender on the driving side (underside mirror) is a little 5mm outside again. When I walked over a Renault car dealership today and looked around me a little, much to me that with very many Renault, especially the New Megane, has these defects. Is this really such a bad workmanship and can you have it repaired? Also the bonnet sits me completely in the middle. On the driver’s side the gap is about 2-3 mm and on the other 7-8 mm. Is this not normal, is it?

Hi to all Megane drivers, and everyone else is driving the Renault. I bought me the Megane Phase II Cup half a year ago. Isn Diesel, so I know how to tune even net, so I wonder what else is in there with a diesel engine in terms of performance increase? Nen chip already brings the car 137 HP, what else can I do? And if we’re here, anyone knows where to get deep blue pears for the interior lighting? Bring the Osram Cool Blue ns not me, they are still too white. And as I get my amature board blue I don’t know yet. Please help me, at the latest in September I want to start with the conversions. Greeting JC_MadMeg

Hello professionals and hobby screwdriver, I am the André from Berlin and not exactly the professional or hobby screwdriver. I have a Renault Megane 1.6 16V with a Prins LPG gas system, BJ/ day of first registration 10.2001 – If relevant HSN 3004/587 . Read here for some time and I was explained one or the other thereby. For this thank you to all! Anyway, like many others I also have the problem with restless motor running in the stand when it runs on petrol. The engine purrs like a kitten. If I want to start the car in the morning, it needs between 3-6 runs, partly the engine jerks when it approaches and chokes again. After a few try it then catches itself and the speed goes in cold condition from 1000-1200 revolutions down to 750-780 approx. The engine runs restlessly, and from the exhaust comes then a buffer (stronger emission of exhaust gas) but no bang, in the same cycle as the engine runs restlessly. hnumber 1500-2000 revolutions, purrs the engine. At a certain temperature, the Prins LPG system switches on and the engine is completely relaxed. I turn it off or again on petrol the engine runs restless. Speed drops down to about 550-600 then goes fixed to constant 750-780 revolutions. What I have done to date: 1: throttle valve cleaned 2:Instructions changed because the old total failure had changed about 3 weeks ago. 3:Gaspedal Poti changed, because according to odb2 an error message ka m P0120 (Fig.1). Have a partially electronic accelerator pedal (gas pedal-built train engine room/ Gaspoti) 4: spark plugs changed/ from NKG diode distance 0.9 5: ignition coils changed / from Beru After changing spark plugs and ignition coils suddenly the MKL flashed. Anyway, everything was removed and controlled again, spark plugs are a bit black but not oily or damp. Ignition coils also look normal. According to Odb2 error message 0300 (See picture 2) error code I then deleted. Have the cables d I looked at the ignition coils and they don’t look fit, some of the ribbed protective sheath fell apart. I then when the engine ran in petrol operation the individual power cable which leads to the injection valves/nozzles sometimes moved and determined that on the cable to the injection valve/nozzle 4 (motor monitor left ) is a wobble contact. If I move the cable up towards the ignition coil “wheeps” the engine, I move it down the engine from and the MKL is coming and the motor is turning with approx. 1700-2000 revolutions. Wiring Picture 3. My question which cables do I have to buy or where do I get them from? Ignition coils harness? Thank you for your help and tips!

Hi ho, Since my 20-year-old Opel Vectra is not very fun and looks like nothing, I wanted to get something different at the end of the year. Since my girlfriend has been driving a completely problem-free Dacia Sandero for a year now and I just like the Megane optics, this is also in short choice. Since I want to invest about 5000 euros for a running, fully functional car would probably be a 2005, 2006 model with almost 100,000 mileage in it. Wg warranty preferred v om Merchant. Now the questions to the professionals among you; Do you get a usable for 5000 at all? What are you paying attention to? (generally and possibly model weak spots) Even more what you should know? MfG

Moin dear people, I’ve also had this message on display for a few weeks now. In my case, it’s been very restless for a few weeks in the cold start, as if it only runs on three pots when it’s warm it’s gone again…. With the beauty error that the well 2 liters diesel needs more than usually noticeably less power and also shows nothing from time to time to the current consumption display, so not o,o but -.-! to the vehicle: Renault Grand Scenic III JZ/01 1.5DCI 106 PS 256000 KM and recently timing belts new, turbo new, brakes new, battery new exhaust temperature sensor new, air filter, oil filter and diesel filter new, brake fluid new. Error was deleted two weeks ago and has been popped up again today. I was advised now also to replace the injection nozzles, but the parts to be tested do not even notice in the error message. So far I am very satisfied with the car because it is quite reliable and my daily n school paths (120km back and 120km back) is also very cheap. I only wanted to get a second opinion from you, because I had already invested a lot the last 2 months. PS. I only refuel good fuel. Nix Real tank because there 2 cents cheaper!

Drive the Scenic for 6 years. All customer service at Renault since then in order to be bold and guarantee. After 4 years then timing belt change was due. The workshop demanded 800€. A friend of mine worked at Renault at the time, but in another place. He suggested that he would repair my vehicle at the weekend for 450€ (dental belt, water pump etc ). For 2 years the car runs perfectly. Has it done great. Unfortunately I no longer have any contact with this mechanic since he When I drove to my Renault dealer, I was told that the camshaft adjuster was defective and that timing belt changes had to be made again. I went to a free workshop and they changed the ignition coil and the car ran again without problems. Now again for a few weeks the Scenic is jerking at half-gas. Renault dealer closed the vehicle to the tester and says camshaft adjuster and timing belt changes 800€. In the beginning it was called camshaft adjuster. Also connected there to the engine tester. Bosch Service demanded 360€ for the reperture. No talk about timing belt lizard. I agreed to the reperture. When I came to pick up the car I was very surprised. The master said that everything was fine on the vehicle. It had to be an electronic problem. I had to pay nothing. Apparently, everyone was checked. They thought I should try driving it would be according to the mechanics It was much better than before, but not like before. The car used to run like on velvet. It’s a garage car and very well maintained. It only has 58000Km. The jerking is now less and less. The performance is somehow lacking. I think about driving another Renault workshop. My previous dealer has been making the timing belt somewhere else a little different. He always wants to change the timing belt. Has one a tip.

The engine speed is almost 3000 rpm, if the engine is warm. Otherwise the speed is too high, but at 1200-1500 and thus much more “quiet”, i.e. bearable. Now I have renewed all the controllers in question, etc., but it does not matter. The error picture is strange. When I drive and take the gear out, the idle speed swings around 1800, only when the vehicle is standing or almost standing, the speed goes up. is really embarrassing to stand at the traffic lights or roll into a parking lot and the engine spins like Oskar…… so please help, there is no side air / leaks, hoses and clamps almost all exchanged.