Category: Renault Trafic, Kangoo & Master Forum

Hello I hope one can help me. I bought a Renault Kangoo 1.5 Dci Diesel it was an emergency purchase because my 1.4 petrol engine is broken When the Diesel Kangoo is burning 3 counter symbols 1 meal stop 2 glow candles 3 engine control Have installed new diesel filters but the lights still got deleted the car lacks power 120 kmh With not can be that the turbo is broken or does not have a turbo error analysis error code 4134/Error code OrgF061 error code 4232/Error code e Org DF 137 function flawed.

Hello. My name is Michi. I’ve already read opener here. But now I have a problem myself. My kangoo bj. 2004 1.5 dci. Has start problem. It takes place as follows. First my starter was defective. I then replaced it. Then it was great again. Then the glow control in the cockpit started to light up and the start behavior became bad. I then changed the glow candles. The bad start behavior remained. I tested the removed glow candles and the newly installed. A ll glow. So that wasn’t it. Now it’s as follows. The car only starts after a long 5-10 seconds organ. I mean that it starts better when I pump the accelerator a few times before like with a carburetor engine. (What can actually bring nothing). This morning I wanted to work and he cared and didn’t jump on. He orgs without a load as if he had no fuel. After work I tried it again. The same thing. Long organ don’t jump on. Then I have to ch pressed the pumpball 5-10x and it jumped on. The immobilizer’s control light is permanent. What is rightg!? I also tried both keys. Does anyone have one? Thanks for all the information.

Moin, have a strange phenomenon on my Kangoo KC01, 1.2 16V, first addition: 2002, petrolers have to detect during the ride and then still in the traffic jam. My warning lamp for electrical disturbances, presence of water in the fuel lights up every now and then, had to restart several times until it went out. I then had the error memory read out (DF 135 … circuit brake pedal encoder) and that says that the brake pedal (switch) sensor causes sporadic error. so a nine chewed ft from Fibelstein (4 pole), yet while driving the light up and the speed emenz comes into the cellar, only after restarting the car he drives again. Have also examined everything whether water could come into the tank somewhere or from the suction bridge or throttle valve – nothing, everything is io. Who knows advice?

Hello, I have an old Kangoo from 2003, gasoline 1.2 16 V, KC is the name of the model I think. Since yesterday the blower in the interior no longer goes out, can not be regulated, blows full polle, even if the car is off. Have all fuses tried one after the other, but unfortunately none found, where it would have gone out. Is there another fuse box somewhere with the Kangoo? Or can one take off the aperture, on which the controllers sit? To look there, whether you can pull off a cable or a plug? My neighbor then has the battery disconnected from me, otherwise the battery would have been empty this morning. I found in the internet so far only that there is probably a resistance broken, Ok, I can then let me look again next week, but what do I do now, with every stop the battery disconnect and then again, if you want to continue is also not so much. Can someone help me, how I blow the now e can rest until I can drive into a workshop? I had the same experience. already with my VW bus, the heater didn’t go out anymore, there was then the fuse or the relay under the driver’s seat… Thank you!

Hello, since I founded a cleaning company, I need a vehicle like the Kangoo Rapid Diesel. Since the saved money has flown into the company, it had to be as cheap as possible. I have a Kangoo 1.5 dci Rapid or Express? down from 110€ to 850€. Previous owner he said he bought everything new: AGR, glow plugs, battery. The money I give him is so why only for the parts he bought. 1.Vehicle starts with starter spray briefly, but goes out again immediately. 2.On the brake pedal are soldered small wires of a cable, see photo 3. Error with mobile phone and torque read out. An error P0670 4. On the cockpit remains battery light and stop light. 5. Oil measuring rod despite refilling of 3 liters of oil no oil can be detected. 6. I can not find these two black relays. At the start try it sounds as if it would spark once at every turn. I have read something already, I believe if it starts with start help spray, is what’s wrong with the diesel injection. I have the car in the garden, so not in the workshop.

Good morning dear members, I currently have a Trafic in the garage, the 1.9 dci115. It always glows sporadically, so not always the lamp in the cockpit and emergency run starts. So not always. Sometimes 1 day everything is good, runs well, after tomorrow a few means warm running, lamp on and emergency run, then a few days everything is fine, then again a few days immediately lamp on, at the moment everything is good again. Now I wanted to change the Lamnadson and find you not. to exhaust center everything photographed and scanned, nothing, then workshop called, he told me noee, search in front of the turbocharger, I did, but he is sitting right on the engine block. It would only be conceivable behind the fat intake hose that leads to the turbo. But before I wanted to ask someone who might have done it already with this engine. Before and behind the cat, everything searched. I just got a bit desperate ?? the new control probe, so must do I’ve taken some pictures of before, below and behind the turbo, maybe I’m blind. Or maybe someone like that can tell me where to look. Thanks for the intresse.

Hello municipality, it is a Kangoo 2, 1.5 dCI, 90 hp, K9K engine, EZ 2012. Box car (Rapid) The start-stop automatic has not been working for a few days. After starting the engine, the red LED comes in the switch (at the bottom right of the dashboard, for deactivation of the S-S automatic) a few seconds after the start of the engine and can not be prevented from lighting even by pressing the switch. Start-stop therefore does not work either. No error message in the display. D the usual suspects such as temperature sensors provide absolutely plausible values. Air conditioning also switched off. Battery (Varta especially f. Fz. with S-S-Automatik, 70 Ah) is not yet 2 years old and delivers 12.8V at rest, with running engine 13.3 V. The error memory shows the codes: 9268 and 923A. These can not be deleted either. I have precautionally also disconnected the battery sometimes `n half an hour…. should sometimes work wonders. No change. who can vent the “secret” around these codes? Is there any experience to fix bugs? I would be grateful about tips. Greetings, the Löti

Good day I bought a Renault Master 2 and a trailer needed both. The lights on the right side of the trailer only glow very weakly to not at all. That’s why I wanted to look at the plug on the transporter. I have now completely dismantled and opened it. From the inside it looked like on the pictures not so good. I wanted to buy me a new plug which is not exactly the same but I don’t find it. But my real question is if someone knows why this could be two cables? They’re on such a blue part? Does someone happen to know what that is? Because I don’t find a PIN assignment for it otherwise The gray cable what hangs there is broken off and belongs in the strongly oxidized plug

My Master II 2.5 dci 120 (about 90′ km) had already a crack when buying it. Especially this was noticeable in the 2nd gear during acceleration. It appears differently strongly. Recently however more often. In addition, a slightly rough engine run at full throttle. The consumption felt a bit increased. However, since I drive irregularly and no similar distances, it does not have to be It is also not significant, consumption is less than 9 liters. My explanation would be that a cylinder gets too little diesel. How can you best limit that? Can it be that the high pressure pump possibly supplies a cylinder irregularly? In idle mode and without load the engine rotates quietly. Only with more or less full gas the problem shows up. And not always and not equally strong. Does someone know the technology well? Does someone know a specialist in the Großra around east of Stuttgart greetings from Swabia Thorsten

Hello, after I got a very good offer for a Renault Trafic at meinauto.de, the car dealer with whom I should and wanted to order the car did not report for weeks. Then the offer was cancelled by meinauto.de, because it was allegedly impossible to deliver the documents. (You should have sent them.) Anyway, I am now looking again. Now I have found a similarly good offer at a car dealership in Mannheim for a Fi At Talento. This is supposed to be identical. But how “equal are the cars really? Can one simply replace a seat from the Talento with a seat from the Trafic? How is it with mirrors? If I look at the lists of suitable vehicles at Ebay dealers, I get the impression that e.g. the backlashes from the Renault fit to the Opel, but not to the Nissan and not to the Fiat. Can anyone confirm that? How about other parts?