Category: Renault Trafic, Kangoo & Master Forum

Trafic Transporter as a train horse? Hello, the eight years that I already know the Opel Zafira and drive with much joy can always only bring about a decision: Again and again Zafira. But unfortunately he has no AHK. And that brings me into big problems: Actually, because of the age it is not worthwhile to retrofit these still. Also for health and for financial reasons I follow my already earlier hobby: camping. With tent no more goes, against speak hal As a result, there is now a residential pea. The Zaffi could already function as a towing vehicle purely in terms of performance. But is it worth the rather expensive purchase for the AHK at a year 2000 (approx. 300 EUS)? Or should I look for alternatives? How recommended would it be as a towing horse of the Renault Trafic Combi? (equal to Opel) How recommended would it be as a towing horse of the Opel Vivaro? (equal to Renault) How well does a VW transporter TDI run as a towing horse for a caravan? rhalt, consumption, repairs) proves to be a “trafic” TDI? Which versions/versions would be recommended? Please look forward to all information and opinions. *welcome* saxvoyager

Hello, start here again the topic, which unfortunately there is only a very old post from a Clio owner. I have a 2.5 year old Kangoo Diesel, which has a considerable damage due to metal chips in the tank. Captivated are all 4 injectors, the pump and the tank is to be changed. 4.500 Euro damage and allegedly it is not a technical problem. I did not do wrong. Tank my diesel almost always at the same gas station. Where do these impurities come from? Renault I have the suspicion that the pump had technical problems. But I’m a technical layman. Who knows more or has experiences? Somehow it can not be that one fills in in good faith and then plays Russian roulette and remains at the expense of repair ?! Would I have information of any kind or tips, how do I deal with Renault, I accept a culling offer of 30% ?! Many DANK

Hey people, I have bought a Kangoo Phase II Built. 2001 Mot.Code: D7F 726 recently. 1.) I have the problem, which occasionally fails the speed indicator and at the same time of course the odometer no longer counts. I then removed the sensor on the transmission, cleaned contacts and again plugged on it. In addition, the plug is attached with a cable strap to secure it against slipping. Unfortunately, the problem continues. As sensors to my knowledge ( k) if I’m wrong ) not even work and sometimes not, but are healthy or broken, I would like to know if this problem is known and what possible causes of error you can call me, or what help can do. 2.) I have 2 remote controls. With neither of the two reacts the vehicle ( does not close to/to ) and yes, I have already changed the batteries. Unfortunately I heard that the receiver in the vehicle should be very expensive, so would not like dara uf come back. Is this problem known and are there other causes that could be? 3.) Every now and then the 10A fuse for standlight links pops up. sometimes yes, sometimes no. Known reasons, causes? Or what else is going on about this fuse besides the standlight? Does someone help? 4.) The noise level in the vehicle is very loud (transporter! ). Does anyone have a good idea to lower it? Maybe certain ( should be as cheap as possible) insulation materials? 5.) And last but not least, know someone the size of the speakers at the front of the dashboard? The now installed are absolute sch….. and I would like to exchange them. Thanks in advance. MFG Sven

Hi, yesterday on the road short twitch. that in a rafic II dci 1.9 Bj 2003 After that in urban traffic repeatedly twitch when UPM over 2000… After that I gave dme all the attention. So whenever I went over 2000 came a jerk and the engine stopped and then fell back under 2000 as soon as this was exceeded again that same. I could only drive if I switched early, he did pull in this UPM area normal. Sometimes the engine/glow candle light went about 5 km. After that a short turn off, looked if something is loose somewhere, was also at night thanks to time change. Nothing seen. Continued to make the 5 km home. In short, nothing at all he regulated from about 1600 RPM, 3 km were still to be mastered, shortly in the city stopped waiting for 5 minutes again I could drive the remaining 3 km normally without the jerking. Since then, I have not driven any more. What could be the cause? ICh must confess that I used to use the car every day because of work (30-40tkm) until February since then only very sporadically should be called once a week about 20 km otherwise the only place is around… Shame on my head. The trip that had preceded the whole yesterday was a total of 250km on a sunny Sunday noon!

Servus, this morning my wife calls and says that our Kangoo (bj. 98 1.4 75ps 165000 KM) starts but goes out again and again. She started working at 5 o’clock and has had to cool down at 10:00 hours. 5 hours the car has had to cool down. Early at 4:30 she has started normal. I can always make a long distance diagnosis bad, I need the thing in front of me. She was then picked up with our son and she just left the Kangoo. After work I am dangerous with my son. I have noticed that she runs as long as I keep my foot feeling on the gas. As soon as I leave my foot it goes off again. I decided to drive in a Renault workshop to ask what that can be. 2 traffic lights further she ran quite normal and did not go out. Temparatur I think. At the Renault they said as always “We have to connect it to the diagnosis device to see what is going on, costs 35 Teuros!” No tips or so Then I went to the car clinic to ask because they know each brand. They connected a diagnostic device and found no mistake. Cost: 0 Teuro! We think it has something to do with the Temparatur Geber. Has someone had something like that? Gruss Sean

Hello all together, my 10 year old Kangoo has problems with the reverse gear, krangst ab u zu, the first two gears hook occasionally, if I let the clutch come and press again, let the gears settle easily. Does this necessarily have to lie on the gearbox? The workshop told me, a new gear is to cost 2000Euro, that is too much for me. I as a woman have not much idea, there are perhaps other possibilities that could lie on it. Have in the contributions h can you give me some advice so that things don’t get so expensive? Thanks zwilling 54

At this point I would like to clean up the incredible disinformation stands, which i.e. on above mentioned topics, because I have angered myself about the fairy tales, which a Renault dealer told my friend, when she confidently turned to him because of the non-functioning of the ZV of our Kangoo. 1. “ZV chip broken when the ZV no longer goes. Costs with transponder approx. 110€” Here the Renault expert meant, if the red lamp on the key does not glow when pressing the Konopfes, be the chip broken. To prove “changed” the battery, and nothing went. Sure, if one installs a void for evidence purposes. The fact is, the ZV does it even without Redlight, just very close to the Fzg.. Change battery, (0,26ct), pay attention to springing contact in the part of the key, where the battery is folded, and it’s all right. 2. “Fzg. does not start. WfS defective.” There are iron transponders, which are simply glued in the key, see like a 5mm long piece of nem S. and there are coil transponders with iron core, which are soldered on the chip and are also fed by the button battery. If the battery is empty, the Fzg. does not start any more, because the magnetic field of the coil can no longer interfere with that of the WfS (interference), so the WfS is switched. So: Don’t let a bear tie up, open the key and replace the batteries! 3. “Reading in keys” is the fact that the ride is broken! After changing the battery, the key, ZV and WfS will work again, because the keys delivered with the Fzg. can always correspond with this WfS. If you did not get the key numbers on an aluminium flag, write down the number a. d. chip, if you open the key. If you get this chip reordered, a fee is paid for. It is unnecessary to read a naxch key!!!! Great at Renault: the key beard is replaceable, and can be done with every key service. Cost: 3€! All other information is: naaa? In case of loss, no complete key with read-in has to be purchased! This “friendly Renault expert” with the good side earnings we will put on the pot properly on Monday!

Hands away from Renault Trafic as used car!!! 2009 bought a Renault Trafic 1.9 DCI 80 year 2002 from the dealer. Within 12 weeks I had two gear damage. 1st time property defects liability of the dealer. 2nd time liability of the transmission supplier of the replacement gear for 1000 Euro. Installation cost approx. 500 Euro. New ÖL for the transmission you have to pay yourself(minimum 100 Euro for the required by renault) After 4 months came still the servo pump, bursting like a plum, have something like this Now, after 13 months, the dealer and taker cylinder came at the same time. Oil had been running out for quite a while. At the same time, the workshop determined a leaking steering gear. The repair costs now about 1500 euros with parts. Everything in all I have put 2000 euros into the car so far and did not drive 20000 km with it. The KM – stand is now 204000 for a diesel and truck a laugh, but Renault says this is normal. I know for now that the smaller Renault Trafic have the transmission from Laguna, which is of course too weak for a truck with charge. These clutch problems in connection with gearboxes are very common. ALSO RAT from me. :X Buying a Reault Trafic avoid, only so Renault will change something!!!!!! So have the muzzle full, car still in the workshop. There is also another Trafic 2005 with gear damage. Additional:XInfo, the 6 gear is even more vulnerable! MfG Johny66

Hi guys, I have to get some air. I bought my Trafic from 10/2010 about 7 months ago, it’s a 114 HP dci. It was a demonstration car with about 500 km. Since then I have already got a new light mesh, a new steering wheel and a gear knob. I’ve been in the factory several times because my combi instrument fails and error messages were due to injection or engine problems. And they don’t get it in the grip. I’ve been in the workshop twice for this reason. I have to fight for a rental car. It is so annoying and hard. I need the car professionally. I don’t feel like it now and no more trusting in the car.

Hello, my BJ06 Kangoo somehow spins. This year was my first winter with him. When it started to get colder he always jerked after letting on. In the summer when it was really warm he didn’t do this. So you let him on and he jerks and runs somehow restless, whom you drive and step on the clutch within the first 1000-2000 meters, without giving gas, he actually always goes out. Who I just lightly give up the whole time standing gas don’t dan. I was already at ATU, who have g I couldn’t show you that jerking because he was warm. They just said that he was so cool and they could now look blindly for the mistake but that would be quite expensive, of course, because they didn’t see the mistake. Who he ran warm then he runs wonderful. What can that be? What can I do there?