Category: Renault Trafic, Kangoo & Master Forum

Hello, I’m new here in the forum, how could it be different….with a engine problem: My Master 2 / Opel Movano, which was bought two years ago and converted as a camper with G9u 650 engine and 160000km, builds overpressure in the valve lid. Opens the oil filler lid as if with a hairdryer. Or from the connection of the crankcase ventilation, depending on what you open. Crankcase ventilation seems to be usually. If you give gas the pressure less. After a colleague and I had modified the glow plug connection, one could also measure: 20bar,18bar,18bar,26bar. Does anyone have an idea? Blowby after 160000km? Cylinder head gasket? What else could I try next? Unfortunately, no hall is available, so he is now standing in front of the garage. He actually does as always..no increased smoke and no power loss. Does anyone have an idea?

Recently we had the following experience with the same Citan from Mercedes-Benz: We had signed up for the “testing” of our e-bikes in a MB branch to find out if our two e-bikes fit in a Citan standing and without disassembly. Before we buy a Citan/Kangoo, we would like to inform ourselves beforehand whether the car is sufficient for our purposes. Unfortunately, the “testing” failed due to an empty battery and the ignorance of the employees how to cut a The rear door opens when the car is powerless and cannot be opened by radio key. With our caddy, this simply works by key rotation in the rear flap lock, but with the Citan this was not available. In the meantime, we were able to make the test with an older Kangoo II in the familiar circle – it fits closely, but is enough because we do not have to push the front seats to the far back and the front wheels of our e-bikes can be placed in the behind the hollow. The targeted gasoline engine with automatic is unfortunately only with 0 kg. Towing load indicated, so we would have to buy a switch (1350 kg. zul.GG.) to pull our small caravan. My question to the Kangoo II owners: how to open a closed tailgate without a radio key at Kangoo II? It is unimaginable for me that there should be no mechanical solution for this (key, unlocking). LG OldFan

Hello dear forum, this is my first post here, but I’ve been reading with you for a while. I bought a Master 2.2dci 66KW in April and was really satisfied. The first problems started when he started to jerk at the cold start. This was actually always gone when the engine got warmer. I drove to the workshop of trust and it made the LMM new. After that everything went well. Two weeks later I drove on the motorway with full load (130km/h) and the engine went into the emergency run, the ignition lamp turned on and I could only roll to the right. Just waited, restarted and everything went again – but I also drove much slower (110km/h). The next day in another workshop the fault memory was read out and it came: Then I drove back to the workshop of trust with the same list as above. On the way there he also hit the highway at 110km/h. Now he was in the workshop for a week, the e made the following new: The workshop called me and told me I could pick him up. Then I went and wanted to go to the next gas station. Car immediately jumped on and first/second gear everything was great. When switching up into the third again: Ruckle without end. Fourth gear also, but always only at constant speed. At fluctuating speed no jerking was noticeable. Then back to the workshop, car left. Now the workshop manager calls me and said he knew Is there any idea of what the problem could be? Best regards Hannes

I’m just really in a bad mood because I got a motor control unit (Siemens EMS3134) from a Kangoo 4×4 gasoline engine with K4M engine is dead. I drove the week still by car to the stage. I then built everything out because of transmission damage. So engine with gearbox complete, which is it must also the wire harness, battery, engine control unit etc everything out. Today the whole Rödel back in and nothing goes more. I had first caught a dead battery, but then another r one and disc glue. WFS does not go free and no communication with the engine control unit. Backup iO. and at the MSTG also comes power. The control unit attached to another construction like Kangoo and the same problem. No communication. Another steering grit to the Kangoo and everything iO. I can read out errors etc. Because of the WFS of course, nothing. So the steering grit on made and seen in. Nix burned, no cold soldering spot etc. Time briefly with the F The UCH is again an N3 with 3 plugs …. not my day today … 🙁 I don’t need to fetch a used steering grave because of the WFS . If I knew how to get one completely deleted I could get one from the recycler . It has to go somehow , see here . The re-progamming is not a problem for me . https://www.ebay.de/itm/273090017273?…

If today’s buddy comes to me who wants to build a parking aid at his Kangoo II Maxi , or rather a “rempelwarnanlage ” . The Holde has now already hit back left and now front right and left . He is visibly angry …. Now he arrived with a parking aid for front and rear in a system . Some Ebay , Amazon , Aliexpress scrap . To the hardware are 1 set of long cables with sensors connected to the control unit with no intermediate plug at the shock rod and 1 set of short cables with sensors on it even without intermediate plug. So drill holes, sensors in and the cables from the front completely through the whole car to the control unit. Makes sense because you never have to dismantle the front bumper …. The same only the shorter way. No matter we have still nothing built in. Now to the connection plan of the 4 cables for the power supply see picture. Mass is clear, yellow is for the back, red will be a permanent plus ( 15) and the bla ue ?? My guess would be that I should get a speed signal from ABS here like with original systems, but from the English I don’t get smart. Connect Feel Brake “+” If that’s so wondering but which one I should tap there and then I can also put a cable up to the front ….. what a scrap …. I could also build the control unit forward to shorten the cable paths, but garbage remains nevertheless.

Good day, I have recently been the owner of a Kangoo Rapid KC 2004 1,5dci so far I have been able to repair a lot of the Kangoo, but now I despair in several places, for which I open a topic, because I find no answer or the solutions did not bring me any further X( So the blower is completely without function, in the interior when I drive I get only driving wind in, I have been looking for a fuse for the blower for days, because under the steering wheel I looked through everything and the e are all ok, you could send me a picture, if all are really stuck and I did not switch, since I had tested all before without knowing if the ventilation went now or it was only the driving wind xD Even after longer driving, the fan wheel does not work. can you test it somehow? (please explain for lay how^^) have changed the resistance under the windscreen wiper, does not bring anything. Where do I find the relays? in the engine room is also a safety box asten, but find nowhere a plan of occupation, which security for what is.. In the appendix picture of the safety box in the engine And is the other picture of the blower engine? many thanks already

Hi dear forum, I’ve been looking for a suitable car and I’ve come across the Renault Kangoo – I’d be happy if you could give me a few tips about the car. I’ve been driving Laie and of course never this car, especially for several years. So, if anyone has experiences with it, please share your knowledge! – It’s important to me that I have enough space in a car – for the transport of snowboards and co. I also want to remodel the car in this way, that I can sleep in it. As I’ve already seen, the Kangoo is doing quite well, because you can fold the back seat over super and is also relatively much space. Of course the fuel consumption is also not unimportant – and the Kangoo would definitely be better than a minivan or other car with sleeping possibility… – I have a Kangoo in mind – Built 2007 (Ice 1.2 16V) 170,000 km 75hp – 4000€ According to the seller serviced with all invoices since the beginning. Are there many repairs in the near future? What are your experiences with your Kangoo??? I am grateful for every information! Greetings Ella

Hello, I wanted to replace the carrying/managing joints, because I have there game. ( Last year were exchanged for the 2nd time. At the winter tire I noticed a big game) Now I wanted to do it myself. (Or it may be that the upper screw is not really tight. And therefore has game. EXCLUSION: I wanted to pick up the car. Loosen the upper screw. Pull the upper screw out and then the three screws off and the new carrying joint back in. That’s right or I need a press to get the thing out. If so, can I build something from the hardware store myself? Or just pull it out strongly? I’m grateful for every tip. I didn’t find anything big. I’m supposed to be riveting in the Vivaro. Where should they be? Someone has tips. Here I looked:https://www.google.de/search?… Grandma needs help again.

Hello together, have a curious problem with my Renault Master 2 camper van (built in 12/2006, engine 2.5 dCi with 114hp) I bought the camper almost 4 weeks ago from a dealer. With warranty and warranty, already in advance. During the approx. 130 km long transfer to our home everything was fine. Last Friday (26.07.2019) we wanted to leave for a weekend trip. However, our joy was reduced relatively early. The following error picture: If I drive on the right lane at 90 km/h and then give gas in the 6th gear at 2000 revolutions for overtaking, the engine runs out at 100 km/h in the overtaking process. This happens also in the 4th gear when I drive on the highway. Every time I give gas at 2000 revolutions. On Friday the error occurred quite early. Outside temperature 38 degrees (Why I mention this? Because I suspect there is a connection) Saturdays to the Renault Werkstatt Ausl 1. DEF = measured pressure to high 2. DEF = measured pressure to low 3. DEF = leak detected in high pressure 4. DEF = fuel overpressure 5. DEF = pressure drop in the ramp 1. Diagnosis of the workshop diesel filter. Shortly consultation with the dealer the was exchanged. Yesterday then test drive on the highway. At first everything seemed fine, error remained away. Then after approx. 40 km down, descent up again towards home. After 5 km it went off with the error. In the 6th gear in the 4th gear, even once in the 5th gear. Outside temperature was 29 degrees. Have the feeling of the errors occur as soon as in the engine compartment is really muddy. The Renault workshop suspects next leaky fuel line, but what is causing me to break my head, that the error occurs only after some time… By the way, by the way, no pressure can be built with. Index for fuel lines? Thank you for your answer already in the vora Us. Greetings Jens

Hello everyone, For a few months I have been the owner of a Renault Kangoo 1.2 16v bj.2006. Unfortunately, the interior lighting does not work. When the doors are opened, the door appears open symbol in the speedometer, but light does not work. The same when you press the switch on the lamp. Safety in the footroom is already changed. The bulbs also. I removed the lamp and connected it directly to the battery for sample, there it worked. If someone has an idea what the Probl could be?