Category: Opel Agila & Karl Forum

I’ve been driving a nail new Opel Agila B 1.0 since early 2008. I don’t have any problems with the vehicle. Hbe down now almost 8000 km and have now discovered flight rust on the trunk lid. I thought I was tilting out of the latches. Is a clear guarantee case. Who has similar experiences. How is the warranty performance regulated.

Dear Agila drivers and Opel experts, does anyone have experience with a sporadically occurring total braking failure at the Agila B? I try to follow a hint of a driver from the family circle, it would rarely result in total braking failure, i.e. brake pedal on one time through to the floor plate and no braking effect, by pumping on the brake pedal then everything is ok again.The only thing I could find regularly is that the back pressure on the brake pedal after starting minim I first had the sound so-called TÜV with brake dynamometer done without any problems. Of course you can now say like the workshop “driver spins”, but maybe an expert among you also knows whether there are any occasionally yielding valves / flaps or the like in the brake system, because that sounds like that. Do you tap on brake power amplifier or on the brake power distributor? The car, by the way, does not lose any brake fluid. The problem arises in the cold November city traffic in the lowlands and not in connection with “hot brakes” or mountain rides, so a steam formation in the system can be excluded. The car is 7 years old and has only real 40 Tkm on the Tacho, switchcar with diesel engine [yes, I know, is uneconomical with the driving performance 😉 ] Too bad that I am not a US citizen. I could change from GM/Opel probably claim a million compensation. Here in D only the troubleshooting remains without help from Rüsselsheim. But maybe with yours? Thank you!

Hello all, I have an Opel Agila A 1.0 12V Twinport – engine marking Z10XEP (built in 2005) and would like to know exactly where the engine control unit is located. I would also like to know how elaborate the removal is. Do you need special tools for this or can you do it with “normal” tools? In addition, the question is whether someone with the error code P1526 (mistakes with the actuator – throttle flap) knows? Unfortunately, this cannot be deleted and stays with different a throttle flap :/ Would I be happy about tips! Thank you in advance! Greetings, David

Hello is someone here who can help me? I got into my Opel wanted to let him on and everything at but no resistance and no ignition, he went out also no longer so I took him off the battery. New lock ordered panel and turn signal removed. So now my problem around the housing of the lock is once again a plastic cover, which I just can not get off, so I can not get to the hole where I have to enter with the screwdriver around the Z I’m grateful for every tip. LG Heipo

Hello, unfortunately, at the HU of my Agila 1.0 Bj 2001 the carrying joint li. v. and the track rod joint right inside was criticized. If I see it correctly the handlebar has to be removed (trag joint individually I did not find), to this before the stabi are dismantled, does not seem so difficult. To the track rod joint inside I would have to say probably the track rod new. Can one give me a few tips on this? Greeting Andreas

Hello together, have just tried to switch from winter to summer bikes at the Agila the woman. Then the following problem appeared for me insoluble: The wheels at the Agila are fixed with nuts, the standing bolts are stuck in the rear brake drum, looks like an inpressed multi-tooth. Now a mother is so stuck that when the bolt is released, the bolt turns along. This happened to me at a rear and a front rim. So I did not get rid of the wheels. Is there something to do? Does anyone have a tip? Can a bolt be “attached” in the workshop again or has to be a new brake drum for the rear and a new one for the front …., I have not been able to see exactly how the bolt is fixed in the front. Does anyone have a tip / idea? Thank you very much.

Hello my pearl has lost the cover of the remote control from her ignition key, at Opel she was told that she can get her a new one for 260 €, great. Doesn’t someone have such a lid or know where I get it from?

Hello, four months ago I had a heater installed (petrols) and since the latest trouble with it. About 3 weeks ago I noticed an unusual exhaust gas odour during operation, in the car and outside. When it became much colder last week I noticed that the heating was running significantly weaker: after half an hour of operation it had just received the lower third of the windscreen ice-free at -5°C. I claimed during installation operation. It was not possible to explain this and promised repair on guarantee. Today, the awakening: The supply line was allegedly blocked with dirt from the tank. The repair was then no longer on guarantee and I got rid of almost 300 Eur! In addition, it was said that I had to have the tank cleaned, otherwise this could happen again at any time. Furthermore, I was advised not to refuel at free petrol stations and to ask myself before refueling, if perhaps only recently the Ta The Agila still has a guarantee – I wonder if the tank could have been polluted from the factory. I already called the Opel dealer – they want up to 500 Eur for a tank cleaning and a renewal of the fuel filter. Greeting Erik

Hello dear talker, I am new to the forum because I am dissatisfied with my current situation. my little agila I have now driven 55 000 km without any repair. he is well maintained check book, because I use the alleged advantage of the lifelong guarantee. however, that also means every year to see through to the opera workshop. and that was now already in March 2015. have paid for the usual view 250 euro and I thought with that again I am well cared for and always on the safe side. now my great disappointment, last week there was a big bang and on the road lay the exhaust pipe to the end silencer. my opera workshop however showed itself calm and meant that this can happen, something rusty from the inside through. but where remains for me the safety when I am on track and feel all around safe because my car is experiencing a constant maintenance. well every case I was installed a new end silencer, for a total cost of 245 eur o. now I look at the calculation and see that this is not even an original end muffler from opel. so far I thought that opel in his workshop at least always used original components? outside I could have got one for 79 euro. it is worth it now even the guarantee to let run still further, i.e. continue the annual inspection at opel or do not come better to make the repairs at opel at all and in future to go to a free workshop? maybe you can give me some tips.

Moin together, my daughter is just buying her first car. On the dealer tour (Munich area) she stumbled over this offer. According to (free) trader allegedly a retired car from 1st hand (which is why the supposedly few KM). I am always skeptical about this, as today the tachos are manipulated. After all, with only one previous owner it is not to be feared that of the 35,600 km the first 30,000 were driven by the first owner in 2 years and the rest in the following 9 years (unless he has not been driven for years before the sale, which can quite happen with old people). “Rentnerauto” is probably the standard reason for old cars with little KM. I haven’t seen the car myself, but daughters rave of a super well-kept condition on the outside as well as on the inside. She has already tried it: “runs great”. She definitely wants to have a workshop look over it before a purchase. Winter tyres would be d at the price also go 300 €. Would the price be so ok? If it goes down so quickly in the price, it smells suspiciously like shopkeepers. Well, the Agila is not exactly a beauty, for my feeling. What do you think, can you buy it reasonably unconcerned? Unfortunately, I don’t know anything about the Agila and its strengths and weaknesses. What is special to pay attention to? What does it like to break? Does the engine type have known problems? Fuel consumption appropriate? Would really be grateful, who PS: According to the description he should have aluminium rims. I only see plastic wheel caps on the pictures, you too?. Maybe the winter bikes are already mounted (or still!!!).