Category: Opel Agila & Karl Forum

Hello, the following scenario: I purchased a 2004 Agila A with Z12XE, which turned out to be very complicated. Main problem: The vehicle brings AGR error messages and goes into the emergency run, which would not be unusual, aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa Unfortunately, the engine control unit is a version of 2001 – when this model still had an AGR. Thus, the control unit asks the correct function of the AGR and, of course – because it does not exist – makes a mistake. The retrofitting of an AGR valve is not so easy, since there are no corresponding cables available. So probably the original software for the Z12XE from BJ 2003(?) should be played in the control unit without AGR. Jet As I don’t have a security pin to the vehicle as well as the built-in control unit, the FOH probably can’t do that. There are papers and proof of ownership about the vehicle, so I could have a new car pass issued. However, I don’t get a car pass to the built-in control unit (VIN would be available). Therefore, the questions: Is there a simple, affordable way to read out the current security pins of the control unit and speedometer or using the V To get IN’s? (I’ve already gone through the Internet: I’m probably going with Op-Com Advanced, but I don’t know anyone who has that. With Op-Com China replicas probably only with version 1.39, but supposedly only with Corsa C. Otherwise only with soldering and reading out the chips) Does anyone even have a suitable software for the Z12XE 2004 without AGR? Which could certainly help here also the FOH, if the PINs are known and everything is reset correctly & registered again. G Is there perhaps any other way to program the AGR out of the control unit or to suppress the error without having to retrofit the AGR and the wire harness? Thank you for your help.

Since July I drive an Opel Agila Bj. 2003 with 125000 km mileage. At the beginning I had the impression that the engine is quite loud and/or can be heard in idle mode a rattle / clacker. Oddly enough you can hardly hear it from outside with open bonnet. I had asked at ATU and there they thought the noise was normal for a 3-cylinder. Shortly afterwards I had the brakes renewed at the Opel dealer and there also nobody has anything about a Noise said that didn’t belong there. But I didn’t explicitly ask about it there either… But somehow I have the feeling that the noise has become stronger, but can also deceive me, because I always hear any noises on the car anyway 🙂 It only occurs, as I said, in idle, as soon as I give some gas, it is gone. Can it really be normal for a 3-cylinder ?? Thanks for answers ! LG, the Lexi

Hello, I’m new here on MotorTalk and would be happy about help.I drive an Opel Agila A Color Edition red Built 08/2001 1.2l 16V 55 kw approx. 70000 km. Now I have the following problem. For a few days I can no longer open the tailgate. If I put the key in the lock and turn is no sound to hear and the lock does not unlock. In the meantime I had removed the inner cladding of the tailgate and tried to open the lock via the bars, a About it doesn’t work. Does anyone have an idea how to open the tailgate without leaving a big batch of money at the FOH? I thank you in advance for your help. LG

Hello you, I imagine. My name is Timo I am 25 and drive a Agila B Year of construction 08. Living in Berlin and screwing. Aprospros screw…Thanks to Opel who have installed almost only cross slot and plug connections at the Agila <3 I made it my task to tune a Agila and had so far a-c Corsa Nunja I have done some things now 7x17 Borbet rims 195/40 r17 Conti Sport Irmscher underrun protection front and rear Friedrich Motorsport Endschal labsorber dark rear lights production panes color glass subsequently built fog lights foiled in black radiator grille foiled radio + sound system built in annoying beeps removed in the interior LED in the headlight and interior 50mm lowering soon tail flap handle emblem removed air filter system renewed if you have any questions I am also building a website on agila-tuning.de there I will learn many instructions from rebuilds in the near future Etten with photos etc

Moin moin, engine: Z 10 XEP from 2004. The Gutmann reader always spits out this error. The workshop/screw key lights sporadically. I plugged all the plugs one after the other on the engine height cylinder head to get on which the sensor is. Hang a few pics on it. But the car is running normally. I think it has something to do with the ominous intake manifold. Vllt someone knows more. Come out of the Audi /VW fraction rather like that.

Hello everybody, for 4 weeks I have my little Agila and it is really great. The circuit seems to me however quite angular and often hooks. The gearbox makes noises when I let the clutch come (in the upper area). It sounds as if a wheel continues/turns. On the highway I have a loud, roaring noise when braking from higher speed at the front. When the brake is released it is gone. At lower speeds it does not occur. Can someone write to me If that’s normal with an Opel. Had 12 years Ford and 12 years BMW, this is my first Opel. Maybe it’s typical of Agila and I’m smiled when I go to the workshop with it. I’m grateful for every tip.

Help The spray plates of the brake discs are completely rusty, are only available in fragments. They are no longer available, not at the Opel dealer, ebay or classified ads. Of course you can do this yourself. Not so easy but at the Agila. They are not screwed. I guess they had a round metal edge that was knocked into a groove. Exactly that is no longer recognizable. Did someone have the same problem? I don’t want to give up the car because of this. I understand until today n Is why brake parts are most made so cheap. Thank you in advance.

Hello together, my little Agila has TÜV and needs new brakes in the back. Now I bought some on the Internet, a complete set. It was said that they would fit for the car. They were even from Bosch. Now they don’t fit. My brother says they don’t go in. He didn’t help me any further, I should buy them from Opel expensively, but I don’t want them. Now I have sent everything back and selected new ones. Brand Textar. With this complete set from ebay is now there again, it fits When looking at the exact size/data of the car, what does it do with this car? Diameter of the selected brake : 200 mm Cylinder piston diameter : 15.87 mm Width: 29 mm What do I have to pay attention to? Do the mass fit for the car? Take care of what? Are there still differences in the brakes from the Agila, which has an influence on the brake purchase? The set was bought as pre-assembled as a set, so nothing should be missing? The data: Opel Ag ila A BJ 2001 EZ 2002 75 PS 2 L Nr. 2.1 License: 0035 Nr. 2.2 License: 389007 8 Do you need the chassis number? ( The selected brakes have the Ebay Article No. 372531854582 ) The front brake is also due. Is this ventilated or not with this car? Friendly greetings and thanks PS I am a woman, please answer intelligibly

Hello, 2 weeks ago I bought my daughter a Agila A 1.0 because she quickly needed a new car. Unfortunately, we quickly found that he has a very high oil consumption (about 2 liters to 1000 km). Moreover, the exhaust light has been shining continuously since recently. Oil mist from the exhaust can not be detected, however, it is quite worn out. Also in the stand he does not lose oil and the engine is slightly damp from the outside, but nothing special at 170,000 km running performance. The oil pressure sensor is also dry. I did a compression test with a warm engine today: – Cylinder 1 – 14.5 after 9 revolutions – Cylinder 2 – 14.5 after 9 revolutions – Cylinder 3 – 13.5 after 12 revolutions. After 8 revolutions he had 12.5 The spark plugs had red-brown color, but the candle of Cylinder 3 was quite oily on the sides. Also in the candle hole there was some oil. The oil looked however as if it was s It is said that he got one after the sign before 8000 km or 11 months ago. To the engine run it is still to be said that he shakes himself in idleness quite. But I suspect that this is connected with the exhaust light. I have to get a diagnostic device first, then I read out the error memory. But to the oil consumption I need hints and ideas from you, how I should proceed. Greeting from the north Reiner-Omega

Hello, I’m completely new here and also little forum experience. So I first ask a question in the room and like to take tips on where and how I really proceed in the forum. After hours of searching for an intake manifold for my Opel Agila I try the easiest way now. have bought me a Agila as a transition car which basically gives me more driving fun (if it runs) than expected. Problem is after a short time restless running (sawing) of the engine. LMM It’s not working. It’s only possible to drive with a disconnected plug, but it’s only limited, because the brake power amplifier doesn’t work anymore. According to Kreuzberg’s workshop, intake manifolds are broken. It’s hard to find for the small engine. If it’s Corsa at all. Can it fit? or can it be excluded? And if I can take only one Agila, what’s it like with the numbers (Bosch). Do they have to be 100% identical? For example, my number Bosch 0280600020 and possible purchase 0280600039 (BJ 2003) I am happy about every answer. If I don’t get any further I would have to separate myself from the vehicle (sigh!) And here still the vehicle data and thanks in advance for everyone who takes on the topic opel-agila-a-h00-1.0-12v-43-kw BJ 12/2000 Intake manifold Bosch 0280600020 GM 09157499 0035-388 WOLOHAF681G081052 and I don’t plan to change myself. the workshop would fit a used one.