Category: Opel Agila & Karl Forum

Good morning, especially today in the “snow-driving” the following problem occurs at our Agila A: With the FB the door was opened normally. After that, however, the door could not be closed: The bar or hook in the door no longer snaps back, remains firmly in the locking position. That is, when trying to close the door, the handle/lock bar attached to the B-Holm pushes against the lock/hook of the door lock or door lock and d He no longer snaps back into the “open” position. The door no longer closes. Instead, it swings up and thanks to the snowfall outside, it snows the interior. The interior lighting therefore stays on. The hook/bar in door lock mechanism sits bomb-proof and can not be caught back by force – with the other doors this works quite simply, slightly against it push and the bar/hook snaps back. I have now first the door from the inside with a cord tied, so that not too much snow blows in, and the battery clamped (because of the interior lighting), but that is not a solution. It is also striking that since then the FB of the key no longer functions – neither on nor on. The central locking as such, however, still works, i.e. both by turning the key in the lock as well as by the locking button in the driver’s door, the locking mechanism of all locks can be triggered. That the locking bar/snapper/hook of lock mechanics of the driver’s door remains in the “closed” position and is blocked. Outside it snows, it is cold, my ability and willingness to expand on mere suspicion the door panel and to try to understand the mechanics (if at all accessible) is therefore extremely limited. And since Sunday is also no workshop open. Does any of you know what is the cause and how I can fix it?

Hello! I bought a Agila A 1.0 three weeks ago, built in 2004 with 77 tkm. During the test drive I heard an unusual noise for me, but pushed it onto the 3-cylinder engine, which is now a bit rough and louder. But that has not been so true. In concrete terms this means: the car runs quite quietly when the clutch is idle, I take the foot off the clutch, it gets quite loud, a grinding noise arises. A strange sound, which sounds like a loud suction of air (is not, but sounds so similar). The switching process is problem-free, no cracking noises, nothing ticks or jumps out. Only in sliding mode it is a bit louder (surrender). The much-quoted transmission oil change has been made at 24 tkm. I was now in three workshops and got the following assessments: 1. Opel workshop: clutch rear bearing, No doubt about it 2. Free workshop: Clutch rear bearings in no way, since no noise when coupling is kicked, i.e. bearings are loaded. Possibly Lager of the transmission shaft, the outer bearing can possibly be changed without disassembly of the transmission, it still has to be determined. 3. Other Opel workshop: Outer bearings are not, because see above. Can’t be said, one has to build apart and look. Before that maybe again oil level in the transmission before you build. Thanks! And by the way: Yes, I know I should have listened more carefully, the purchase was not my best idea.

Hello, after the first problem now comes the second: the control chain , differently as with other car ́s this must be changed at Opel already after about 60,000 km , at least with me , the car tackert in idling without end. In various ranges was spoken of special tool , a tool is camshaft fixation like Opel special tool KM954, can someone send me the exact drawing with dimension !? Further there are in the net various providers of a control chain ( rep -Set ) The individual parts and prices go far apart here e.g. : – Scope of delivery: Control chain (endless) Guide rail Chain tensioner – Chain version Chain closed for 76,00€ 1xControl chain 1xGuide rail 1xGuide rail top 1xGuide rail for tensioner 1xChain tensioner 1xSeal for control chain housing 1xVentil cover seal 1xOil pump sealing ring 1xSeal for water pump for 118,50€ as much as until now white you need the seals then the time offer is the better choice, or !? Unfortunately, you can’t say what quality the chain is (where can you do that already). What should you pay attention to when buying ? Does someone happen to have a rep guide as PDF for me , would be really great !? Mfg Aggi

Hello together, I have recently been in possession of a Agila A; 2004 Bj with Z12XE engine and F12 transmission. The car had a transmission damage before I bought it, the dealer has claimed he has replaced the transmission against one with just 40,000km (who believes..). I changed the transmission oil shortly after maintaining what at least once made the switching feeling clearly better, went before quite tight. However, the transmission makes a few unsightly noises, such as a rotary fence Ldependent grinding noise. Sounds a bit like something with every turn at one point is grinding briefly on a tire. Apart from that, I have a sporadic steering wheel flapping/vibrating on the highway that then gets worse by giving gas and almost disappears by uncoupled. I noticed that the drive shafts in the gearbox have a pretty radial game. Here’s a video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dgzw24o1xp8wo3v/VID_20170415_134801.mp4?dl=0 Is the “normal” for the gearboxes? LG

Tomorrow, since the summer we move our Karl as second car. 6000km have already come together and we have not regretted the purchase in principle. Handy, practical and extremely pleasant to drive. Disappointing for a “modern” small car is, however, after the real consumption. It is currently at almost 5,47l/100km. As real consumption maybe not even so bad, compared with the previously used Corsa D, 1.2 liters, 70hp, but a real joke and little progress With exactly the same driving profile, the consumption here was almost 50,000km at 5.81 l/100km. For the fact that the Karl 200kg is lighter and the engine concept is more modern, the consumption difference with just 0.3l/100km is disappointing. I did not expect a -4- before the comma, but just over -5- then still…… Just as an experience from the Karl everyday life. Ralf Karl at Spritmonitor

Hello, I only had the Agila for a few weeks, and I would like to change or adapt a few small things.Interior lighting: I am disturbed that it remains permanently switched on and cannot be switched off when the door is open. Did I miss only one switch so far? If no: What can be done to enable a manual shutdown?Interior mirror: Before I drove an old polo and found out at the Agila that the interior mirror is a bit of a mirror. larger (especially wider) than before, but the mirror image is much smaller. I don’t like that at all. Is there (in this respect) better exchange mirror? Or what would you change/adapt to get a larger mirror image?Window lifter: Intuitive – and because I’m probably used to it from a Nissan Bluebird that I used to drive many years ago – I use the switches the other way around: I always expect the windows to be opened when I pull the button up and close when I press it down. Of course, always the exact opposite. Can the occupancy of the switches be changed?

Hello, where can I find information about standard approved tyre and rim sizes for my Agila A, year 2002? In the case of a Corsa (year 98), I was able to find out in the old vehicle letter which sizes are permitted. With the successor system (certificate of approval I and II) this was abolished. Stutzig makes me that I can read here TÜV – tyre sizes on pages 9 and 10 though sizes: 155/65 R14 75T ( 4 1⁄2 J x 14 – steel rims?) 165/60 R14 75T (Alu rims?) In this case 165/70 R14 81T there are actually only two possibilities: either it is another approved size (which I find nowhere), or the size is not permitted, and the TÜV has let the previous owner go through it (they may not even have looked at it). However, I would like to know if I can find reliable information somewhere. or is it actually only the two in the TÜV document?

This topic has already been mentioned here in the forum. It is about the compatibility of the installed transmissions. In particular the missing bore for the speed sensor from 2003. I bought an Agila year 2001 cheaply and would like to work it up as a replacement vehicle for my current Agila. My “Erstagila” is built in 2000, first possession. He has now 195,000 KM almost without repairs. It was once due a water pump. Otherwise he has oil change The clutch and the gearbox are still original. The “New Agila” probably has 110000 KM behind it. Now to my concerns: A replacement gearbox was installed. I compared the number and determined the year 2003. These are the gearboxes, where the hole to the speed sensor is “infused”! I had no idea about that at first. The speedometer was not working, probably the revometer. A “replacement speedometer” was located at the rear. In the trunk. A complaint with the seller is not possible for various reasons. The purchase price was cheap with 230 euros. I controlled the cables and was initially pleased to find a corresponding for the speed sensor. The speed sensor was missing. So I bought a new one and wanted to install it today. Unfortunately, did not fold, as bore to…. Has someone drilled up this shed to retrofit the speed sensor? How much material do you have to drill through? What is the problem? This is a stupid question at first… unless there is a way to drill without chips. I imagine that the chips will be sucked off again and again while drilling. Maybe it’s better to grind? Or is there another simple option? So without drilling. Maybe with another wiring? With the vehicles starting in 2003, the speed should be tapped via the ABS sensor. Only where? Is the old bore? Is it possible to upgrade Agilas by mid-2003? My Agila also has ABS.

My Agila, year 03 no longer starts. Opel scanner shows no error. Starter and battery ok. Tank is full. Specialist workshop checked the engine and says that the steering times are no longer right. It is assumed that the chain has skipped. Repair is supposed to cost between 600-800€. The Agila is worth about 1000€. The hydropumps also make light noises. The chain was completely replaced 4 years ago at 90 tkm. As it has also raced. Now the Agila 160tkm d How can a chain skip so easily? How does the ignition device work? Could it also have other reasons? Is the repair still worth it? Tires, shock absorbers and crossbars were made only Tüv 04/20. Looking forward to the answers!

Moin together, I am the Olli. I recently got above mentioned Agila very cheaply and decided to save it from the press. The purchase price is probably again to parts pure but most of it I can do myself. To my concern. I do not know the type of steering yet. Seems to be electronically controlled. My steering wheel is about 1/5 or tick more twisted to the left, but drives straight ahead. When braking it does not pull away sideways, remains clean in the track. The steering also clacks very loudly at full impact as if a gear is skipping. But I can still drive, only because of this I am even more careful in curves. Where can I best start troubleshooting? Tires are ok, no one-sided wear. Wheel bearings are also without play. Can anyone help me? Greetings