Category: Opel Agila & Karl Forum

Hello together, two weeks ago I had three problems in one topic, and no one answered it. So now a new run with only one of the three points: The lock on the driver’s side behaves “locky” – at least in relation to the central locking. I have to open and close several times before it starts and also open the other doors (sometimes richg often: between 10 and 15 times). In any case, it can be felt that the key doesn’t really turn clean. For comparison: There are no problems on the passenger side, and the ZV works perfectly.So what could be defective?Note: Having looked around the internet, I am almost afraid that the cause can be found in the locking cylinder itself. Whether it can be repaired at all or it has to be replaced altogether is the big question …

Hello, today I have a problem again. The vehicle of my daughter an Opel Agila 1.0, built in 2002, ran 160000 km now again a cooling water loss. The vehicle was already with water loss in a free workshop. The workshop master was a longtime master in an Opel workshop. After my knowledge a defective cylinder head seal was replaced. After about 2 weeks again no cooling water was in the compensation tank. Then a defective seal on the AGR was found as a source of error. This was renewed and now after a further 2 weeks the compensation tank was empty again from the cooling system. Now I drove once by car to the workshop. Now I was told that at that time not the cylinder head seal but the seal from the side cover was renewed. Together with the workshop master I have now filled the compensation tank with warm engine up to the edge with water. Then I the engine runs at an increased speed and then again and again small air bubbles rose. In my opinion this indicates perfectly a defective cylinder head seal. The workshop master is not convinced of my diagnosis yet and wants to do further test. Who can tell me something about it now? Is the head seal defective or not, or is the cause possibly entirely elsewhere? Thanks Helmut

Hi everybody, slowly my Agi is getting old Now unfortunately I have a problem again !! My tacho doesn’t go anymore ! He has shrugged a bit then caught again. Since yesterday he doesn’t go anymore. The needle has just suspended in the stand between 0 – 20 km/h, when driving it then also back and forth. On the highway she then completely said goodbye and now does not work at all. can someone tell me vlt. what this is ? Thank you already and always good ride.

I bought the Agila 1.0 12V with 58hp Bj 2000 for my wife half a year ago because we were looking for an economical city flicker and now the nasty surprise! The Agila consumes an average of 8.5-9l on 100km that can’t be normal. It has only 3cylinders and is drinking as much as a 110hp car?!!! Lt. Opel is still normal!!!!! I just can’t imagine that even when I look past the fuel monitor it looks quite different there! Already new spark plugs ÖL+ have changed all filters but unfortunately without success! Furthermore clapping and or sometimes squeaks it grinds so funny loud from the engine compartment just when switching into the second gear or quite bad when the climate is sounding as if the V-belt was loose or somewhere a bearing would be broken which would squeak loudly. At Opel it was said it could be that a tensioning roller from the V-belt would be slashed about 200€ incl. installation cost one must But don’t you know why the Agila consumes so much or if it’s really normal?? And does anyone know these COMIC noises from the engine compartment?? Did anyone ever have that??? I know it’s bad to answer funny noises even though you didn’t hear them yourself or as soon as I can’t describe them correctly but there can always be someone who wants to answer them. The most important thing is the fuel consumption. Thanks

Now I had to find out that this drum is not for ABS ! Does someone know how the inside dimension of the sensor is ? It has to be shrunk and I wanted to have the drum turned off in this area so that the old Senors still fit. Unfortunately the coverings also do not fit (GM 47 06 836) white vlt. someone for which type they are ? The coverings are in the Can any of you use it?

Hello guys (and possibly also girls), need (again) some help: We have two Agila A, around 2003/2004. One “spins” for a few days. For a few weeks the oil pressure lamp has been lit in idle mode (approx. 600 rpm). It goes out with some gas. According to the oil level measuring rod there is enough oil in it. Last oil blow before approx. 9 months, since then only a few thousand km driven. Akuell complains that the engine no longer “pulls”, car rides max. 70, almost run out in idle, heavy gas ang I started the engine. Normal, immediately jumped on, normal noise, idle speed approx. 600 rpm, oil pressure light is lit, starting at approx. 1600 rpm. I am not dangerous. I have read out the error memory (multiple): 0300 so (if it’s true) “several cylinders detected false ignitions” 0304 so (if it’s true) “cylinder 4 false ignitions” That’s all. I don’t know if there’s really current messages si And that doesn’t help me so much now. What can I check or does someone have a hot tip on what it might be? The oil-pressure lamp gives me to think, but if there’s something wrong, the error memory would have to say something?

Hello, after I had problems with the circuit from my little green Agila – at that time luckily only the rope pull was pulled out, the FOH even directed by kulanz – now my gearbox has finally said goodbye at the WE. When I wanted to switch from the first into the second gear there was only a violent blow and then in every attempt to couple in any gear only violent polking, banging and rumbling. Today came the horror report from the W but I don’t have this money, nor would I invest it if I had it, because 5,000€ is about twice the time value of the car. Long speech, short meaning: After a short search on the internet and with vehicle-restrictors, I found out that one gets used gears for the Agila already for about 500€. Now I had thought about simply getting the gears too My brother-in-law, who used to repair trucks, would even help me. He thinks, however, that this only makes sense if you don’t have to completely expand the engine for the transmission expansion, because he wouldn’t be confident about it. Has one of you already removed the gearbox on the Agila and knows what effort this is involved? Maybe even someone can give me a short instruction on this? And which gearbox does everyone fit in with the Z12XE engine? Only the F12CR? f different websites have already read that the F13CR also fits the Z12XE engine and not only the Z12XEP… Well, thank you for your help already in advance, until then. mfg Nick-O

Hello, today we decided to buy a Karl as a second car after a longer test drive. A car from the warehouse from our dealer, well equipped with zero KM(15) and daily registration, list price 14005€, for 1200€ plus overpass incl. 3 years connection guarantee. Karl Exclusive 1.0 75 HP metallic paint, comfort package, style package + exclusive standard equipment, I find a good price / performance ratio. On 03.09.15 we pick it up, I’m curious if it is so reliable is like my previous Opel.

Hi, I bought accessory wheels. It is the RC design RC30 in 6 x 15 ET50. Unfortunately, the tyres grind on the carrier, both when I turn completely to the left or right. But to the left it is much stronger. On the lifting platform you can also see that the tyre is on the carrier. And also here much more on the left side. Are there people driving the 185/55 R15 tyres? And how is the situation with the complete steering impact here. e 1. Inspection. I think you’ll want the steering to be stopped.