Category: Opel Calibra, Speedster & GT Forum

Looking for people who have had experiences with Opel GT. I would like to get one, but since I don’t know about cars – i.e. besides the usual little things I can’t do anything myself or even repair – would I like to know if there are any problems? And above all: how does he drive himself in winter? A car salesman said he doesn’t have a rear drive, but 50/50, and it wouldn’t be a problem if you took the smallest winter tires that fit the car. I’m going from the Westerwald to the Taunus. Thank you for your advice!

Hello first of all, I’m new here and have already informed myself a little about the topics around the calibra. Of course I don’t know if I have the right to open a new forum. My concerns or/or questions: I want to buy a Calibra as described above very soon. My questions to you are: How much horsepower can I bring it? How much harm can I do to the engine? What can I do at all? What do you recommend to me with the engine, turbo, exhaust etc. turn/improve, or buy? And at the end a somewhat stupid question, the tachometer at the dashboard, does it go up to 260 or up to 280? In the Internet/youtube there are always other tachos shown. So if you can help me that would be very great. Thanks already in advance.

Hello, I had to go to the Tüv and the one at the front to the right of the carrying joint. So I drove to a Free Workshop and gave them the order to change the joint. They did so too. Only in what way! The old joint was fastened with rivets to the cross-leker, so that the work first had to drill the rivets. Then the locksmith took a hammer and Meisel and removed the drilled rivets with it. Only he hit the axle to which the carrying joint was still attached. After 30 minutes!!), I wanted to go home and realized that it was a terrible blow when it was speeding up.And the track is also totally distorted. So I drove back to the factory. and they didn’t think that they had done everything right.And you didn’t have to stop the track, because they wouldn’t have done anything about it! If I was going into a left-over or the clutch, that’s it and the Cali runs quite quietly. I then drove to the foh, and she said: Then, that when the joint was disassembled, the drive shaft was probably damaged or pulled something out of the gearbox when riveting with the hammer. He would have had to release the drive shaft a little bit, or the carrying joint first from the axle. And the track would have to be adjusted, because something was changed on the chassis.And especially since my Cali was even deeper he would have had to install the carrying joint under prestress! So I drove again to this Pfu… workshop and wanted to clarify this. But no chance. They didn’t even try it to convince themselves that something beats. Now I turn on a lawyer after a huge fight. An expert commissioned him to look at the matter! The workshop now wrote to my lawyer that the car had even more defects. The brake lines would be a little rusty and he wanted to let me shut the car down by the expert. He couldn’t understand how I got it over the door. rage: Can this expert shut me down??

Hello, there are problems that you solve yourself and there are things that you discuss in advance. Location: -regular dull knocking, no valve clapping. With the help of the ignition gun, we could see that the camshaft wheel deviates from the mark after every 4th or 5th revolution by about a tooth width on both sides. -with an engine stethoscope we could hear the knock more clearly from the 1st piston – Based on the micro camera on the piston surface of the 3rd and 4th piston a bad too Seeing but blank spot -Zahntriebel: ohne Aufschrift (no name)? Is that crucial? First of all 2 videos, maybe there are good ideas, photos follow!!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7R7DMDg0iA&feature=youtu.behttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xiE25yaKwU&feature=youtu.be Thanks already Panic

Hello here in the forum; the week broke my cylinder head gasket. Was just on the way to work and then suddenly a huge smoke cloud behind me and loss of performance. I drove then still the approx. 2km of 6km further and then put it at the workshop (not a car workshop, but my work place). In the evening I then filled up the cooling water and then slowly drove back home, where a large part of the cooling water was gone again. During the test drive (after approx. 4km) he started to smoke again when he had driven warm. I got the creep and quickly looked back home and after the cooling water. But to my surprise everything was still there. Can it be that while I was driving with defective cylinder head gasket a part of the cooling water ran into the exhaust and now evaporated again when it comes to operating temperature. have had the same problem or is the error different? Drive the 2.0i with 115hp, C20NE, 200000km run by Built 97. I am grateful for every tip, Greeting Stefan

Hi guys, when I refuel, it doesn’t start right afterwards (it lasts about 30 s until it starts properly). Problem only occurs directly after refueling. After that everyone is like that, so if nothing had been. Motor lamp still glows. The following I have already done: 1. Error read out -> lt. code is the Kraffstoff pressure sensor broken 2. Am to Opel -> told me the same and a new sensor installed 3. Problem was not fixed 4. So again to Opel -they said m 5. Problem again not eliminated 6. again to Opel – this time they told me may be due to the software, but they have to ask directly at Opel one gets in touch with me. That’s the current state. Am really desperate. Someone an idea? What else can that be? MfG

Hello all, I have a 2.0 16V Last edition. 88TKM and everything original. The car should become a vintage car. The underbody and the cavities were preserved last year at the classic car specialist. The winter is over. From today (seasonal license plate) I can also drive again. Unfortunately the winter break did not do my Cali so well. In the garage was a large oil stain (actually a lake). As it looks at first glance the head seal. Actually I wanted this With proper oil loss and finished tires this will certainly be nothing with the TÜV. But it also makes no sense to put in a lot of money now and then put in the garage with new tires for a few years. I think I will moth it right away and start the repairs only in a few years – how do you see that? What should I take into account when mothing so that he will be well over the next years of course he is parked in a garage. I am grateful for all the tips. Thank you very much Andreas

Hello, I have a Calibra Turbo from 1993 with 215 tkm from 1st hand on the watch stand with me, completely original (no lowering, with all letterings, without phase etc.). Car is check book maintained and has no technical defects (all-wheel, climate, Turbo everything possible). From the outside there is no rust (wheel runs etc.), I still have to look under floor. Except on leather and sliding roof he has everything important on board (airbag, climate etc.). ssiker pick up (have already my Vectra Turbo) , or is it more for the end consumer in the kilometers? What could the car realistically still be worth to a lover ? Thanks and greeting

In agreement with the moderator, I will open a thread in which only pictures and comments about the shadow side of the beautiful Calis are posted, namely the brutal and ugly verbathe. I have recently encountered many Calis, which are absolutely terribly unsightly fashioned, with monster faces and such DEATH-HISSE tuning attempts, which actually achieve exactly the opposite. The Calibrans of such vehicles do not fear any such terrible spoiler. urück, in some people I have the feeling that they deliberately cover up the Cali, because you can’t be so blind at all. An example: http://seker-tuning.de/B_monster_opel_calibra.JPG Be happy about your examples. Note: Please stay peaceful! Provocations from other forums etc. will be reported immediately.

Hello, I’m new here. I inherited the Calibra (2.0l 1992 136tkm) from my father and of course he loses oil slightly. But I want to keep it (drive 518Touring). I am pleasantly surprised by the consumption (7,3l fully loaded at 130km/h)!!! I once got the seal for the round part that is installed in the front of the oil tank, because I thought it would come out there. There’s also a cable on it. Is that the Ól pump? Can I change the seal without taking off the oil tank, so just the three screws. Since I got 2 seals from Opel (outside/inside?) I think that the oil tank has to be removed as the inner part falls inwards, right? I found nothing in the search!