Category: Opel Motors Forum

hi! what is more material-friendly and allows a longer life of the engine to be expected? -driving in the highest gear on full gas (please only if the limiter is not reached in the last gear) or -driving in the penultimate gear at say ~1000rpm more and not full throttle? mfg djd

I drove to Hamburg on Wednesday (from Paderborn). After 240km at approx. 170km/h he starts to buck, no gas takes on, slows down… then I had hoped that the LMM had gone off. Luckily was just before the parking lot. I rolled out, clutch kicked out and was out the good part… well, look, everything was tight. Shit, I thought. I let it cool down and hit it again, sounds like a tank. Luckily I had such a protection letter for ridiculous 7€… I’m glad I’m looking for a rental car. I’ve got an Astra H at home. And my beautiful Corsa is standing in Hamburg… So I have to let the engine change again… And I thought the C20NE will last forever. So, I can only advise you, take such a protective letter from your V insurance. Hardly cost anything and can help you save a lot of money. (Towing costs 150€, car hire 280€, taxi to the owner 30€…You can easily get to 500€)

Hello together ! I’ve recently heard about a C20NZ engine that has just like the C20NE, 2.0i with 115 hp. What are the differences with these engines ? By the way have a C20NE engine in my Calibra, that’s why I would be interested. Greetings Primonan

Hello guys. I have a test. my control light from the oil print only goes out after about 20- 30 sec. This has an effect, for example, when I start my Vectra after a day the light stays as mentioned above, when the engine runs and I restart it immediately. Can anyone give me a hint what that can be? I have a Vectra A with OHC Motor C2.0NE 85 KW / 115 PS BJ. 10.93 Thank you for the answers.

Dear forum, in search of the reason for the undisturbed idleness of my 1994er Vectra A (C18NZ, to the best of my knowledge undisturbed or -getunted) as well as the m. E. too high consumption I went on the search for wrong air and looked at the vacuum system around the Multec times more closely. I noticed the following “connection” which I also cannot explain after reading the “Now I help myself”, the Haynes and many forum contributions here and elsewhere (see photo : The blue hose at the top left of the picture is, to my knowledge, the control line to the activated carbon tank of the tank ventilation, which, depending on the load condition, switches on and off the intake of the fuel vapours. This control line is connected to the Multec via the green marked hose. So far, so well, until here I understand everything (I think =). What I don’t understand is the red marked junction to the underpressure line of the brake power amplifier. r air sucked to the intake manifold of the 1st cylinder, which, in my understanding, results in this cylinder running thinner than the others. Consequently, the idle time becomes quieter and also slower when I press the red-marked hose, and again faster and more restless when I release again. Does anyone know if this is so original, and if so, why, and if no, how it has to be right? Thank you!

I bought an opel tigra from a public dealer (Russian). he assured me that motor oil was changed by the previous owner, with the car standing around for 6 months. Well bought the Tigra anyway, wanted to drive nicely to work and then the engine control light went on for oil. I drove to the next niche on the country road when I stopped the engine started to squeak easily. Adac to the workshop from the dealer finished, there I The oil was still quite liquid when it leaked out. No one says Hydrozünsel Kaputt as well as the camshaft. Oil lamp is now out. Conclusion: He installs a new camshaft and Hydrozünsel and makes a complete oil change, because the oil was so soft and the filter probably full (that again I know net). Info about the Tigra: bajahr: 98 running power 160000 km 1.4 eco tec 66kw my question is now… do you think the tigra will run properly after the exchange? or should I lie it about having another neutral workshop check out. what could still be broken on the engine and could it have been because there was too old oil in it that it only came to this point?

have from a certain operating temperature strong jerking in 4 and 5 strokes when I completely step through the gas pedal to record drive. as if not enough sprite arrives….curs itself like: drtdrt when the speed is extremely high, it is virtually away at about 140kmh it virbrates extremely and you notice it at the switch knob…. from 150-160 the vibration is almost gone. have already changed ignition plugs and ignition module, no improvement. today I switched off the agr, no change. tomorrow I change the petrol filter and make an oil change, I don’t know any more….it’s just annoying…. maybe you have another idea ??? thank you for your efforts

Hello, was straight in Marl and had my car miss the phase 1. The test bench measurement and everything went absolutely normal. On the return drive however, he started at speeds from 3500 to Ruckeln. In the 5th gear worse than in the 3rd all this went then once with the acceleration and strong Ruckeln also the MKL. After I took off the Astra times and then started again however this was again and also did not go on… this was rather because then I did not What can it be and how can I get it away? “feeling” somehow like ignition oscillations… Before the phase there was nothing at all… EDS I just wrote an e-mail…. Mfg

hallo.use necessarily the technical data of a Kent camshaft for the c20xe.name ast1602.the wave is already older and at Kent no longer in the program

Hi guys, have here still a cih head with large valve, believe 46/41, how do I recognize from which engine it originates? could also be that r is machined. on the camshaft stands DRM engraved by hand on it.