Category: Opel Motors Forum

Hello together, wanted to ask if someone has experience with the 2.0l 136PS Ecotec engine. Would like to know what it swallows as it pulls (in the combo or tile shelf), what torque it develops and how it generally runs. Thank you

Which moter is reliable. and has power from the opel motors 2Liter 16v. they have different names what do they say?

Hi to each other, wanted to get a little bit of performance from my 1.4 OHC. It would be best if I could get something out below. What would be the best measures for this? Maybe let your head plan a little bit? Does a fan curvature also bring out below what? Achso 280er Nocke and Gr.A ab Kat are already installed. I would be grateful for many suggestions.

I installed the C20XE engine in my cadet E Caravan. Before that the C20NE was in it, so I can say very well what to compare the two engines. I honestly found the C20NE engine pretty good, if you are “normal” to “slow”. But if you want to heat something, the C20NE seemed to me to be over 5000 rpm like “circumcised”. The C20XE, which I completely overhauled last winter (and which is now also registered – halleluja) makes at the He I prefer the C20NE in everyday operation (city, country road with traffic). For consumption: The C20XE should consume less? Is not the case with me, since I have always been quite high-touring – otherwise there is not much – so the average consumption with me is around the 11l. With the C20NE I drove with about 9.5l on 100km. I am also relatively fast on the road as I said… Okay, that was my conclusion to this engine comparison… now you can stone me a lap… 🙂 Good ride!!! With C20NE or the 16V…

hi! what is more material-friendly and allows a longer life of the engine to be expected? -driving in the highest gear on full gas (please only if the limiter is not reached in the last gear) or -driving in the penultimate gear at say ~1000rpm more and not full throttle? mfg djd

I drove to Hamburg on Wednesday (from Paderborn). After 240km at approx. 170km/h he starts to buck, no gas takes on, slows down… then I had hoped that the LMM had gone off. Luckily was just before the parking lot. I rolled out, clutch kicked out and was out the good part… well, look, everything was tight. Shit, I thought. I let it cool down and hit it again, sounds like a tank. Luckily I had such a protection letter for ridiculous 7€… I’m glad I’m looking for a rental car. I’ve got an Astra H at home. And my beautiful Corsa is standing in Hamburg… So I have to let the engine change again… And I thought the C20NE will last forever. So, I can only advise you, take such a protective letter from your V insurance. Hardly cost anything and can help you save a lot of money. (Towing costs 150€, car hire 280€, taxi to the owner 30€…You can easily get to 500€)

Hello together ! I’ve recently heard about a C20NZ engine that has just like the C20NE, 2.0i with 115 hp. What are the differences with these engines ? By the way have a C20NE engine in my Calibra, that’s why I would be interested. Greetings Primonan

Hello guys. I have a test. my control light from the oil print only goes out after about 20- 30 sec. This has an effect, for example, when I start my Vectra after a day the light stays as mentioned above, when the engine runs and I restart it immediately. Can anyone give me a hint what that can be? I have a Vectra A with OHC Motor C2.0NE 85 KW / 115 PS BJ. 10.93 Thank you for the answers.

Dear forum, in search of the reason for the undisturbed idleness of my 1994er Vectra A (C18NZ, to the best of my knowledge undisturbed or -getunted) as well as the m. E. too high consumption I went on the search for wrong air and looked at the vacuum system around the Multec times more closely. I noticed the following “connection” which I also cannot explain after reading the “Now I help myself”, the Haynes and many forum contributions here and elsewhere (see photo : The blue hose at the top left of the picture is, to my knowledge, the control line to the activated carbon tank of the tank ventilation, which, depending on the load condition, switches on and off the intake of the fuel vapours. This control line is connected to the Multec via the green marked hose. So far, so well, until here I understand everything (I think =). What I don’t understand is the red marked junction to the underpressure line of the brake power amplifier. r air sucked to the intake manifold of the 1st cylinder, which, in my understanding, results in this cylinder running thinner than the others. Consequently, the idle time becomes quieter and also slower when I press the red-marked hose, and again faster and more restless when I release again. Does anyone know if this is so original, and if so, why, and if no, how it has to be right? Thank you!

I bought an opel tigra from a public dealer (Russian). he assured me that motor oil was changed by the previous owner, with the car standing around for 6 months. Well bought the Tigra anyway, wanted to drive nicely to work and then the engine control light went on for oil. I drove to the next niche on the country road when I stopped the engine started to squeak easily. Adac to the workshop from the dealer finished, there I The oil was still quite liquid when it leaked out. No one says Hydrozünsel Kaputt as well as the camshaft. Oil lamp is now out. Conclusion: He installs a new camshaft and Hydrozünsel and makes a complete oil change, because the oil was so soft and the filter probably full (that again I know net). Info about the Tigra: bajahr: 98 running power 160000 km 1.4 eco tec 66kw my question is now… do you think the tigra will run properly after the exchange? or should I lie it about having another neutral workshop check out. what could still be broken on the engine and could it have been because there was too old oil in it that it only came to this point?