Category: Opel Motors Forum

Hi people at mienem kadet 1.4er motor c14nz is the timing belt jumped around about 2 teeth seinher runs the cart no longer correctly the factory city put it now probably right on it but logically runs again think times the valves are flat or? can anyone give me a tip? and fits on c14nz the cylinder head of the c16nz? the axe I still lie in the cellar … please tell me where my trading possibilities lie

The engine now has just 100,000km down. Although the glow plugs were changed at 80,000 the last time and also regularly the diesel filter was renewed – the engine does not start any more. My FOH has connected its clever device could not find a Felhler message. He said with diesel engines a injection pump error would not be indicated. After 3-hour troubleshooting the master – the injection pump must be replaced against a NEW -. Costs for this with E 2.350,- Euro – if nothing else is added. If someone knows – it can also be something else – or is it really the pump and this really is TEUER. The FOH could not even tell me if it is a Bosch pump or another. One could not check this also – only change against a NEW – the ALTE – should be disposed of but the first has to be removed so that a NEW one can be ordered there are about 10 different pumps the Can someone help me or give me a tip. Thank you very much in advance.

Hello, so the 1.6 8 valve is supposed to be a very robust engine. But what about power increases with it? Will the lifespan be greatly shortened? And which companies offer such a thing for the engine? Have found something from imotec before, but what I read about it here, they are not so grateful for the real would for infos. And please don’t write “Build another engine” etc. MfG Patrick

Hi, just had a KAT-total damage. Luckily, he had a guarantee and had him replaced, but now my Astra Z16XE (100hp) no longer has the power he had before. Before the damage he pulled on the A2 mountain from 220 and now I come on the same track only to 185. I also noticed that he only slowly turns up from 5000 revolutions. Otherwise I came quite fast until just before the speed limiter (6400). Can anyone help me further.

Hello guys! I didn’t even have my 95 Omega with 22TKM for a whole month. Today the (almost) worst thing happened to me, which I could only imagine: Motorway drive: I gas on the acceleration strip and off it is….I knew immediately that this must have been the timing belt. Towing costs could at least save me…my dad had free and could take me to the “Stangs”. At the friendly one there was still someone just before work. Got the Omega right there. .. …reperture costs approx. 1700 EUR, he wants to send the Zylindekopf away somehow and have it tested/processed???? Now I have until Monday time to say that I don’t have it done… …then I drove to a “free” Opel dealer, since almost all the small dealers of Georg v. Opel were swallowed here. There are the AWs a little cheaper. This even recommended me a replacement engine. Costs 4500 EUR. Supposedly 95% more is broken on the engine than the cylinder cop f., e.g. warehouse…. …and now? The car is at best still 4000 EUR value. I like to drive it! But would want to invest 1700 EUR only if it still lasts at least 2 years. Exchange engine I can not afford…. Does the car buy me at all with the damage?? If so, what is it worth? Please help me quickly! On Monday I have to decide……

hello, does this motor have conventional glowing candles that are only active during pre-glowing and are turned off danacsofort? or does this motor have after-glow candles? I think very strongly that this motor has no after-glow candles, but have read that there is a conversion set from beru for it…the corresponding glowing candles and a relay…is there anyone who can supply information about it? gruss support

Hello, I’ve been driving Opel again for a few months, an Astra 2.0 DI. Was 2 years of service founded unfaithful, a Golf 4 TDI with 90hp. I’m basically more satisfied now, only that the Astra needs instead of the 6 liters of golf nevertheless rather 7 liters. Since the temperatures are now 0 degrees, however, the engine will not be warm any more. I drive for my company 6 times a day 11 kilometers over land, and during the 9 to 11-minute rides the cooling temperature indicator does not jerk. The consumption is now also to 8 liters high although I drive neither highway or city, but only highway with 100km/h in 5th gear. Opel says everything normal. I say the spins, what I drive diesel if I need with 82 hp at 65km still 8 liters a day! The golf used to be also at -15 degrees after 6-7 km warm and did not consume more than 0.3 extra fuel just because outside are 0 degrees. Have changed thermostat -> no difference. 7000 km ago a new LLM came in. I am grateful for every info! Bo

Help – who can send me an dBilas-certificate by email or fax?? For my cadet E 2,0 16V I bought a single dBilas-drump. Since I needed the plant and bought it privately, dBilas leaves me stubbornly in the rain and does not give me an expert report. Their suggestion and only acceptance would be the registration in my own house. My note, which I have to pay 600Km for it, did not change anything about their proposal!! That I will never get anything from dBilas again we rde, is probably explained by this. So I advise everyone, but still need an expert report. Who can help me? Greetings Uwe

Here is the current error code table for all Opel models : Error code & cause 10 Code variant not programmed 12 Diagnosis start 13 Lambda probe – no voltage change 14 Coolant temperature sensor – voltage too low 15 Coolant temperature sensor – voltage too high 16 Tap sensor 1 – no voltage change 17 Tap sensor 2 – no voltage change 18 Tap control unit – no signal 19 Speed sensor – wrong signal 21 throttle valve potentiometer – voltage too high 22 throttle flap en-potentiometer – voltage too low 23 tap control unit 24 speed sensor 25 injection valve No. 1 – voltage too high 26 injection valve No. 2 – voltage too high 27 injection valve No. 3 – voltage too high 28 injection valve No. 4 – voltage too high 29 injection valve No. 5 – voltage too high 31 speed sensor – no signal 32 injection valve No. 6 – voltage too high 33 AGR vacuum control valve – voltage too low 34 AGR vacuum control valve – voltage too high 35 idle control ntil 37 Engine malfunction warning light – Voltage too low 38 Lambda probe – Voltage too low 39 Lambda probe – Voltage too high 41 Speed sensor – Voltage too low 42 Speed sensor – Voltage too high 44 Lambda probe/injection signal – Mixture to lean 45 Larnbda probe/injection signate – Mixture to fat 46 Air pump/relay – Voltage too low 47 Air pump/relay – Voltage too high 48 Supply voltage – low 49 Supply voltage – high 51 ECU – Error in storage ( PROM) 52 motor failure warning light – voltage too high 53 fuel pump relays – voltage too low 54 fuel pump relays – voltage too high 55 control unit 56 idle control valve – voltage too high 57 idle control valve – voltage too low 59 intake air switching magnetic valve 1- voltage too high 61 activated carbon filter magnetic valve – voltage too low 62 activated carbon filter magnetic valve – voltage to h ch 63 intake air switching magnetic valve 1- voltage too high 65 mixture regulationresistant d – Voltage too low 66 Mixing control resistance – Voltage too high 67 Throttle switch 68 Idle switch – does not open 69 Intake air temperature sensor – Voltage too low 71 Intake air temperature sensor – Voltage too high 72 Throttle switch – does not open 73 Air volume/air mass meter – Voltage too low 74 Air volume/air mass meter – Voltage too high 75 Torque control (automatic gearbox) – Voltage too low 76 Torque control (automatic gearbox) – incorrect 79 Drive-in control control unit – motor intervention incorrect 81 Injection valve No. 1 – voltage too low 82 Injection valve No. 2 – voltage too low 83 Injection valve No. 3 – voltage too low 84 Injection valve No. 4 – voltage too low 85 Injection valve No. 5 – voltage too low 86 Injection valve No. 6 – voltage too low 87 Air-conditioning shut-off relay – voltage too low 88 Air-conditioning shut-off relay – voltage too high 89 Lambda probe – voltage too low 91 Lambda probe – Voltage too high 92 camshaft position sensor – wrong signal 93 camshaft position sensor – voltage too low 94 camshaft position sensor – voltage too high 95 warm start valve – voltage too low 96 warm start valve – voltage too high 97 drive slip control controller – wrong signal 98 Lambda probe – voltage too low 113 charging pressure control – charging pressure too high 114 charging pressure idle – over maximum value 115 turbocharger full load – below minimum value 116 charging pressure – above maximum load rt 117 Charge pressure control valve – voltage too low 118 Charge pressure control valve – voltage too high 119 Suction tube pressure sensor – range/power 121 Lambda probe 2 – mixture to mager 122 Lambda probe 2 – mixture to bold 123 Intake air switching magnetic valve 1-blocked 124 Intake air switching magnetic valve 2- blocks 125 Suction tube pressure sensor – below minimum 126 Suction tube pressure sensor – above maximum 129 Exhaust gas recirculation – voltage too low 131 Exhaust gas recirculation – voltage too high 132 Exhaust gas recirculation discharge – false signal 133 exhaust gas recirculation 2- voltage too high 133 intake air recirculation-magnet valve 2- voltage too low 134 exhaust gas recirculation 2- voltage too low 134 intake air recirculation-magnet valve 2- voltage too high 135 engine failure warning light – voltage too low 136 ECU 137 ECU box – temperature too high 138 suction tube pressure sensor – voltage too low 139 suction tube pressure sensor – voltage too high 143 immobilizer – no/wrong signal 144 immobilizer – no Sig nal 145 immobiliser – wrong signal

I’m just getting familiar with the A14NE(L,T) motors. More precisely, crankcase ventilation, charging pressure control and connecting lines. If I see this correctly, the charging pressure control valve sits under the suction bridge on the channel to the first cylinder. From this, a hose goes forward to the control box on the turbocharger, the other two connections must therefore be connected to the athmosphere pressure and charging pressure. In addition, there are two pressure sensors in the intake bridge, one of which (if I understand correctly) measures the athmosphere pressure. From this I conclude that there is a separate chamber in the intake bridge, which is only impacted with athmosphere pressure. Is this correct? Is there next to the fungus valve in the intake bridge and the diaphragm valve in the valve cover other valves that are involved in the crankcase ventilation? g works when underpressure in the crankcase prevails. If underpressure in the intake tube prevails (empty run = throttle flap closed and no charging pressure) the diaphragm valve in the valve cover closes in order to limit the underpressure in the crankcase. How is the crankcase ventilated then? The underpressure must finally be dismantled. Actually, I would expect an additional non-return valve, which in this case opens and leaves air from the athmosphere into the crankcase (intake point sense). fully between LMM and turbocharger).