Category: Opel Motors Forum

D-Space: in fact, some motor might be funny Cramp: that’s just how it will be D-Space: u/min are measured at a crankshaft or ? Cramp: ya think i ma D-Space: then think about D-Space: let’s say D-Space at 2l of space (a zyl 500ccm) D-Space: let’s say 4000 u/min Cramp: ya? D-Space: give 2 combustion processes per turn (4-stroke motor with 4 cyl.) D-Space: or ? D-Space: with half turn makes yeder zyl nen verschieden tact D-Space: i.e. 2 combustion cycles i 1 revolution Cramp: ya what would you like to tell me? D-Space: i.e. D-Space: at 4000 u/min gibs per minute (!!) 8000 combustion processes Cramp: hm can be Cramp: think ma an nen f1 motor D-Space: the opitmal petrol-air mixing ratio is 1:14,6 we say for the better 1:15 D-Space: so if n whole 500ccm zyl is to become full with 1 part gasoline and 15 parts air D-Space: then this makes already 31,25 ccm or ml benzin Cramp: at 4k u/min or at one? at 4k or? D-Space: and se lbst if only 1 drip (1ml) is injected with 15 ml air D-Space: at one! D-Space: then this is already 8l gasoline per minute Cramp: ya wool Cramp: well calculated! D-Space: I thought about it all evening D-Space: I don’t get a mistake Cramp: check out the injection quantities D-Space: my pull in the standgas ~1,5l / std D-Space: +t D-Space: hab ya under 13 km/h display in l/h D-Space: that’s 25ml per minute Cramp: well, think about what this is for use D-Space: standing gas 1000 round D-Space: 2000 incinerators D-Space: makes 0.0125 ml gasoline per injection D-Space: but would also be called the n 500cc cylinder in an intake-clock only 0.1875 ml air sucks D-Space: i.e. the 500cc cylinder is mixed filled with 2ml benzin-air Cramp: can be!!! Cramp: is ya finely atomized D-Space: ne stop 0.2 ml D-Space: is 1/1000 filled by the cylinder with something combustible Cramp: hm naja…ne D-Space: hm somehow nevertheless Cramp: wen D-Space: but it’s not more Cramp: it’s going to come, the piston goes up and then it’s starting to ignite… D-Space: ok, maybe it’s going to be like that the more air sucks up so it’s almost full and then only the gasoline just burns with only 0.2ml of air Cramp: hm… Cramp: s was from vw ma sone site where everything was described (even with animat) D-Space: but even then I can’t imagine that when we say 6000 round (= 1.2ml benzin per round) e.g. i nem honda s2000 we say 200 hp to put on Cramp: ka the injection possibly more a D-Space: mean ? Cramp: ya think i ma D-Space: gugg ma 1ml gasoline per round would be ~0,375 liter per minute Cramp: motor with more ps usually needs more sprit D-Space: at 6000 u/min … what do you think about it ?

HI, have nn GSI 16V, which flaps a bit. When I bought it with 154,000 was probably no special oil in it (predecessor was probably a heather, is champion at Opel but not cared for the car ) especially since I do not know if the mileage power is right, because my predecessor should have driven around with a analogue tacho ( first experienced later ). Since the engine clacked and I wanted to do him something good, I put Costrol 0W40 in it. With that he had a good fuel consumption, approved s But I got 1 l of oil on 1000 km and clapped more and more extreme. At 169,000 (this April, summer vehicle ) now brand new Hydotschall came in ( + again new oil Castrol Formula RS 0W40 – the oil also had the engine quite cleaned ) and it became considerably quieter, but it was not completely away either. After about 700 km it became again increasingly louder, so after another 300 km I had had enough and 15W40 got inside. This made it a little quieter again. After 7000 km new 15W4 0 pure, a little quieter again. Now ( 180,000 km ) he has remained on a stand ( volume ) and I wonder if the new bumps might have got rid of a Macke again by the thin oil (maybe he is also not much louder than directly after the change, but something I think ) . But is quieter than before and I can live with the sounds – become with warm engine also quieter and the engine goes really animaly. Then I am now dr because my engine didn’t notice the full-synthetic 0W40, so the fully synthetic 10W60 doesn’t necessarily like it either, or ? Besides, it doesn’t just depend on the viscosity, but also on the API classes or ? 0 W or 5 W are funny or ? And 40 in the back has my 15 W 40 as well as a 5W40 or 0w40 or 10W40. The 60 in the 10W60 only need very bad heaters or ? And with the API classes that I’ve been told to specify the quality reached my now oil Castrol GTX 3 15W40 with SJ not quite the 0W40, but comes already close and exceeds the required SF or SG (oil cover ) by far. But why do you read partly in forums that Opel would have prescribed a partial synthetic for this engine? I think that I can get away better with a very good 15W40. Do you have experiences on the topic ? mfg gsi-man

hello, what loses an engine on PS when the 200000 Km has run ? you can of course not say on the basis of a faus formula, because it always has to do with how the engine was treated, but so about ? have a C20XE with 206000 Km thank you !!!!

Moinsen, some time ago I mentioned that there are obviously 2 different vents on the C20NE. Since I wanted to ask more about a new thread (with new questions ). In the appendix you will find a picture of my built-in housing ventilation (C20NE Vectra A, Built. ’91) and the valve cover, which I now have here (Astra F GSi, Built. ?) My question… the second valve cover from the GSi looks much more useful for me, since only the first venting looks much better for me. I’d like to change my head on the outdated GSi head with its valve cover. Where would the additional ventilation theoretically go, and to what extent could I convert the existing ventilation to the thicker & additional ones? What do I need for parts? I’m grateful for all tips & tricks. Greetings, qp

What does it actually do and what is it to think of the 15,- Euro offered at ebay of “tuning-exe”? The ratings speak for themselves, but do people imagine that or what is going on? Here’s the link.

And another question… I made timing belts with my car (C20NE). I found out that the camshaft wheel was a gear direction early. If you set the ignition to early, the engine should be bitten in part. But how is this when the whole camshaft including the ignition distributor is moved towards early? Has there been any experience???

Perhaps someone knows advice: opel atra g 1,6 16v bj. 98 cars is consistently checked book maintained. is always driven with brand sprite (super) on the highway sudden performance loss at approx. 180km/h, right approach, engine tuckers on three cylinders but runs. to atu, no compression on the 3rd cylinder at approx. 114tkm, valve burned, outlet valve, 3rd cylinder new tooth strap, water pump, tension roller (was almost due in turn), valves, cylinder head seal and new ignition candles on the road autobahn sudden loss of performance at approx. 180km/h, right approach, engine tuckers on three cylinders but runs. to atu, no compression on the 2nd cylinder at approx. 118tkm, valve burned off, outlet valve, 2nd cylinder does not tolerate higher speed or speeds from a certain running power? problems with continuous load etc.?

Hi, I have the problem with my 1.2l A Corsa (93er Bj, would have to be C12NZ) that the mill, as soon as it gets warm hardly still runs! You can hardly give any more gas, because as soon as you give more gas, it runs completely unround, has false ignitions and therefore hardly takes on gas! When starting it therefore also usually goes out! Full speed is not possible, then the car totally bucks! (except if you have brought it with quite little gas slowly to higher speed!) spark plugs, cables, distribution cap and -finger ha The problem occurs both in case of wetness and dryness! I suspect that it will probably be a temperature sensor or something on the basis of the symptoms, but I don’t have a plan what it could be exactly! Would be great if someone knew what it might be here!

Hi , I’m just about to overtake my C20xe , I already have new cylinder head gasket , opening and exhaust manifold gasket , new tensioner + pulley , timing belts and V-belts built in . What would you change ? I just heard that if you should change the timing belt also immediately the water pump should change with , what do you mean ? Have also problems when tensioning the timing belt , how should this work ? Thanks for your tips . Greetings of the Nixchecker

Hi! As far as I know, you should avoid high to very high speeds as long as the engine is still cold. Only, when is the engine “warm”? Only if the temperature indicator indicates ~90°C or earlier? Would I be interested, because I have only a very short way to the highway and therefore would like to know if I have to be careful…