Category: Opel Motors Forum

I’m about to google like a stupid one, but there’s somehow no decent table to the machine, I’m looking for things like stroke, drilling, engine identification letters, exact engine capacity etc. Thanks, Grüße Lon EDIT: Title changed to 24V, had missed me.

I would like to tickle out a little more power from my Z18XE 1.8 with 90KW/ 122PS soon. There is a turbo conversion or a Dbilas suction tube with filter box, camshafts and electronics adaptation. The turbo conversion at Dbilas falls flat, because simply far too expensive. Who has already done tuning – experience with this engine? How much hp are in the turbo conversion? But the most important thing is also that the engine takes part for a long time. Do you remember the Dbilas tuning at all? What does everything have to be changed? Exhaust and brake are clear to me… What else? What would you do? Turbo or Dbilas?

hello, have a problem which I have already posted in the Astras g forum, but need extensive answers to the problem. so before unfurling 6 weeks, I made a service at the Astra g of my sister (parts of steel pit), i.e. oil change, timing belts etc. whole 2 weeks after that, she started the car in the morning which went out again shortly afterwards, , , , ,, cause: the oil pump has got stuck and is broken. I completely repaired the engine and resealed it (oil pump with new oil and filter, cylinder head gasket, oil tank sealed etc.) I then drove 4 weeks by car, and could not detect any problems. 4 days ago my sister drove to Dresden and back, while her engine literally flew around the ears,, having picked up the car yesterday. at the Astra are 2 holes in the engine of one in the oil tank and one in the block,,, a cylinder has said goodbye and has migrated outside, the storage shell from the pleuel is burned. the oil pu mpe has promoted to the last, and all other cylinders are iin ordung. what can have caused this, this thing gives me a rattle. gives opel eventuel kulanz to the motor? vehicle is an astra g with a z16se motor. year of construction 2003. engine has 84ps thanks already in advance. mfg olli.

Moin, ride a c20xe in an ASCONA C, but not on the road, but on stubble field races.Last year he was pushed together in a draw, and had to build a new rear.Now he has also become heavier and also not so lively.So the Golf 16v is faster. Engine is so far original, have only n red Riding Hood on it, lighter flywheel. Does a many times n have some advice? What about sharp camshafts ? valve springs ? Cossi head ? And where or who would have what? Thanks first of all greeting Temple13

Hello everyone, I don’t know any more. I tortured the search function like crazy, but unfortunately only with moderate success. to my problem: Drive a c20xe in Corsa B, took it from his rest about 6 weeks ago (there are 1.5 years away) and my empty run spins totally. When it’s cold it goes out almost without gas, when it’s warm stands the empty speed between 1500 and 1700 rpm. so now everyone will say clean and check empty run, I’ve already done, is blitzblank clean and the slider runs very easily, when creating 12 volts it also makes sure to open and close again. Bypass hose removed from the cylinder head cover and the connection to the throttle flap, runs through again nice air, cold start problem became slightly better… at least some white now slowly not much further, which I have the presumption that the empty controller is not defective, moves indeed very gur under tension. Would you like to install another but the dinger are so fucking expensive. Please help me, need urgently soon the asu and with such a leep speed I can bend thanks

Dear M T friends, I bought a used Grandland last week (1,2, 130 HP BJ 12/2022, 9800 km . Now my question: with the predecessor , Meriva B I had to add an LM direct injection cleaner to the petrol every year, but now a timing belt in the oil (no control chain) runs at Grandland. Do you have any residue of the cleaner into the oil and can damage the ZR? Or the dissolved residues? Unfortunately, find the report where the engines were described, where this Zus In the case of other engines, the additional engine damage can be caused. Do I have such an “other” engine? My, I have an F12-xxx engine. Or should I absolutely wait with the addition until after the warranty? In the Meriva this was prescribed, at the Grandland I read nothing of it.. Ok, completely different engines, PSA miracles.. but unfortunately there was no other engine in the Grandland with any other engine, or just electric, but it stands on petrol dampers^^ oh, and still a question, kills the oil hlammflussung the timing belt,? I read horror stories and would like to keep my engine still n bitl^^.. Or just a premium sprite (Ultimax etc?) and your fingers away from additives? Thank you for your opinions:

Hello together. Our Zafira C is in pain again. He makes the noise / flapping in the stand. I don’t think it sounds good at all and I’m still worried. If I (is an automatic geriebe) with standing gas stays that, I give a little more gas it goes away basically. In the stand I also have the feeling that it swallows itself for a short time. Do you have any idea what this can be? Have just read something about loose chain tensioners / sliding rails. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/djselSN0C8o

Hello dear suffering afflicted with the throttle problem of the Z16XEP engine. I came across a Russian side during my research where the problem is described. No new flange has to be installed if the wear of the mechanism has not progressed too far! Basically: The poti to the throttle sends to the motor control unit the respective position of the throttles. The working area is between 0.1 volts and 4.9 volts. If the mechanism is now concealed, If these values are outside of this range and the MSG stores the error that the poti is defective. If you now have a readout device and can access the parameters of the MSG, you can read out the reported values. Now you move the checkers manually and read out the values. 3 solution approaches: (under this link you can see the appropriate images: http://www.autopro.spb.ru/showrem.afp?remedy=15) Approach 1: The end stop of the checkers is located at the Röhrch The screw which fixes the poti(picture1). If one installs either a thicker tube here or makes this tube “dicker” with other means, one changes the final stop of the flaps in the necessary direction. Approach 2: Take the pipe between air filter and the suction flange. Below it is the vacuum box that controls the mechanism(picture2). This vacuum box is fixed with 2 screws. The front is slightly shorter the rear screw is the lä Now the shorter screw is released and the longer one is removed only. Now you have the possibility to move the vacuum box around the axis of the longer screw and to move the mechanism into the desired position and thereby change the end stop. After correct alignment you tighten the longer screw again. The shorter one no longer fits into the guide, which is no longer bad, because the longer one is fixed enough. I have not yet tested these approaches. But I wanted to give you the opportunity to try them out and possibly solve the problem yourself! Good luck! All information without guarantee!

hallo.have planned the head of the c20ne around 9/10tel, valves are regrinded, valve guides are shortened 5mm and the valve shaft seals are renewed.For good closure rub back on. now the problem: the engine runs shit.runs like estimated 70ps, squirts at full gas giving blue and stutters only quite reluctantly high. from 5000 tours like a speed limiter and at full load a ringing (despite super plus).have checked compression (13 bar), petrol pressure measured, ignition coil exchanged, plugs geta It could be that a valve shaft seal does not fit properly and it pulls so much oil that it can no longer run properly,there are also people who drive for better lubrication without vs seals.I don’t know any advice anymore…

I already have a quite strong software chip tuning, but I think that I can get even more out of it by using a larger LLK. But that doesn’t offer the chip tuning company from then, but another company. They thought that the software had to be adapted to the larger LLK so that it could be fully exhausted. My problem now is that I want to throw my existing chip tuning, which was not cheap either, just for a new chip tuning overboard. Pays s the LLK without the software adaptation at all? Or does this even have negative effects? Thank you!