Category: Opel Motors Forum

Hello, yesterday I had a Zafira 2.0 DTI in front of me on the highway and on the highway. Every time it accelerated, a black smoke cloud came out of the exhaust. I have seen this for the first time now on an Opel vehicle. With Audi, VW and BMW and the C-Class of Mercedes, I have noticed this quite often (unpleasantly), by Ford (Sierra 2.0 D GLX or similar) not to mention. With every acceleration process (especially if obviously was switched back) there is a s tinking smoke cloud! This is certainly not beneficial for the engine, nor environmentally friendly or economical ?? mfg. bauto

Hi guys! I want to buy a new Corsa C! But don’t know which engine to use, on the one hand 20hp is more great and he has a better saying on the other hand I am a clicker! Which engine should I use? Has anyone had any experience with the engines? maxeee

The sound is relatively quiet, but I’ve heard it now and I’ve noticed it again and again. It’s, as I said, irregular and independent of the engine temperature. On some days it doesn’t even occur. Now I hope that either something will work or an oil change could remedy it before it is actually the engine bearings. Stock would be anyway. ltsam… there is always enough oil in it, it is always warmed up… well. Anyway, on several pages I have already read the clear recommendation for 10W60 oil from Castrol for the C20NE and C20XE, moreover it was already suggested to me by friends. In the last instance, however, I would be interested in your opinion – is the oil really useful? Greetings, qp

Good day, everybody! I finally dared to change the camshaft adjusters with my Z18XER (92tkm on top).All this in a garage, without lift, without motor bridge, but with a small suitcase tool from Ebay, around about 35€ (camshaftlineal, NW locking, flywheel blocking, V-belt tensioner jars were important, the others I did not use).The problem was the cold start clapping, which became increasingly longer and louder. the Opel field assistance (I don’t know anymore number), inside it says that the NW wheels have to be replaced, because the tolerances did not fit with the old ones. From (end?) 2007 the improved adjusters were installed. Of course, there is no culant for 8 years old cars etc., therefore an exchange costs 700-1000€, depending on the FOH…. here it is recommended to have the timing belt set renewed immediately, since the anyway has to make the thing of course still costspi eliger. Now I’ve been looking for a guide for almost a year without success, to change the adjusters…the control valves replaced with me unfortunately did not do anything, also oiling on a in hot condition 0W40 instead of a 5W30 (so that the adjusters do not run so easily, switch off after the engine) was useless. So I ordered the necessary parts on the Internet. There is only one manufacturer, namely INA/Schäffler (Ruville should be only a trade mark, manufactured The numbers would be 427 1004 10 for the inlet NW…….427 1005 10 for the outlet NW……and 2x 205805 for the also modified control valves, if you want to change them. I recommend it already, since with the old valves the sieves can detach….or you just remove them, with a screwdriver. These parts fit for Z/A16XER and Z/A18XER. Here now, as I have done: -lift wagons, secure with wooden beams -Remove wheel at the front right, Destroy spray protection below/side V-belts (4 small torx screws) filter box, open screw clamp at the throttle flap with 7 fork key, cover the opening with a rag so that nothing falls in, clip off LMM plugs, also clip off pressure sensor climate and put cables behind the motor so that it is not in the way – tension belt tensioner with 19 ring wrench, secure with the locking pin, remove belts, mark direction, otherwise there will be üb Average wear……Screw out the belt tensioner with 14 outer torx nut -Upper timing belt cover Screws out and remove (2x 10 outer torx) -Put off the eyewitness module, unscrew (inner torx screws, I don’t know the size), remove spark plugs (16 spark plug closures) so that you can turn the engine into the different positions more easily afterwards. f OT-place (18 outer torx), marking of the lower timing belt cover must degrade curvature torque support (3×18 outer torx + 19 nut) with marking on the belt wheel (16 nut + 16 outer torx, see FOTO) -When crankshaft (following KW) is blocked on the flywheel, V-belt wheel decompose with 18 outer torx (damn hard to open), then turn the screw again hand-resistant -motor With wooden beams, it is best to build something soft, damping (composed bath towel etc) in order not to damage the oil pan….the engine rests on it after removing the motor holder, therefore it should hardly fall down. In case of need, rather lower the whole car a little, because otherwise when assembling the screw holes, when the engine falls too far -Screw off all the driver’s side motor holders (6x 14 outer torx, 2x 16er hexagon screw, 1x 16er nut) – Lower (4x 10er outer torx) and medium timing belt cover (only plugged) remove -Zahntriebel is now completely visible, now the two-part NW-wheel locking PASSING in, see FOTO. As you put it in, it must also look again when assembled. The marking of the left adjuster lies a bit above, which of the right adjuster should curse exactly, but was not possible with me, I guess, because cheap tool. If you look closely , it can be seen that the marking of the right adjuster cannot be cursed with the stroke on the tool, because the teeth are completely offset. -Clamping roller of the timing belt, possibly secure with the locking pin. Didn’t happen to me, because the corresponding hole was not present….with my original clamping roller on the other hand. Then remove the straps, if it is to be reused, then mark the running direction. Is a T50 inner torx. I have also used the blue Loctite, we also like to use it in the work. -Now remove the cylinder head hood, are some 10 or 12 outer torx screws. To do this, cable lines have to be lifted from the holders all around. – Insert camshafts linearly into the slots at the camshaft ends, pinches something, needs f You will also have to rotate slightly on the 24s hexagon of the camshafts. For this I had to grind my fork key a little bit, because it is quite tight. (FOTO) -Reassemble the wheel blocker, place KW to 60° before OT. I was informed, probably so that the pistons are all as far away from the valves as possible (if you should slip off with the 24s key, the ruler also slips out, then the NW can turn and a piston crash The two T55 Torx screws open, it cracks short, does not scare. Go out incredibly hard. The helper has to look very well, that the NW stays in position, and is not burdened on torsion. Then the adjusters can be easily removed, the black sleeve has to be put out -the new adjusters stick on it, the sides do not swap, and the supplied screws can be turned in hand-resistant so that you can turn something else. -Now put the NW-wheel blocking tool back in again, that the markings fit again, must look the same as before. Then tighten the screws again with 50 Nm + 150° + 15°… and keep it right again! -The closure screw with new sealing rings and pull with 30 NM again. Keeps with me with the old rubbers but also again close NW-Lineal remove -The KW in motor turning direction turn again on OT, tool out before – lay on timing belts again, take care of the running direction, if the old one is taken again…. Let the clamping roller relax -Now rotate by 72° at the KW, whether all markings match again and the NW-Räder blocking tool can be inserted again, If yes, then you can remove it and clear it, it is no longer needed -All timing belt covers again and tighten with 6 Nm – install vibration wheel blocking, place the belt wheel on the KW and tighten with new screw 95 NM + 45° + 15°, then block out again and tighten the motor gear connection screw again -Built the passenger side motor holder completely, unfortunately have no torques for it…. Depending on how hard they have risen -Reinstall torque support, tighten all screws with 45 Nm -Apply the belt tensioner with 50 NM, use new screw -Apply belt (see direction of operation) and unlock locking -Insert spark plugs, tighten with 25 Nm -Insert valve lid new seal, tighten with 8 Nm -Insert and plug in eye module, tighten with 8 Nm, insert all cable guides -Insert filter box, screw clamp with feeling before, infect LMM, air pressure sensor also, air intake pipe to the filter box cleanly put on it, so that it does not draw warm air – spray protection wheel box/bar area reassembly – trial trip -Evtl still look after whether everything is dense, in the area of the NW wheels I then still on the highway to test the maximum speed. 218/219 on the speedometer, he apparently has done his full performance, so nothing can have done wrong….and he clattered today auc h no longer improves me, if there is still an important hint missing! Pictures still come! Exchange control valves: Are only attached to the engine with an outer torx screw at the front and back. turn out, pull out the old valve with slight rotation movements (Evtl with water pump pliers), plug in new valve, oil in a little bit before sealing rings, tighten with 6 Nm, plug in, done.

I have a general question about my cylinder head screws on the X16XEL; the following screws are installed: M10 x 1.25 x 153 mm, continuous thread and strength class 10.9 i.e. yield limit rp0.2 at 900 MPa and tensile strength at 1000 MPa. Can anyone explain why the screws are to be replaced after disassembly? So far no one could explain it so correctly. (at FOH cost the 10 screws 67€ – I call it rip off…) here for clarification: (of course clearly cheaper)http ://www.ebay.de/…/40268503201

After a loud noise in the engine compartment (sounded as if I had switched off) the engine went out. After checking the timing belt (was healing) and the camshaft, I tried to get started. It also sounded as if he was coming back (starter turned), but at the decisive moment nothing happened. I called the ADAC, but the good man gave up after about 20 minutes. He continued to work. He finally dragged me to the next Opel workshop. The first diagnosis was: 4 tilting levers broken. Next they wanted to take the cylinder head down. I asked that you check the settings of the tooth belt beforehand. The next diagnosis was: timing belt settings okay, valves not damaged (just), 4 piston eaters, 2 piston rings broken and damage to the belt. On the question of the cause, I could not be informed. Just one guess: Diesel pump defective – too much injected – valve did not open – tipping lever broken. Wouldn’t the engine have had to turn up before the exit? I have doubts that the damage is directly related after I have heard that with a colleague (same machine) also 2 tipping levers would have said goodbye. Is this age weakness? Who knows each other with this M otor out? The repair costs are high, a replacement engine is too expensive, a used complete replacement engine (e.g. from an accident car) I could not find so far. Who has a complete engine with diesel pump and turbocharger lying or can tell me where I can get one?

Hello, How to get more power/torque into my engine? Have already got a K&N air filter in it, Brisk tuning ignition plugs and a sports exhaust system from Kat von Bastuck on it. Brings about 20 hp. Just think if I don’t get a chip, camshaft and a Power Bost valve. Maybe I’ll also have the displacement increase you know someone who does all this (cost-effective, with guarantee) you have experiences with it. Would my vehicle also like to use a Do you know any addresses in the vicinity of Frankenthal and Mannheim? My vehicle (purchased recently) Opel Omega B Caravan 2.0 16V 100kW/136Ps Year of manufacture: 1/99 Edition 100 Tyres 225/55 R16 94H

can you connect to a normal pc the control unit there is any software (scnetting point cable) I can read and burn pretty much all eproms and eeproms but would like to start with a complete control unit because I am not yet fit with the control technology in the kfz range or do you know someone who has already dealt with it or dealt with it earlier ?? happy about every contribution no matter in which form MFG tino1905

Hi guys, since I want to miss my astra more “clean” soon, I want to get the best engine that there is, 2,0 16V. now my question, since I still have a few ideas to do what I don’t want to get an outdated one but do it myself. therefore: what does the sealing set cost??? the storage set?? and what do I have to pay special attention to? so the possibilities for abeun I have this is no problem, but up to now I have more of boxers and less of row motors ==References==

Hi! I’ve seen some vehicles lately (not especially Opel with large engine capacity. What surprised me was that some of the engine capacity was 3.0l, sometimes even 4.0l or even more, but the maximum power was dumping at values between 120 and 150 hp, last seen with a thread about off-road vehicles here in the forum. Now I ask what a sense such a large engine capacity has for such a maximum power. Hey!? Or is this supposed to reduce the mechanical load on the engine? Help me on the jumps. Greetings