Category: Opel Motors Forum

A friendly hello in the round, I want the following problem signs. My Sintra, bj 99,100,000 Km run, first hand jumps on strike, but runs the first minutes like rough, shakes as if it runs only on 3 cylinders a lay. I did the following. Forshipment pump tank new, ESP (orig Opel) new, injectors both steps pressed off and regenerated (new inserts), traverse seals new, leak oil lines new, tank cover (tank ventilation) new, compression gep Now the ideas run out. because I feel like the engine is completely shaking (is equal to all 4 cylinders) I think in the direction of undersupply of the cylinder filling in the cold run and/or the subject of air which is often posted here after the engine is switched off in the system. According to Tech2 data list all values in the target, no FC. If warm, then completely round motor run, depends on the gas torsion and pull-through. Question: the factory new pump comes from the x20dth according to part number. According to Bosch k a problem. Does anyone have data sheets of pump x22dth and x20dth???? Does the pump know through the SG on the pump, which it belongs to x20dth or x22dth, or is it determined by the motor control unit. I am happy about every thought approach, even so far-fetched. Greetings from MV

Moin people have a problem Hab n Manta B with a 2.0i i200 CIH engine was drilled to 2.2 and completely reworked So my problem is really mysterious and only recently 1. engine Cold all oK speed at 1,300 rpm 2. engine Warm also everything OK speed at about 800-950 rpm because of the camshaft but now comes I drive a distance of about 10 km constant a speed e.g. highway 100 kmh then I have when I leave a very funny problem namely as follows The motord Rehzahl fluctuates for about 5 min from 800U/min to 2,500 U/min back and forth in the same cycle After 5 min is then against good and he slowly commutes back to 800-950 U/min. Hope you can help me something spins thanks already in advance in greeting chris

Hello first of all Hab a while ago a motor with gearbox of a C-Kadetts automatic rescued from the scrap. Since then he stands with me in the hall and waits for a project. At the last passage over the scrap yard I noticed then a quite large wheel of a wheel loader and I came to the thought of building a “reverse trike”. So this sow heavy wheel invited and took away. The from the scrap yard now think I am crazy but further. The main problem is of course this wheel The easiest thing would certainly be a chain drive or I thought of two chains. One left and one right. So I don’t have to lock the differential and share the forces on both sides. So and now to my question: Do the shaft outputs of the gearbox or the diff hold out the pulling forces of the chains? Or maybe someone knows how the ones are stored. An explosion drawing would also help. I Googled the half day, but the question is right. That’s special.

Hello together, my coupe has converted from 1.8 to 2 liter turbo and so far has driven almost 2 tkm. The engine has been running worse and worse over the period, troubleshooting has resulted in an oxidized mass connection of the strand from the LMM and coolant temperature sensor. On the wire harness an additional mass was attached to this strand by the previous owner. In the schematic, however, this is not available. I also removed it accordingly and completed a test drive which after 700 meters with impact-like a Now to the actual problem: the engine can no longer be started (starter rotates naturally), on the MID there is a current speed of 12 km/h although the car is standing, current consumption and speed are also displayed. On the instrument cluster nothing is shown (speed and speed) there only the engine service and engine error indicator flashes extremely fast (flakes 10 times the second). measured, as far as I.O.. Second control unit tested with the same result. Backups also controlled all. I’m a little helpless, maybe someone has an idea why the control unit thinks the engine is running although it is not running. Also don’t have access to the engine control unit with OP-Com.

Hello, a question to the experts at Opel, with the LUJ engines very often loosen the screws from the upper control chains sliding rail, is there actually a special instruction from Opel that the screws have to be used with screw securing? If this has loosened, would you use a new sliding rail and screws for safety? Greeting André

Hello, my Zafira B regularly forms an oil film at the oil tank, and on the left if you stand in front of the engine. it has to come somehow from above, because in the area marked on the photo it is also oily. Can the seal be leaking to the water pump? Or where else can the oil come from? Would you like to start no suspicious repairs, but first know where the oil comes from. Does anyone have any idea how to find out? Greetings Axelino

Hello, I have a Coupe model year 2004 and have taken over from an Astra G OPC2 (unfortunately too rotten to save) the engine with mechanics. In the OPC2 the Z20LEH engine with LET wire harness was already installed. The OPC2 is model year 2003 with cable harness B6D and in the interior full equipment (air conditioning automatic, xenon…) . As said motor compartment and motor harness was taken over up to the X2 plug. My Coupe has no climate automatic and no rain sensor, halogen headlight etc. I also took over nrücklaufleitung with pump ( original was a Y piece on the fuel filter which I put blind and moved the return line forward from there). During the first start attempt he unfortunately did not jump on, engine turned but did not jump on. I then read that the immobiliser at model year 2001+2 may not be wired properly, then I transferred a throw line from the control unit A17 (“Ringantenne” Pin 2 to the MSG PIN 13 with the same negative has someone an idea that might not be right? I’m at the moment baffled and a bit overburdened. I’d be happy to help you in RLP on site.

Hello, I asked you a question. I’ve seen engines on ebay before, for example, which are “overhauled” and then should have again 0 km. What is everything done there? So, that they have 0 km again? Think, that makes the engine repairer. What does it cost about?

Hello guys. I’m new here. So I have the following problem. Have built my Vectra A from 2.0 8V to 2.0 16V. It also goes on but runs quite unevenly in the empty run. Has also too high empty speed. It seems to me that the too much fuel gets. In the garage it aligns worst to fuel. Is cleaned lamda replace LMM, changed thermostat. So I’m fast off. I’m at the end with my Latin. Can you help me here??

Hello dear community, I built the car from my parents the 2nd time again together because this oil had lost. Well, I did not take care this time exactly that the first piston is in the OT. At the time we heard something whirring on. The camshafts stand when the crankshaft stands on OT at about 3 pm (so point to the right), but should actually stand at 12 o’clock (so point up). My diagnosis is that the engine is now actually a totally I don’t know. My question now is whether the valves have really opened and if so whether the pistons have to be new or if they are still healing. We only ran the engine 2-3 turns, but immediately switched off. Can this really be the end that we can throw the engine away or can it be possible that only the valves would have to be damaged, but I once heard the Opel Mootors should be valve impact-proof. are defective and it is enough that I only have to renew these so that I do not have to change pistons. I am already looking forward to your answer and hope that I have taken the right area here and do not open this thread in a false one. MfG Frostfury edit: It is an Opel Omega 2.0 liter 16V