Category: Opel Motors Forum

(the thread is already under Calibra but nobody had an idea yet, so I’m just trying it here) Well yesterday evening we talked to some acquaintances in the round and the topic was the following, now that my Cali slowly gets into the old age I want to convert next year to LET-technique called Turbo, and to him a nice retirement as a fun car on which he likes to mature with season marks in peace Now the stone of the wise again lies in the deatail, such a ie pleaded for a Z20LET because is more modern, others in turn a c20let or even as an alternative a turbo kit for an X20XEv ,zb of dybilas which is given there with 260hp…. because yesterday that was the impetus in a sense, a 3er 318is (had actually only 140 ps) Compact on the role experienced the delivered with a Lotec turbo kit now 222hp and 296NM Dremoment , so seems to be quite promising …. however, the BMW Maschi keep even in the “serial state” no modifications to the engine itself, fortunately with such a kit, which drive with approx.0,48bar…. what does this look like at Opel actually? Even more convincing I found then a 325i (actually 193hp) which supplied with compressor kit (also 0.48bar) 306 hp but how is that at Opel, what do you think is promising…… what would you do if…mfg

Servus to everyone, just wanted to share my experiences here. I tried a Claibra V6 this week in the original condition. And now I’m in the V6 fever. I myself have been driving an A-Vecci 2l 16V Eco for 2 years. The best was definitely the sound. Ok the exhaust was broken. But he didn’t sound broken or clattered, but was just loud and horny. He didn’t surprise me in terms of performance. My Vectra pulls almost as well. r Previous owner was a woman and he might have been a bit lame. I will not buy this Calibra. Coupling is at the end. Lots of rust on the thresholdrs. Will save the next time and drive my Vectra on. As soon as I see the right Cali, I will hit you. Now to you. Whether Calibra or Vectra A/B. Have you had similar experiences? Or maybe you are already building up your V6? What are you changing on the engine and coach? Just write everything in here… Greeting Matze

Hello has a clue, have me a C20NE processed channels on 40mm valve seats to outside. Compression raised to 10.5 SEH camshaft, adjustable cam wheel, fan manifold, 24V Kat with 57mm passage group N system. Eprom adapted. now to the problem; I let the cam run a little ahead( wanted to lose power and responsiveness from below) engine runs well, now also turns willingly up to 6800/Umin, at my age I turn but not there, have at 6500 good connection. w I start with high outdoor counters in the city traffic uphill e.g. ringing for a fraction of a second. so my thinking; the engine has an OT dealer. the rest of the ignition characteristic is stored in the Eprom, distributor is rigid. because I run the camshaft earlier. so in the direction of a clock. away from the make-up. is the runner in the cap yes also earlier. if I put the cam in the direction of the original the runner is later on the first Zylind he and the spark. or am I completely on the wooden way.??? if someone can think in and give me advice please answer. I thank you in advance. gr. poorin Possmann

Since I have my C20NE in the Corsa there are a few problems. Even though: 1. What can it be that my NE is already operating hot after 2KM driving ? Already shortly after starting the fan radiates extremely heat. Have then 95° operating temperature which can also be held. In the stand it goes up to 100° until the fan goes on. Thermostat is 100% in order because the cooler is bang “hot”. 2. He dies as soon as I have driven longer sometimes in idle mode and is then only with gas 3. Now I hear a strong knock on the area of the 2nd cylinder. From below you can hear that very well. What could that be, conrod bearing damage? But from the head that does not come. If the engine is warm, the knocking is gone. What consequences can a damage to the conrod bearing have? Bzw. what ads are there then? Here is a video where you can hear the knocking at the beginning. Video@Rapidshare

Which users already have experience with the LPG analge by Irmscher. Man always tells me (selnst dier kinder opel dealer you should leave your fingers away from LPG in together with Opel engines. However, this should be remedied with the Irmscher analge allegedly – is more expensive than the otherwise offered analgen but if it as alternative would help that would be good. Also with the Opel dealers in recent times you can see now more often that your Astras and Vectras with the Irmscher Offer analge for sale. As a loyal and longtime Opel driver and frequent driver it would of course be interesting to drive with LPG system. So please all come back with your experience. Thanks in advance

Hello have brought me a BDR adjustable with watch. how do I go? to the engine. C20NE with motronics 1.2.5. Eprom aerated,angapasst! Cylinder head channels extended to 40mm, valve seats to the outside.Ventile polished erl. head planned. to come to a compaction of 10,5. Fan manifold,4.2.1 with 55mm connection tube to 24V steel cat.57mmto group N. Bohnrat power tube(only because the rubber part was risked)Nass air filter.K-N. The engine is running really well, only if it was very much outside m it is a fraction of ner Secunde, like every car with the hot Lambdareglung. the system pressure is 3 bar, if I install that part, the pressure must have already 3 bar without negative pressure and it will be series already more than 3 bar. who knows itself? don’t want that I already come under serial pressure. how is the pressure series in stand? so that I have a basic setting and then can increase the stepwise. would like to see then on the role so that I can see if it is fat at vollast. I feel like he starts braking at 6000.Magersquecht? achja the camshaft is from sight with 130 Ps. so nothing world-moving. must come there with a little more petrol pressure. would be very grateful for your help. gr. armin Possmann

Hello guys, maybe someone still has an idea what you can do in order to somehow get to a culant/guarantee acceptance. to the facts. Movano is commercially used = 1day failure without Fz, without car rental = 1 day no money earned! Movano bought 2004 > 2008 various problems (electric wrongly connected and and and and)03-04/2008 – Turbocharger defective + Turbo replaced – FOH determines MOTOR flatt ( FOH tries to get 15 days new engine) + engine changed after 3 weeks (c a. 10000 Euro all together without a rental car)10-11/2008 (about 30000km since new installation) – engine makes loud noises – FOH checks and says cause: noises from the pleu bearing + repair: crankshaft (after 14 days) renewed, operating materials OIL & frost protection replaced “guarantee takeover by OPEL”01/2009 – vehicle stops on the way – ADAC pulls Fz to the FOH – FOH makes the following TECH2 test, actuator test pressure valve electr., connection valve measured, control unit measured + repair: cable interruption fixed and additionally air filter insert renewed (164,40 Euro) 07/2009 (about 80000km since new installation) – car runs unround and rusted (about 30000km since new installation) – FOH finds errors after 2-3 days = cylinder head seal and cylinder head must be replaced + after approx.14 days car finished costs 4100 Euro oil change / belt change have always been made. After consultation customer service and service manager at FOH the following result! Opel does not assume any warranty or culpability in any respect, because there is no inspection scatter! Now to my question: When 10-11/2008 the crankshaft was installed, was surely the whole engine tested, more than during an inspection? Would you have seen if there was a problem with the cylinder head? At the tests/work 01/2009 someone could have noticed that there was a problem with the cylinder head? eug already 3 weeks on the farm also the customer is addressed: “You should join the inspection immediately.” Thank you for your answers! Greetings

Hello, I have an Opel Vectra A 2.0 liter machine. I skipped the timing belt. 10 belts/tooths were gone. I then replaced the water pump and timing belts. And now it doesn’t want to start any more. The starter makes the impression as if it would have been difficult. The lamp in the car also goes out. I thought that the battery is too weak and I used another car and tried to start it with a starter. Unfortunately not possible. Then I removed the timing belt. I don’t have the alternator on it (mechanically, not a V-belt on it). But it can’t be because I have a second car, which is still running. I’m at the end. I don’t know any more. I don’t think I’ve installed the timing belt incorrectly, because it doesn’t work. At the top is a marking and at the bottom is the roll of the thorn. But without the timing belt it would have to run after all? Or is the machine flat? I have rotated at the bottom of the belt roll. I realize that it can be partly hard and partly simply rotated during idle. I also notice in one place as a swing as if a spring would hit off. I can also turn at the top of the camshaft and notice that at different positions it also spins off on its own (with force). Thank you for your support in advance.

hello, whenever you say ‘gas’ or ‘save’ in a breather, you’ll get as ‘yes, why not buy a car with the desired power’ or ‘all one chip = more covert, chip + gas is much more harmful’. as far as everything is reasonable, however, the motor around which I am concerned is a 1.6t (z16let) of opel, which is to be chipped on about 210ps/300nm. this is known to be gas-proof, but has a small space of space. and exactly in such a case one would have to get the opposite answer. the ‘high-breeded’ the engine is better for him, the better gas is for him. or: the more radical one can ‘bubble it up’. I just wanted to know if I think about the right direction. are the 225ps offered by eds in connection with a (possibly liquid) gas system, the better one can ‘bubble it up’, or is just about the same as the ‘bubble’?