Category: Opel Motors Forum

Hello have brought me a BDR adjustable with watch. how do I go? to the engine. C20NE with motronics 1.2.5. Eprom aerated,angapasst! Cylinder head channels extended to 40mm, valve seats to the outside.Ventile polished erl. head planned. to come to a compaction of 10,5. Fan manifold,4.2.1 with 55mm connection tube to 24V steel cat.57mmto group N. Bohnrat power tube(only because the rubber part was risked)Nass air filter.K-N. The engine is running really well, only if it was very much outside m it is a fraction of ner Secunde, like every car with the hot Lambdareglung. the system pressure is 3 bar, if I install that part, the pressure must have already 3 bar without negative pressure and it will be series already more than 3 bar. who knows itself? don’t want that I already come under serial pressure. how is the pressure series in stand? so that I have a basic setting and then can increase the stepwise. would like to see then on the role so that I can see if it is fat at vollast. I feel like he starts braking at 6000.Magersquecht? achja the camshaft is from sight with 130 Ps. so nothing world-moving. must come there with a little more petrol pressure. would be very grateful for your help. gr. armin Possmann

Hello guys, maybe someone still has an idea what you can do in order to somehow get to a culant/guarantee acceptance. to the facts. Movano is commercially used = 1day failure without Fz, without car rental = 1 day no money earned! Movano bought 2004 > 2008 various problems (electric wrongly connected and and and and)03-04/2008 – Turbocharger defective + Turbo replaced – FOH determines MOTOR flatt ( FOH tries to get 15 days new engine) + engine changed after 3 weeks (c a. 10000 Euro all together without a rental car)10-11/2008 (about 30000km since new installation) – engine makes loud noises – FOH checks and says cause: noises from the pleu bearing + repair: crankshaft (after 14 days) renewed, operating materials OIL & frost protection replaced “guarantee takeover by OPEL”01/2009 – vehicle stops on the way – ADAC pulls Fz to the FOH – FOH makes the following TECH2 test, actuator test pressure valve electr., connection valve measured, control unit measured + repair: cable interruption fixed and additionally air filter insert renewed (164,40 Euro) 07/2009 (about 80000km since new installation) – car runs unround and rusted (about 30000km since new installation) – FOH finds errors after 2-3 days = cylinder head seal and cylinder head must be replaced + after approx.14 days car finished costs 4100 Euro oil change / belt change have always been made. After consultation customer service and service manager at FOH the following result! Opel does not assume any warranty or culpability in any respect, because there is no inspection scatter! Now to my question: When 10-11/2008 the crankshaft was installed, was surely the whole engine tested, more than during an inspection? Would you have seen if there was a problem with the cylinder head? At the tests/work 01/2009 someone could have noticed that there was a problem with the cylinder head? eug already 3 weeks on the farm also the customer is addressed: “You should join the inspection immediately.” Thank you for your answers! Greetings

Hello, I have an Opel Vectra A 2.0 liter machine. I skipped the timing belt. 10 belts/tooths were gone. I then replaced the water pump and timing belts. And now it doesn’t want to start any more. The starter makes the impression as if it would have been difficult. The lamp in the car also goes out. I thought that the battery is too weak and I used another car and tried to start it with a starter. Unfortunately not possible. Then I removed the timing belt. I don’t have the alternator on it (mechanically, not a V-belt on it). But it can’t be because I have a second car, which is still running. I’m at the end. I don’t know any more. I don’t think I’ve installed the timing belt incorrectly, because it doesn’t work. At the top is a marking and at the bottom is the roll of the thorn. But without the timing belt it would have to run after all? Or is the machine flat? I have rotated at the bottom of the belt roll. I realize that it can be partly hard and partly simply rotated during idle. I also notice in one place as a swing as if a spring would hit off. I can also turn at the top of the camshaft and notice that at different positions it also spins off on its own (with force). Thank you for your support in advance.

hello, whenever you say ‘gas’ or ‘save’ in a breather, you’ll get as ‘yes, why not buy a car with the desired power’ or ‘all one chip = more covert, chip + gas is much more harmful’. as far as everything is reasonable, however, the motor around which I am concerned is a 1.6t (z16let) of opel, which is to be chipped on about 210ps/300nm. this is known to be gas-proof, but has a small space of space. and exactly in such a case one would have to get the opposite answer. the ‘high-breeded’ the engine is better for him, the better gas is for him. or: the more radical one can ‘bubble it up’. I just wanted to know if I think about the right direction. are the 225ps offered by eds in connection with a (possibly liquid) gas system, the better one can ‘bubble it up’, or is just about the same as the ‘bubble’?