Category: Opel Motors Forum

Hello, I wanted to screw the 6 gear F28 to the C20XE. Is this possible ? Because if you look at the translations like this, the engine will have a lighter 1-5 gear. The 6 gear is longer (for final speed). If this is done from the technical manufacturer or the gearbox fits into the cadets (C20XE). mfg.

Hello all, I’ll start from the beginning. Corsa A GSI C20XE. Drive the Corsa from 4 – 10 , end of the year then oil at the surface of the cooling water… Winter break… – Was a KS 700 he head , worried by a known head , an 859 he. – Cooling circuit washed – head changed , outlet NW taken over because of 2.5 mot. – Short test drives last month when it was dry. Everything without problems. Well. Today afternoon times on the slopes and it didn’t take long… – At the acceleration nigen was as if i was slowing down and at about 5000 revolutions a clear thrust came again. – Then I hung up and wanted to treat the candle plugs with el. spray —- it was as if there was vacuum in the lid while trying to pull off the first plug!!!—- ( I never noticed before ) – Then again test drive and it went through clean. At the same time the temperature indicator no longer went and the DZM shows almost nothing. Verbaut is a DIGI Tacho. If ever I have two hours to look for.. THANK YOU

Hello Opel CIH fans, I need some advice from you. I have a Kadett C with 2.4 CIH engine with sharp cam, shortened 3.0 suction tube and L-jetronics (grey nozzles). I have now only had the ignition reset and can’t get a problem under control. If the engine is cold it runs perfectly, it gets warm (operating temperature) then it runs quite normal in the stand and also takes on super gas, but it starts with the switching process 1. in 2. almost off and takes no more gas. I only tap the gas and the dome immediately, so I can save the engine from dying. So if the engine is to work under load it has no more steam and no more gas. What can be the reason, am now very helpless! Thank you for your help in advance Greeting Carsten

Hello, with my Meriva A 1.7 CDTI, year 2003, the workshop determined a damage of the diesel pump. Only economical way for me: get replacement pump and change itself. Have the WEB cracked already after an instruction, but find there nothing. Screwdriver experience and a pit are available, but you need special tool and special knowledge ? Greeting Uwe

Hello together, since I intend to strengthen my Corsa 1,3 CDTI a little bit I’ve stumbled a little bit in the net. I came across the side of RaceChip.de. These power boxes, according to the provider, make a lot more steam under the (diesel) boiler… In addition, the desired power increase should also be adjustable, this would also be very interesting. If one of you has a box (RaceChip Pro) installed in his CDTI and can have his positive / negative experiences here on the Clüsseln? mfG Bernd

Moin. Mal a (crazy) question: I intend to abuse an air jet engine (impeller) from the aircraft model building as a turbo replacement in my car. Have a ́97 Opel Astra X16SZR (1,6l 8V 75PS) Who has experimented with it, experiences, opinions, suggestions? Problem underpressure (important because of brake power amplifier): Does the underpressure last when I put a hose in front of the impeller or do you need an extra vacuum pump. cksensor (what a word!) on it. And how long does such an impeller last? It wasn’t designed for continuous operation.

Hello, why does Opel (or other manufacturers) not build a 5-cylinder ??? such a row engine would have to run softly, or are there too many disadvantages? LG from the beautiful Allgäu

Hello, My uncle’s car has the following problem ONLY in cold condition: It starts immediately, runs about 1 min, then suddenly runs out. Now you have to have long organs, until it starts a bit bumpy, then it runs the rest of the day without problems and pulls also quite normal. But if it stands again until it is really 100% cold, the same problem. The car was in the workshop, there it was found that the pressure sensor in the rail tube is allegedly broken. The sensor cannot be replaced individually. In addition, if you change the tube and sensor after a short time the pump would always be defective. But if you wait about 10 s after the perfect start, until the oil pressure is almost full and immediately brings the engine to approx. 2000 revolutions and stops, then after approx. 60s it starts to rumble and rattle and runs only on 2-3 paws. If you keep the notor running over the speed and can survive a few seconds, it will run as usual. If the jamming light has come, then turn it off once again, start again and start off. The problem will not occur again until the next long standstill. The downtime must be longer than 8 hours. Now the questions: 1. Can this really be on the sensor? Why should it go out if the sensor reports that k a pressure is there, but this is really a problem? 2. Why doesn’t he do this at the second start, which is still not nearly warm? So this has nothing to do with temperature, but with service life. 3. does someone know exactly the solution for this problem? 4. does it seem to actually fall the rail pressure after about 1 min, so no sensor error, but a fault of the pump? In any case, I don’t think it makes sense to replace the rail tube with sensor, since the pressure j a apparently actually falls and only stays running at high speed. But why does this fall once after a long downtime and then not again?

Hello, I woke up my C20XE from hibernation again. Engine started after the winter break… without any problems. Was satisfied. After a few days started again, let run…everything great. But if it were running then the idling became restless and stuttery. And now every time I start it the idling is very restless, motor jerks very strong, gas acceptance is also bad, but turns high, but is restless, not at full power. According to MID also runs very fat. Intake tract disassembled above (not the idle control), everything was ok. Temperature sensor sometimes plugged off… then turns up to 3000 and further. Put on again speed goes down again into restless empty run. Exchanged against another…same game. Lambda probe was renewed shortly before winter break. Ignition distributor with finger new. spark plugs new. Error memory empty. Crankshaft sensor defective? Idle control valve defective? Knock sensor defective? Will look tomorrow still the strap,evtl tooth sensor defective? Otherwise, I don’t know what to do.

Hello, I used a c20xe with 2.8 motronics to install a lighter plate-swing wheel of the older models. the engine is actually running quite well, but it vibrates more strongly than you are used to from xe. these vibrations make it a bit weak in the 5th on the track towards the end speed, I imagine. in the lower passages this is less noticeable. to check my suspicion of the unbalance in the system, I removed the pressure plate through the maintenance flap at the gearbox and pressed it by 180° the vibrating has become noticeably less, but still stronger than with other xe’s. now a question about the technology. can you actually exchange the washers cheerfully? because they can only be mounted in one position, the presumption is that they would be balanced in the production of the engine together with the crankshaft. that would mean the original combination of motor with washers would be “tailor-made”. a fine balance of the vibration Cheibe would minimize the effect, but the unbalance of the crankshaft would still be there.