Category: Opel Motors Forum

Hello dear MotorTalk community, I have an Opel Astra F cc 1.6l 71ps build year 1995 and the following problem: – As soon as I start the engine, a dark clacking starts which probably comes from the hydro thrusts because the clacking comes from above. We have changed the hydro thrusts, the timing belt, wedgery shirts and both tooth.-Ceilriehmenspanrolle, oil pump also. After everything has been changed, a new clacker, actually a brighter louder clacking also came from above (with the hydro thrusts) n) “Perhaps an oil pipe is clogged and a hydro shock can’t pull enough oil out of it? If yes, is it expensive to fix this problem?” Do you have any tips that can help me? I was with the car at a workshop that said it came from the hydro shocks although these changes were made… To fix this are several costs due, and since the dare is already older, it is not of sense to spend more money for the repair Do you have any ideas? Would you like to keep the car and not let it die? Workshop: Cars can be driven, but will eventually give up the spirit. Help? (: Thank you MfG Marco L.

Hello I intend to buy an Opel Astra Caravan 1.6 for my daughter. Is EZ 10/2005, about 60,000 km. The car has a problem, according to the seller the engine goes off as soon as it is warm, so after about 10 minutes. After a short time he should get started again, but then again and again go out. Have looked at the car so far only briefly. In cold condition it starts, runs calmly and has no problems. I then did the thing with gas and brake and in the day kil meter counters were displayed 12 errors, I could not remember all of them now. But were among other things 20100 to 20400 (o.ä) errors were probably searched but not found. The car has an additional LPG system and is due to the defect clearly cheaper than an equivalent model that is ok. The car also goes out in petrol operation, so has nothing specifically to do with the gas system. My question is whether you should buy the car and what the most expensive assuming e damage would be.

Greetings, engine of the Ascona 2.0i Kat in Kadett D, two weeks ago a cooler hose burst on the highway (premiere, my first after 20 years of driving). Tow truck, Werstatt etc., is now standing somewhere near Magdeburg. The mechanic meant because a clogged heating cooler (flow, pressure rise etc.), now he took his head down because the cylinder head seal was also through, despite immediate shutdown, and thinks: the barrel boxes must have a sharp ridge above n, but there is a radius (i.e. turning point of the piston OT), it can reassemble the engine, however, would be only a matter of time until it flies apart again. He recommends engine overhaul for around 2000€. Boah! Luckily I sat. Because the previous owner had an engine overhaul carried out, so not 800km, which I actually paid for when buying. Unfortunately again without invoice. I ask for opinions about the running bushings, why is the edge shape a problem? The piston lä What are some of the suggestions? A replacement engine would probably have similar wears and unknown km … If I had the engine done, what should be taken care of by type (note to the mechanic), what can I do if it has already been dismantled (crank shaft bearings in the same way or only insert the cam shaft from the sound so). Thanks and greeting, tata3

Hello Opel friends, I finally got to put down a flap in the exhaust system of my E-record, at least I tried it. The clattering sounded very suspicious to KAT; so once the good piece was unscrewed and I still got a whole 2 chunks of coal against it. The rest seems to be stuck in the middle silencer. So MSD has to be new, no question but what does the KAT look like? It is an old village tuner legend that the power/motor run without KAT And one even said to me that it should even be possible with a properly adjusted engine and working Lambda probe to pass the AU without KAT. What about it? I don’t need any advice about possible legal consequences, I know it is tax evasion and not an environmental price suspect ;-). But if it is already empty…. M.F.G The scrap metal fanatic

Hi, have the problem that my engine suddenly went out with the gas in the second gear (without mucking before, from now on immediately). He also did not jump again for the first time. When he jumped again he ran in the stand gas nicely round ond also toured with a little gas (also to the limiter if you wanted), but if you have pulled up the gas tap now no matter in which speed range he tosssed off without faults and without jerking ignitions or the like. Motor c20xe from Calibra In the cadet E, 2.5 motronic. Since the engine should be made anyway with its mileage, since the oil pump was slowly going to say goodbye, I quickly installed another one. Problem is the error has remained there. I have already tested all parts that in some way influence the engine in its run, exchanged and everything that is installed and was tested in a 2nd vehicle. Tech1 says everything nice, just like the 2nd Fzg. the problem is that the engine is now I have tried everything that you gleube I can try by now Hangs it on the canister since I finally suspected the fuel, but it wasn’t. So now he gets so much spits that he strangles if he still ran and meanwhile directly drains. so now to the finished work: 1 simply everything measured with wire harness under load, all encoders, gasoline history etc. 2 steurzeiten tested, everything is true flammable funk e is also on time and also quite painful xd 3 motor wire harness separated from the carros series wire harness and run without it and also the wire harness already exchanged (vorischtsahlber, man nie kein) so I tried everything that came to mind and what if you despair is also so everything in the head. Until now nobody could help me (no lay). I am so crazy tip thankable for every still so reasonable since I think with reason and logical MfG Atze is no longer able to move on to the engine at the moment.

Hi all together, the other day a buddy asked me if I could help him since his GSI Kadett didn’t start. Since I’ve already had a lot of experience with remodeling etc. I looked at it all the time. First I noticed that with OT position on the crankshaft I could never get the cam on position. Can turn as often as I wanted…if the crankshaft was on OT, the cam was about 14 o’clock instead of 12 to the notch???!!! I thought that the timing belt might have skipped and re-set the OT. Nock on notch 12 o’clock and the crankshaft notch on the needle that is mounted on the engine block. When we wanted to do a test run, it sounded like the starter was running empty without load. I knew that couldn’t be right away…… I quickly thought of the white marking on the tooth strap… someone had to w now my problem… since I would like to adjust the engine correctly, I have the problem that I can’t rely on the notch of the cam, because this position seems to be wrong. Can someone possibly show me a photo like the nock has to stand so that it is in OT properly? Will then proceed so that I put the crankshaft on position because it was correct and try to find the old position again with the help of a picture. Or does someone have n och another suggestion how I could set this right without respecting the notch of the cam??? Thanks in advance… ;o)

Hi @ all Would you like to know if the petrol pump can adjust, that the petrol pressure is not the right one anymore. Can you measure it anyhow in a certain time how many liters? An engine does not start or almost start and drains again and again. Have everything checked … spark wet candles… With startpilot it runs once and goes out again. Funke has been checked as said… Error codes are also not available so that it might be the throttle valve. And still what ..if the fuse was defective, then nothing would be possible, wouldn’t it? The petrol relay also clacks at ignition so that I ruled it out.

Hello people, today on a nice sunny day I lead with my B Corsa motor C20XE 2liter 16V 150PS (well there are already more 😉 ) such a who around. Suddenly something clapped in the engine room (No MKL) blirb immediately stand to see what it can be, unfortunately not found. Now I let him tow it in my hall to look for the error there. It clatters loudly (tack tack tack ……) sounds like it’s close to the throttle flap or below he could also be the hydros or anything else. But sounds rather like it’s coming from the suction manifold, is there anything there ????? Can someone help me or give tips ?? will disassemble the engine tomorrow 🙁 Would be grateful for fast and any help MFG

Since I am now intensively concerned with the whole topic of RPF, but unfortunately only have the X20DTH as Euro2 engine, I am interested in how I get the engine on D3. I have read in the TIS that this conversion is possible. Definitely I know that the metal AGR has to be replaced for a plastic one, because the plastic AGR has a faster response time. What else needs to be changed to get the engine on D3 and thus on a green badge?

Hi guys, a few days ago I broke up my C 16NZ engine with a friend of mine, because we wanted to change the cylinder head gasket, because he lost water. When we had disassembled the engine, we also found the place where the ZKD was broken. Unfortunately we saw something not so pleasant then. 🙁 On all 4 cylinders are about 3-5 vertical bars, of which 2 are so deep that you notice them with your finger and stick with the nail in it. The Freun d from me, the car mechanic, said that he must have run hot and therefore the bars come. He then meant that it is actually a motor damage and I should get a replacement motor. I am looking for it, but unfortunately find nothing clever in my vicinity and if then only very expensive. The buddy of mine then meant that one could plan the head and assemble it again. He means that it can be that he can run then 2 years until problems can be solved. ngen or even after 2 months problems occur. I am not sure now what I should do ?!? The engine ran about 160tkm and actually always handled him quite carefully and Oel did not consume any. Did the car actually want to drive only 1.5 years. Hope you can help me further. Thank you