Category: Opel Motors Forum

About three weeks ago the engine just didn’t want to start any more. After several organs I managed to get it. It went well over a week then and I classified it as a unique Macke. But after 8 days again the same. This time we could only let the vehicle roll down the mountain and thus make the engine run. Today it happened for the third time and a friend recommended this page to me. I intended to get the car to Opelwekstatt to brin. I would like to thank you for your reply A.Kirchhof.

According to Opel, GM-LL-A-025 is for petrol engines GM-LL-B-025 is for diesel engines But does anyone know the exact differences in the test tests of GM-LL-A-025 and GM-LL-B-025? The Opel specifications are nowhere to be found (all ACEA requirements, however, I have in detail). 5W-40 GM-LL-B-025 costs me as a pure oil change just 1/2 of 5W-30 GM-LL-A-025. It is obvious to have this in the petrol engine. Finally, according to ACEA A3 is also approved for petrol engines. Also the viscosity would be right according to the service booklet. An oil change with oil (Shell Helix), oil filter and work would cost me only 42 Euro with GM-LL-B-02. With GM-LL-A-025, however, would be due 87 Euro. In addition, there are also Oele, which meet both specifications (but not in the workshop I commissioned).

Hello! My name is Dominic and I’m new here. Find this forum really class, because there are many competent people who answer here. Now to my problem. I drive a Kadett C where I have now changed the engine from C20ne to 20sight.(But are the same blocks) Now I noticed during the timing belt installation that I can pull out the crankshaft about 1mm. The engine was definitely running well before and did not make any noises, so I don’t know as well as I now Is it to be expected that the crankshaft bearings are over or is the game perhaps in the approved tolerance range and the shaft adjusts itself, so to speak? Would be great if someone could help me there, so that I can not get the engine out for free again. (With the Kadett the axle is in the way from below, so can hardly be fixed in built-in condition) Mfg Dominic

hello a question about the phase I can install the so…because I have a group a of bastuck with a 100 plates and a simplified swing wheel… without having to put everything to the vote again??? knows the 185ps you will promise with certainty not reached I have read nice more often but 170 ps should be in at the eds phase 3 I say and there the 850euro don’t sound bad… ohso my head has been planned already but can not tell how much could I de r previous owner also don’t say…but with the shock waves I shouldn’t get any problems or? and how much should I reach then with the product what I already have in power??? and just a question afterwards) how much compression has your xe measured with me today am on all 4 cylinders on 13.7bar come think times with the worth I can live quite well mfg

hi, after motor change x16xel for x16xel the motor runs pretty bad, the motor control light goes off briefly at start and then on again. error codes: P0335 wrong speed signal P0340 camshaft sensor signal faulty P0351 EST line ignition coil 1+4 voltage high P0351 EST line ignition coil 1+4 voltage low P0352 EST line ignition coil 2+3 voltage high P0352 EST line ignition coil 2+3 voltage low P0400 linear AGR system P0412 secondary air intake valve voltage hoc h P0412 Secondary air inlet valve Voltage low P1405 Linear AGR position 400 & 1405 should still be from the old motor because I had just cleaned the agr 351 & 352 certainly come from the ignition plug test and pull off cables 412 – the relay I have retrofitted, had to take the other suction bridge (above) so should also not be up to date. stay 340 & 335 I checked the order of the ignition plugs again, camshafts & crankshaft sensor replaced , the cable to the camshaft sensor measured , position of the crankshaft disc , this could already be changed , this could be due to the timing belt voltage ? what can I test?

Again it is about the C20NE Turbo Kit or extended for the X20SEThis should be a purely informative topic and for those who have times bizzl craft mood. It would be nice if some questions could be answered and that The topic is NOT pulled back into the dirt. 1. I have read through all the topics it found in the search 2. Please do not answer such answers as “Build yourself a LET” or “That brings nix” Certainly one can be divided about it, fact is but that it works facts: > Source of supply e.g. www.HG-Motorsport.de or own building > Price varies depending on craftsmanship i.e. depending on how much you can do or dare to do yourself on the engine. Questions or frequently asked and never answered correctly : > How do I get the part registered? (because not everyone lives in the immediate vicinity of Lübeck) > Expert report? > Does the exhaust gas standard remain? > Control unit adjustment required or not, if yes WHAT WO? (because not every r lives near Lübeck) > Up to which charging pressure can be driven with original parts? > Stability of the engine with original parts? > Does KIT also work with the X20SE? Speak to the successor of the C20NE only with e.g. exhaust gas recirculation etc, installed in the Omega B and Frontera Useful links of HG (approx.1MB per PDF): http://www.hg-motorsport.de/…/turboinfoc20ne.pdfhttp://www.hg-motorsport.de/…/katalog_kruemmer.pdf It would be nice if some questions could be answered and the theme is NOT pulled back into the dirt. MfG Toni

Hello I have already written here several times some will probably remember it was about FC 31 and 94 that the box runs only on 3 cylinders sometimes….. I changed the KWS and today I also installed the new distributor had the presumption that the Hallsensor was defective….. yes everything went together and after 2-3 km nothing ran only on 3 cylinders takes no gas on had to play a lot with the clutch so I still got home now but found every time I pull down the candle plug from 1 cylinder there is an overpressure and hissed that I have had now 3 times of course the candles exchanged over and over again on the 1 pot now is my presumption that in the cylinder head what is not right maybe a crack ???? have really no more buck on the box has cost me now so much money and now bring in the workshop and that surely also long and expensive fangs ???? has one of you an idea od he would have had such a thing before would have been very grateful about your help mfg Stefan

Hello, I was laughing at the used Astra F with gas system and C16nz.. Engine ran already on purchase only on 3 cylinders, and had oil in the water,I actually thought that this would be only the ZK seal… But a mechanic measured with me today times compression… Cylinder, from the timing belt, 4, 2 and 1 all have between 11 and 12 bar, cylinder 3 only about 2 bar… Engine runs as said only on 3 cylinders, but from about 4000 turns again calmly, and then pulls also properly. abe r whether this is due to the speed or because the cylinder is working again I don’t know… What is more likely that the valves from the cylinder are broken or the piston rings????? car has run about 100tkm with gas….

Hi guys. I’m now going with my Y16XE to the 200. I’m either thinking about buying a new vectra again (and in case of overtaking my engine general). I’ve heard that so many times from others, who then easily managed 300TK…. I asked the FOH about this (at 2en). But then they just looked at me asking what I want…. And referred to the new car corner. My question: Where can you do something like this and how expensive is that? I’d like to know before I switch everything from the throttle cap to the piston ring on my own.

Hi I have the following problem with my B Corsa 1.4 16V Year of construction 1996 126.000km – Burns a lot of oil ( 2 -3 L to about 400km) but only a week before he has already swallowed en bissel oil there I have ma every month 0.5L after tilted – engine jerks when giving gas approx. 2 weeks (times more times less) – hardly suit – Since Friday he runs in my opinion only on 3 instead of on 4 cylinders, but there is no expert the engine noise has changed anyway hears a n wien Tractor. I once looked in the cooling water and on the lid of the oil whether there should be such foam deposited a sign for a defective cylinder head gasket but could not discover anything. I nevertheless suspected the cylinder head gasket. If the gasket is what can you expect so pricey? What else could it be? gruss Fritte